New 100 series owner. What is this part called and how do I fix the leak (1 Viewer)

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You are welcome - although @Ayune deserves credit for suggesting it first!
Ayune said:
Valve cover bolts may just be loose, a common issue. Snug them down gently with a 10mm, clean area and re-check in a while.
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poetdereves said:
Sweet. Thanks for that techstream link @Jram100 . So, when I get it, what exactly am I looking for? Are there other issues with the P0420 code that will keep me from needing catalytic converters?

Also, props to @ClassyJalopy for the idea to just snug the bolts on the VCG. A couple of the lower end on the passenger side were not even finger tight. Tightened them up on both sides, cleaned up as much of the junk as I could, and I will watch it for a while.
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poetdereves said:
Sweet. Thanks for that techstream link @Jram100 . So, when I get it, what exactly am I looking for? Are there other issues with the P0420 code that will keep me from needing catalytic converters?

Also, props to @ClassyJalopy for the idea to just snug the bolts on the VCG. A couple of the lower end on the passenger side were not even finger tight. Tightened them up on both sides, cleaned up as much of the junk as I could, and I will watch it for a while.
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Just make sure you don't torque those valve cover bolts like you are torqueing any other 10 mm bolt. too much force can break those "ears" on the valve cover. If you plan to replace those, use OEM and here is a small trick I used to do: Apply a very small film of FIPG to the bottom side of the gasket ONLY along the bottom (exhaust manifold side) and two sides (T-belt cover and fire wall sides) where most of oil starts seeping (toyota is the best FIPG: and can be stored for years when properly capped + zip-lock bag).
 
poetdereves said:
Ok. Next topic. Check engine light was on for a P0420 code. Thought it may be able to be fixed by changing the O2 sensors. Swapped all four, drove 15 miles, and the light is back on. Catalytic converters? Have any of you had to have them replaced? Easy to do DIY?
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I had something like that happen to my 04LC and changed all four sensors. No luck. I started pouring fuel injector cleaner into gas tank before a long road trip (twice) and CEL light went away . The mileage was about 90k and 4 years ago. This summer I got CEL again and put in some fuel injector cleaner. Filled about half tank and it went away again. It's been about a few months and no CEL, but I don't drive this vehicle daily. Just my experience, info that might help you.
 
Since I am a new owner and want to get everything back to baseline I am planning on doing all fluids over the weekend. I made a short list, but is there anything anyone notices off the top of their head that they'd check right after purchase?

  • Oil and filter changed
  • Tires rotated
  • Driveshaft lubricated and bolts torqued
  • Check diff oil
  • Check transmission fluid
  • Check transfer case oil
  • Check brake fluid
  • Check brake pads and rotors
  • Check coolant
  • Check power steering fluid
  • Check washer fluid
 
Fluids are always good to replace if you don’t know how long they’ve been in the 100. Timing belt and all the things involved in that would be next if that’s unknown. Timing belt would also make you replace a good amount of coolant.

Rubber parts are also on the list as they get old and dry rotted. Did you check your heater Tees? Quick easy job and a known failure point.
 
NE Snowman said:
Fluids are always good to replace if you don’t know how long they’ve been in the 100. Timing belt and all the things involved in that would be next if that’s unknown. Timing belt would also make you replace a good amount of coolant.

Rubber parts are also on the list as they get old and dry rotted. Did you check your heater Tees? Quick easy job and a known failure point.
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Radiator is new with fresh red fluid. Timing belt was done at 153k and I have 222k now, so I still have a while. heater tees and heater hoses are new as well. Most of the control arm bushing and ball joints look like they need some work.
 
418zltNLnfL._AC_.jpg


My go to when p0420 comes for a visit..
 
If I get a fuel cleaner and it works, do I actually need to reset the CEL or will it go off on its own?
 
poetdereves said:
Since I am a new owner and want to get everything back to baseline I am planning on doing all fluids over the weekend. I made a short list, but is there anything anyone notices off the top of their head that they'd check right after purchase?

  • Oil and filter changed
  • Tires rotated
  • Driveshaft lubricated and bolts torqued
  • Check diff oil
  • Check transmission fluid
  • Check transfer case oil
  • Check brake fluid
  • Check brake pads and rotors
  • Check coolant
  • Check power steering fluid
  • Check washer fluid
Click to expand...
Make sure you understand the unique procedure for checking your brake fluid, so you don't over fill it.
 
poetdereves said:
Since I am a new owner and want to get everything back to baseline I am planning on doing all fluids over the weekend. I made a short list, but is there anything anyone notices off the top of their head that they'd check right after purchase?

  • Oil and filter changed
  • Tires rotated
  • Driveshaft lubricated and bolts torqued
  • Check diff oil
  • Check transmission fluid
  • Check transfer case oil
  • Check brake fluid
  • Check brake pads and rotors
  • Check coolant
  • Check power steering fluid
  • Check washer fluid
Click to expand...
You prob already know this but just in case for the power steering fluid, what you’ll actually need for that system will be automatic transmission fluid, prob dex III or whatever your manual states

Edit: jus noticed you replaced PS pump hopefully the correct ATF was used to refill
 
Last edited:
Ok. I don’t notice any more weeping from the valve cover on the passenger side, but I’m still getting a collection of oil right at the flywheel window. I attached a pic of a mess I see on the drivers side right above the front corner of the oil pan. What would be above that that may be leaking? From what I can see it doesn’t look like there’s any weeping from the drivers side valve covers.

2AE8AC4C-EBC8-4C57-B285-65AD45A4DFB9.jpeg
 
poetdereves said:
If I get a fuel cleaner and it works, do I actually need to reset the CEL or will it go off on its own?
Click to expand...
I believe you have to reset it. If you don't have a OBD II code reader now is the best time to buy one to reset it. Will work for most cars after 1995.
Another option is disconnect the battery.
 
archie said:
I believe you have to reset it. If you don't have a OBD II code reader now is the best time to buy one to reset it. Will work for most cars after 1995.
Another option is disconnect the battery.
Click to expand...
Or swing by any auto parts store and use their loaner code reader.
 
The tough to reach VC bolts on the driver's side closest to the cabin were loose as well. Tightened everything up and hoping they help seal the leak. Used more Purple Power degreaser and cleaned up a ton. Day by day figuring it out.

I have some Berryman fuel injector cleaner in the tank now. Mixed the bottle in the last quarter of my tank. Once I hit empty I will reset the code and see what happens.

Have any of you actually coughed up the funds and replaced the cat? My local shop quoted me $1,600 to replace the driver's side with a brand new one. If fuel cleaner is only temporary I may just go ahead and have it replaced.

Also, all my bulbs are LED, so the warning light on the dash for taillights being out is on. I tried to search, but it doesn't seem like anyone has a fix for it except swapping back to original style bulbs.
 
Anyone know what this goes to? I am assuming it was leftover from the previous owner removing the AHC.

FullSizeR.jpg
 
poetdereves said:
Anyone know what this goes to? I am assuming it was leftover from the previous owner removing the AHC.

View attachment 3226457
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Looks like a breather tube. Hard to tell from the picture, but I think it's for your rear differential and should be connected to a little nipple on top. You will want to clean it out before reconnecting it.
 
Eyedaho said:
Looks like a breather tube. Hard to tell from the picture, but I think it's for your rear differential and should be connected to a little nipple on top. You will want to clean it out before reconnecting it.
Click to expand...
Correct that’s the rear differential housing breather. The one-way valve cap on the other end of that tube is the giveaway.
 
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