Mechanic Fixed Head Gasket, At Completion Tells Me I May Require Engine Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 19, 2022
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Location
Colorado
In June I purchased a 93" FZJ80 with 153,000 miles on it.
After only a little bit of ownership I was telling my mechanic and 80 owner friends due to the smell coming out of the exhaust I thought the head was leaking. When checked it was barley able to get the dye to change but eventually it did, the head was leaking slightly.
I asked my mechanic (Toyota Specialist, works on a ton of 80's) if the rest of the vehicle was up to snuff and worth fixing, he said it was.

This entire time there was something between a knock and a tick occurring under the hood. My mechanic concluded this was due to the timing chain guides being broken and that he would fix that as well while in there.
$3,000 + worth of work later and the noise is still there. Mechanic goes back in to replace the tensioner because he thought that was now the issue, noise is still there.

Through some more trial and error the mechanic was able to conclude it was coming from the rod in cylinder 1.
At this point he is not sure if a full rebuild is warranted or not, but I should know soon.

I would like some advice on how to handle this situation and where to go from here. I would like to say this mechanic has always been fair to me and I still do believe him to be a great mechanic and person. With that being said I am not here to talk s*** or drag someone through the MUD. I am 24 and this is one of my first vehicles I have owned and could use some advice.
I was considering engine swaps and other routes, but was told that a head gasket repair would get my vehicle right again. At under $4,000 to get it running smoothly again I was sold. At this point I am almost $4,000 in and being told my engine is in worse condition than I ever imagined. Should this knock been diagnosed first and not brushed aside as timing guide issue before doing $3,000+ in other work? Any advice on what to do if the evidently does need a full rebuild?

Edit *I want to emphasize that I am not blaming my mechanic and just wanted 2nd opinions on this expensive transaction from people much wiser. This mechanic has always been fair to me and done good work and I believe he still is.
 
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If it's just a slight knock, I would run the engine until it explodes and then do a V8 swap. Might happen in a thousand miles or a hundred thousand+.

I'd like to know how he determined it was a rod knock. It's pretty much standard procedure to try running the engine briefly with 1) belts removed and 2) the power steering pump removed. It's way more common to have a bad bearing on your belt idler pulley or water pump, or a damaged tooth on the power steering pump than it is to have a bad rod bearing. Especially with only 150k miles.

Take an oil sample and send it to Blackstone for analysis. That will tell you if there are any metals in the oil, and whether the metal is the type that indicates a failing bearing.
 
There are a lot of nice incompetent people in the world. Move on. Find a better mechanic. Confirm if failure is confirmed via oil test, you maybe at early stage of destruction where a rebuild can be done. If not run to failure and find replacement 1fz motor to swap. This is the cheapest option. Let no one fool you that other engine swaps are cheap whether you do it yourself or have someone do it for you. Read here on Mud.
 
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With the engine running remove/re-install one spark plug wire at a time. The knock will go away or lessen on the cylinder with the bad rod bearing. If nothing changes probably not a rod.
@gummycarbs This is what was done to ensure it is the rod. I was praying it was PS related
 
@gummycarbs This is what was done to ensure it is the rod. I was praying it was PS related
Well bummer, might get lucky and only needs a rod bearing and not a overhaul. In any case engine is probably not very healthy.
 
another way to confirm the rod knock (especially if it's really bad) is to get the cylinder in question to TDC and then ~1/2 way on the down stroke (so that the connecting rod is near vertical). then gently place a long piece of wood or something through the spark plug hole till it softly comes into contact with the piston. Finally, give it a good shove and listen/feel for the knock.
 
There are a lot of nice incompetent people in the world. Move on. Find a better mechanic. Confirm. If failure is confirmed via oil test, you maybe at early stage of destruction where a rebuild can be done. If not run to failure and find replacement 1fz motor or swap. These are the cheapest options. Let know one fool you. Other engine swaps are not cheap if you it yourself let alone have someone do it for you. Read here on Mud.
Appreciate the response. I agree the cheapest option is to put another FZJ80 motor in and the most expensive is an LS swap. The thing that bugs me the most here is that I could have put the $4k spent on the head and other repairs on a new engine.
 
Well bummer, might get lucky and only needs a rod bearing and not a overhaul. In any case engine is probably not very healthy.
This is where me and my mechanic left off at. Praying the rod only needs a bearing.
 
