Doing a hydro-boost - what else should I replace while I'm in there? (1 Viewer)

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Jun 6, 2013
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Hey all,
1997 FZJ80. Booster is going/gone, as evidenced by a hard pedal and very little braking force to the point that I don't feel safe driving it. Given the cost of a new vac booster, I've been in touch with VanCo to get a hydroboost kit from them for the truck. As of today, the truck is running factory brakes, factory steering pump, and has a 2.5" OME lift that the PO put on it. While I'm doing the hydroboost, I'm also planning to install a Wit's End power steering cooler and replacing the soft lines to account for the increased pressure and the unknown history of the current lines. I'm leaning towards these folks for lines, but haven't bought yet - 1993-1997 Landcruiser 80 Extended Lifted Stainless Steel Brake Lines FZJ80 LX450 - https://xtremeoverland.com/stainless-steel-brake-lines/

My question is, what else should I plan on doing to maximize my time? Should I look at hard brake lines too? Rebuild/replace calipers and other brake hardware? Etc.

Specifically for the folks that have done this before @baldilocks and the like, any thoughts? Your thread specifically gave me the confidence to go for the hydroboost in the first place.

Thanks!
 
Install a new LSPV ans a LSPV arm rebuild kit. Hard lines should be fine. As far as power steering hoses, you will need hoses to go from the pump high pressure side to the booster and then from the booster to the high pressure side of the box. AN fittings would be a nice way to make the high pressure hoses.
 
Install a new LSPV ans a LSPV arm rebuild kit. Hard lines should be fine. As far as power steering hoses, you will need hoses to go from the pump high pressure side to the booster and then from the booster to the high pressure side of the box. AN fittings would be a nice way to make the high pressure hoses.
Nice, thanks. I'm waiting on the PS Cooler to show up, but I assume I'll still need all those hoses....and about a quart more PS fluid. Any tips on where to find a rebuild kit, or are they easy to find?
 
Don’t let them talk you into a 1 1/8” bore MC. Make them include the 1 1/16” bore. Brake pedal feel is way too stiff. I will be swapping this out when I get to my larger reservoir I have had for quite a while now. I have yet to see anyone here or anywhere for that matter go with a 1 1/8 bore.

Also watch the piston extension if you go Wilwood MC. I had to slightly shave mine. You will know immediately if issues as the brakes will lock up on you fairly quick and not release u less you open a bleeder valve at one of the calipers.

Look local for the hydro lines. I had an issue with one and wish I did the entire system locally.

Do the steering pump also when in there. Expect the booster to take from the steering. I’m running 37’s tho but also like the stiff steering.

I would replace all soft brake likes and go stainless and do calipers if you don’t know the history. Just my .02 but not sure necessary.

I’m not a big fan of the “T” in their design and also another reason I’m going with the larger reservoir. I think it is restricting the flow but no proof.

No regrets here and the company is very helpful. Brakes here are amazing but I went way above and beyond just the booster.
 
Ls430 vacuum booster, no needs any modifications for installation.
Works 60% better than stock
35D4285B-A9DD-4DAA-8C1C-98C9B5492E8E.jpeg
CFDBD523-B947-4A9F-8B04-DA22E0735CBC.jpeg
 
Don’t let them talk you into a 1 1/8” bore MC. Make them include the 1 1/16” bore. Brake pedal feel is way too stiff. I will be swapping this out when I get to my larger reservoir I have had for quite a while now. I have yet to see anyone here or anywhere for that matter go with a 1 1/8 bore.

Also watch the piston extension if you go Wilwood MC. I had to slightly shave mine. You will know immediately if issues as the brakes will lock up on you fairly quick and not release u less you open a bleeder valve at one of the calipers.

Look local for the hydro lines. I had an issue with one and wish I did the entire system locally.

Do the steering pump also when in there. Expect the booster to take from the steering. I’m running 37’s tho but also like the stiff steering.

I would replace all soft brake likes and go stainless and do calipers if you don’t know the history. Just my .02 but not sure necessary.

I’m not a big fan of the “T” in their design and also another reason I’m going with the larger reservoir. I think it is restricting the flow but no proof.

