What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (18 Viewers)

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Who knew a single ARB CKMA12 compressor would have enough beans to loosen the pinion nut on the rear axle...
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I counted how many turns to get the nut off. 8 2/3 rotations. The rear pinion seal has been weeping so I decided to replace it while the driveshaft was out.
 
Hello everyone just picked up my first 100 series! Have had one in the family for a while always wanted my own to do more wheeling. I got a 2000 Landcruiser with a lemon buyback from 2004. The previous owner held it and serviced it for 17 years. Got new cats for the car since they were stolen and have already removed the running boards. Nice to finally be a member!
 
Hello everyone just picked up my first 100 series! Have had one in the family for a while always wanted my own to do more wheeling. I got a 2000 Landcruiser with a lemon buyback from 2004. The previous owner held it and serviced it for 17 years. Got new cats for the car since they were stolen and have already removed the running boards. Nice to finally be a member!
Welcome! And definitely post pictures of your new ride.
 
Moved from SoCal to Virginia in the Shenandoah Valley last year. Got my truck treated with a rust prevention coating called PFC (Protection First Class). Its a lanolin based coating. I saw the results on a local suburban that was treated with this 5 years ago and then got a touch up once every other year and there was not a spot of rust on the undercarriage. And in the words of a VDOT employee I talked with "we salt the hell out of these roads in the winter". I just had it done but the results look solid. I'll keep updating after the season.
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Hello everyone just picked up my first 100 series! Have had one in the family for a while always wanted my own to do more wheeling. I got a 2000 Landcruiser with a lemon buyback from 2004. The previous owner held it and serviced it for 17 years. Got new cats for the car since they were stolen and have already removed the running boards. Nice to finally be a member!
Im curious about the lemon buyback. Any idea?
 
Was too cheap to buy a fridge slide. Made one myself from left over plywood, and a couple of Home Depot runs.

It slides and tilt. The gas struts basically slows down the tilt.

I basically copy the design from another company who makes this kind of fridge slide.

All the extra space below the fridge is for my gfs feet. We can now sleep comfortably.
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Got the oil pan stud that I broke months ago removed finally, replacing it with an OEM oil pan stud. Tried the NAPA alternative but my local store said they don’t have it and partsouq.com says it’s unavailable. Here’s the part number:
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Took a chance on the ARB protection steps ( ARB 4413260 ) fitting an AHC LX470 since there was conflicting information from ARB. They do not, at least not 'out of the box'. A bit of cutting on a bracket got the passenger side on, but the driver's side is going to be a bit more work. As in a lot more. I'm holding off on getting the fender rails until I see if I can get the driver's side on. This is definitely one of the dumber things I've done.

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Here's a picture of the running boards/steps (driver side) since it's impossible to find one online.

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Took a chance on the ARB protection steps ( ARB 4413260 ) fitting an AHC LX470 since there was conflicting information from ARB. They do not, at least not 'out of the box'. A bit of cutting on a bracket got the passenger side on, but the driver's side is going to be a bit more work. As in a lot more. I'm holding off on getting the fender rails until I see if I can get the driver's side on. This is definitely one of the dumber things I've done.

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Here's a picture of the running boards/steps (driver side) since it's impossible to find one online.

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Thank you for your service. I have listed after the fender rails for years, but all the research points to the fender rails being only compatible with the ARB steps, which aren't AHC compatible 😞
 
Right? Those damn fender rails are too sexy.

The ARB fitment guide listed 2 sets but only one had the 'no worky on AHC' note which is why I rolled the dice. The passenger side just needed the upraised L material cut off to slide under the accumulator towards the rear. On the driver's side the middle support bracket will have to be cut off entirely and the rear bracket similarly trimmed. Cutting the middle bracket doesn't seem like a big deal since all the 'AHC compatible' options just change from 3 supports to 2 and the tube isn't going to bend under stepping-on weight*.

There's an open area further down where the bracket could be mounted, though. Mounting the bracket there and then welding an extension/connector is one of the options I'm considering. Another problem is that there just isn't space to move around the U-bolt at the back end because of all the AHC stuff. If you can work it under the hard lines, you can't pull it back far enough to feed through the bracket holes. One of the options I'm looking at there is to use two bolts instead of the U-bolt which I can feed from the outer side where there's more room to work. The two bolt method will mean I need to make a sturdy mounting plate for the inner rail for the bolts to secure to.

It'll be at least a week, though, since I'll be on vacation and I left the truck up at the shop. I feel like it's doable, but you've gotta want those rails pretty bad and be willing to take on a bit of a project. Here's what I mean by cutting the rear bracket (passenger side):

* Acknowledging that we all accept these aren't sliders.


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Mounted my old Garmin GPS. I got this unit back in 2008ish and paid for the lifetime maps so until it dies it will be home on my dash. It is due for another map update which I will be doing before we go on a road trip next week. I don’t use it for anything other than speed, what road I’m on and elevation but in a pinch it would still work for directions.

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Changed my oil today. I had been going 10k between changes but decided to backtrack a bit and start doing it sooner.

I also shot some lubricant into my steering wheel/clockspring to hopefully get rid of the grinding that happens when its cold out.

And lastly, my front passenger door lock starting making the awful noise that happens when the motor housing/clamshell isn't properly closed up and secured, so I got in there and did what I could. Seems to be fixed, at least for now. Even though it has been a few years since I last got in there to repair the actuators, I did it so many times (removing the door panel in particular) that I think I could do it with my eyes closed.
 
I did a slooooooow gear oil change at 0°F after changing the pinion seal and replacing the pinion flange that had a deep groove worn in it.
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I did a slooooooow gear oil change at 0°F after changing the pinion seal and replacing the pinion flange that had a deep groove worn in it.
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Was the seal leaking a lot or a little ? Curious to know how much encouragement the flange required to come off- if you had to use a puller? Solid spacer or crush sleeve? What was your final torque setting 181ft lbs or lighter considering the crush sleeve?

I’m about to swap out my (rock damaged) companion flange this week. Taking notes😉
 
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I've been working on these replacement seat back nets for a bit now, they're available for 80 and 100 series. The ones in my 100 were so bad the PO cut them out, sparked an idea and now I'm ready to share them with you guys. My first batch has been sold and shipped to some awesome cruiserheads throughout the country. I upgraded to a supporting vendor, made a post in the Vendor- General section.

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