Drop the pan find the bad bearing and try to get away with only changing the bearing and cleaning up anything else, or your there change all the bearings and run it. I ran with a knock for 30k miles
 
Appreciate the response. I agree the cheapest option is to put another FZJ80 motor in and the most expensive is an LS swap. The thing that bugs me the most here is that I could have put the $4k spent on the head and other repairs on a new engine.
Agree. Live and learn situation I guess. Looks like you have a bird in hand on an engine.
 
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The OP is 24 yo and needs to go through a mechanic so asking him do all sorts of Dx steps may not be fruitful, I'm thinking ;) I suggest grabbing another engine from one of the above poster and hang on to it. See if the original engine can be repaired and if not, you got a backup engine for parts or a whole swap. No way would I suggest the OP do any kind of an engine conversion 'cause I don't think he has $20k laying around for a conversion done by others.

@80 Life I suggest you acquaint yourself with your local Clubhouse dudes and see how they can help you out. I bet there are other 80 owners in your 'hood who would love to help you with this dillemma.
 
If it's just a slight knock, I would run the engine until it explodes and then do a V8 swap. Might happen in a thousand miles or a hundred thousand+.

I'd like to know how he determined it was a rod knock. It's pretty much standard procedure to try running the engine briefly with 1) belts removed and 2) the power steering pump removed. It's way more common to have a bad bearing on your belt idler pulley or water pump, or a damaged tooth on the power steering pump than it is to have a bad rod bearing. Especially with only 150k miles.

Take an oil sample and send it to Blackstone for analysis. That will tell you if there are any metals in the oil, and whether the metal is the type that indicates a failing bearing.
First, a disclaimer; I broke every MUD rule by completely rebuilding mine @372k miles, even though it passed CA smog...
I like the above suggestion about Blackstone.
Assuming it is a rod bearing. I'd either replace all of them with the engine in place (if possible), or, pull and rebuild the complete bottom end, or drop in a trusted replacement.
Happy holidays to all
 
The OP is 24 yo and needs to go through a mechanic so asking him do all sorts of Dx steps may not be fruitful, I'm thinking ;) I suggest grabbing another engine from one of the above poster and hang on to it. See if the original engine can be repaired and if not, you got a backup engine for parts or a whole swap. No way would I suggest the OP do any kind of an engine conversion 'cause I don't think he has $20k laying around for a conversion done by others.

@80 Life I suggest you acquaint yourself with your local Clubhouse dudes and see how they can help you out. I bet there are other 80 owners in your 'hood who would love to help you with this dillemma.
I agree that grabbing one of the engines above is not a bad move.
People giving steps really did help because atleast I know my mechanic is doing all the proper things at this point, which it seems he is by trying to replace the bad bearing first.
Honestly the cash isn’t the biggest issue as long as it’s spent well. At this point it’s more of a time crunch as my other vehicle is a Prius and I’m in the mountains a lot. Proper LS swaps can take forever.
Lastly, I also agree I need to get more aquatinted with the local mudders. You guys have already been a ton of help in my few months in the community. I hold to it that this is the greatest forum for any topic ever created.
 
In regards to the mechanic. If he took off the head to do a head gasket it's likely that he wouldn't have been looking/listening/expecting a bent rod. Take off the head, have machine shop do their magic, put it back on with a new gasket and studs.

The symptoms guided all parties and advice to a head gasket. He replaced it. I wouldn't fault him based on what I'm understanding. Sucks, but not like he intentionally misled you.

What next? Lots of opinions on that. A replacement from someone might be great but it's still a risk. Personally, I'd get a new block, put on your head and be done for 500k miles. Ask mechanic to try to give you a bit of a break on labor if he can. Just an opinion.

Best to you and the cruiser. 👍
 
The symptoms guided all parties and advice to a head gasket. He replaced it. I wouldn't fault him based on what I'm understanding. Sucks, but not like he intentionally misled you.
Agreed. Thanks for the input
 
This is news to me that you can still buy a brand new block assembly from Toyota for about $4,000.
I love the idea of a brand new block with a refreshed top end (machined head w/ mls gasket and ARP studs, water pump, timing chain, thermostat and more)
 
This is news to me that you can still buy a brand new block assembly from Toyota for about $4,000.
I love the idea of a brand new block with a refreshed top end (machined head w/ mls gasket and ARP studs, water pump, timing chain, thermostat and more)
The idea is great! But...
It'll be a tad spendy even if DIY. Having a mechanic do it? YIKES!
Realistically, a rebuild should be much cheaper; assuming the block isn't cracked, etc.
 

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