No regrets here and the company is very helpful. Brakes here are amazing but I went way above and beyond just the booster.
I really appreciate all the input! Always good to get the perspective of someone who's dealt with the company before. Can I ask what your issue with the hydro lines was?
 
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Hey all,
1997 FZJ80. Booster is going/gone, as evidenced by a hard pedal and very little braking force to the point that I don't feel safe driving it. Given the cost of a new vac booster, I've been in touch with VanCo to get a hydroboost kit from them for the truck. As of today, the truck is running factory brakes, factory steering pump, and has a 2.5" OME lift that the PO put on it. While I'm doing the hydroboost, I'm also planning to install a Wit's End power steering cooler and replacing the soft lines to account for the increased pressure and the unknown history of the current lines. I'm leaning towards these folks for lines, but haven't bought yet - 1993-1997 Landcruiser 80 Extended Lifted Stainless Steel Brake Lines FZJ80 LX450 - https://xtremeoverland.com/stainless-steel-brake-lines/

My question is, what else should I plan on doing to maximize my time? Should I look at hard brake lines too? Rebuild/replace calipers and other brake hardware? Etc.

Specifically for the folks that have done this before @baldilocks and the like, any thoughts? Your thread specifically gave me the confidence to go for the hydroboost in the first place.

Thanks!
Hello, I see no reason to replace the hard lines unless they are corroded from road salt. Later on I installed a PSC fluid reservoir when I did hydro assist for the steering. The res has two return ports so the hydro booster has its own dedicated port. You can tee the booster return into the steering return from the cooler but it doesn’t work as well. If I stepped in the brakes and needed to steer simultaneously I realized a “bump” feel in the steering wheel. This was nit all the time nor was it a deal beaker. I’m just saying that having a return port dedicated to the res dedicated to the booster is nice.
 
I really appreciate all the input! Always good to get the perspective of someone who's dealt with the company before. Can I ask what your issue with the hydro lines was?
I went the stainless lines they offer. Cindy should warn you but they don't cut these to length if you go with them. I assume the standard lines would be the same.
So with that said, they offer compression fittings you will wrench tight on one end so you can cut to length to fit your application. The fitting I made leaked slightly and I'm glad it did as I decided to go local and get a good solid professionally made line with compression fitting tool. The local shop was much cheaper and he made the lines with the exact fittings(straight vs. 90 vs. banjo) and exact length I wanted, he clocked each end as requested and I have the piece of mind they are never going to leak in the middle of nowhere(excellent build quality). Cindy will confirm fitting types for you.

Couple more things I forgot to mention.

- Get plenty of brake fluid ( I used DOT 3 Wilwood due to MC/ Calipers) and GM power steering fluid(see their recommendation), NOT ATF(I'm sure this will make heads spin here...)
- Read up quite a bit on bleeding the hydro system. I found it worked best to fill reservoir turn steering clock to clock (5-10 times), repeat fill and steering until fluid stops dropping. Install reservoir cap(never turn engine over with this off!!!) pull coil wire so engine doesn't start and turn engine over a few times. pull cap and repeat the fill, stop to stop wheel process. then repeat the engine crank. Repeat, repeat, repeat(they provide more detail on what to look for). I later found I initially installed the "T" incorrect and with the return from the booster to reservoir at the base of the "t" fitting and not as shown and couldn't get the system correctly air free with what I think was 100 tries.... After rotating this as shown it worked after a few cycles. I still think this "T" design restricts flow, the OEM reservoir is too small and a new larger tank I got will remove the "T" and flow the fluid the tank for better over all flow, but yet to be tested(see baldilocks note above, I agree with this but using the system as provided to date).
1672937644997.png

- Pay attention to their flow chart provided and remember you will clock the booster 180. You also have a remote reservoir obviously so this adds an additional line, I would replace these lines when there also if the Witt's kit isn't already. Good time to do this.
- The brake pedal rod they provided me was too short and did not work(pin hole would not line up). A quick call to Cindy, she overnighted a longer bolt. Sorry, couldn't find detail on this. It may be on my build thread or the baldilocks hydro boost thread. Maybe they corrected this :meh:
- If you keep the OEM tank, consider replacing the cap, if not already leaking it will likely be soon due to age. I would save your $$ and get by then go with the PSC tank personally. Depends on your budget. I will try to sell mine once I finally get to my reservoir(PSC)/ MC(1 1/16) conversion.
- Any ??? don't be shy and contact Cindy. 5 star customer service. Remember, they are not Land Cruiser specific so the answer you get may net be correct to your application. Her and her husband are very knowledgeable though.
 
I went the stainless lines they offer. Cindy should warn you but they don't cut these to length if you go with them. I assume the standard lines would be the same.
So with that said, they offer compression fittings you will wrench tight on one end so you can cut to length to fit your application. The fitting I made leaked slightly and I'm glad it did as I decided to go local and get a good solid professionally made line with compression fitting tool. The local shop was much cheaper and he made the lines with the exact fittings(straight vs. 90 vs. banjo) and exact length I wanted, he clocked each end as requested and I have the piece of mind they are never going to leak in the middle of nowhere(excellent build quality). Cindy will confirm fitting types for you.

Couple more things I forgot to mention.

- Get plenty of brake fluid ( I used DOT 3 Wilwood due to MC/ Calipers) and GM power steering fluid(see their recommendation), NOT ATF(I'm sure this will make heads spin here...)
- Read up quite a bit on bleeding the hydro system. I found it worked best to fill reservoir turn steering clock to clock (5-10 times), repeat fill and steering until fluid stops dropping. Install reservoir cap(never turn engine over with this off!!!) pull coil wire so engine doesn't start and turn engine over a few times. pull cap and repeat the fill, stop to stop wheel process. then repeat the engine crank. Repeat, repeat, repeat(they provide more detail on what to look for). I later found I initially installed the "T" incorrect and with the return from the booster to reservoir at the base of the "t" fitting and not as shown and couldn't get the system correctly air free with what I think was 100 tries.... After rotating this as shown it worked after a few cycles. I still think this "T" design restricts flow, the OEM reservoir is too small and a new larger tank I got will remove the "T" and flow the fluid the tank for better over all flow, but yet to be tested(see baldilocks note above, I agree with this but using the system as provided to date).
View attachment 3211084
- Pay attention to their flow chart provided and remember you will clock the booster 180. You also have a remote reservoir obviously so this adds an additional line, I would replace these lines when there also if the Witt's kit isn't already. Good time to do this.
- The brake pedal rod they provided me was too short and did not work(pin hole would not line up). A quick call to Cindy, she overnighted a longer bolt. Sorry, couldn't find detail on this. It may be on my build thread or the baldilocks hydro boost thread. Maybe they corrected this :meh:
- If you keep the OEM tank, consider replacing the cap, if not already leaking it will likely be soon due to age. I would save your $$ and get by then go with the PSC tank personally. Depends on your budget. I will try to sell mine once I finally get to my reservoir(PSC)/ MC(1 1/16) conversion.
- Any ??? don't be shy and contact Cindy. 5 star customer service. Remember, they are not Land Cruiser specific so the answer you get may net be correct to your application. Her and her husband are very knowledgeable though.
You're awesome, thanks for all the tips. I'll make sure to read through your build thread as well. I am on a budget, but I may just spring for the PSC reservoir now and be one-and-done.
 
i know most said about the same thing but i will again say now is the time to check everything.

if you wanted to ditch the LSPV or ABS its a great time. replace the rubber lines with braided and extended ones. check all your calipers and replace them if needed. the system is already open so might as well inspect and replace everything needed so you dont need to bleed it out again for a while.
 
Are you replacing the master cylinder and reservoir with ls430 components as well, or just the booster?
I replace both. But if your master cylinder has 2 bolt flange, you can mount stock
 
I replace both. But if your master cylinder has 2 bolt flange, you can mount stock
Awesome, thanks! This seems like a great alternative that doesn’t require having to mess with the power steering. Is there a specific year range of ls430 boosters I should be looking at? Oh, and does anyone know what bore size is? I know the t100 swap has been popular, but some have reported pedal feel might not be as desirable, but I really don’t know.
 
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Awesome, thanks! This seems like a great alternative that doesn’t require having to mess with the power steering. Is there a specific year range of ls430 boosters I should be looking at?
all years are same
 

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