1997 FzJ80 - Let's Begin a Baseline! (1 Viewer)

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Ok, so the cooling system update happened this last weekend...

PHH wasn't completed...ran out of time.

The only casualty to the entire endeavor was, seemingly, the AC Compressor...the day leading up to cracking everything open I noticed the AC taking longer and longer to kick in, and then it would warm up. This became more prevalent after completing the cooling update until finally, while driving 30 miles home, the ac stopped. I'd hoped it was just low on refrigerant but hooking up a tester dial indicated the low side had more than enough coolant. Standing there looking under the hood with it running (and scratching my head like an idiot), after about five minutes (and with the AC ON), I noticed the compressor clutch NOT ONCE kicking on. So, I stood there for another almost ten minutes with it running and...nope. No clutch engagement on the AC. So, a call was made to my Land Cruiser shop and she's scheduled to go in.

Ended up taking pretty much the entire front off to get to the radiator...I know now this wasn't NEEDED, but, you learn things as you go, right. Plus it gave me a chance to clean a lot of periperals like the headlamps...also, those side lights are a PITA to remove when they haven't been popped out in almost 30 years! Cleaned the fan blade which was SUPER dirty, to include the fan shroud, as well as the lower skid plate.

Coolant was DARK green, as seen in the attached pic...a bit murky, really with some sediment but nothing major. This is the first full flush in 20K miles...no clue if the PO did anything.

New radiator went in like a charm...no problems at all. In fact, the only resistance I had was fighting with the belt tensioner off the alternator. Found the PO had used non-Toyotas belts...as in a wholly different set of belts for a different vehicle and stretched/made to fit, which I didn't think was possible...guess it shows you can if you're willing.

The "click" from the fan clutch going out went away once completed with the update and she's purring like a quiet and happy kitten now. Temps haven't gone above 191 (when the AC was working)...150 miles driven since completion and thus far, no issues.

All in all, I'd give it "Two Bananas", I guess, in difficulty. More time consuming than anything else....and I'm very happy with the outcome!

I cannot begin to explain how much this forum helped...in looking up torque specs, to others completing similar tasks, to everything else....the information y'all give is priceless. And so is the sh!ttalking ;)


Next up...Cap, rotor, wires, and plugs :)

Replaced with new:

Aisin Water pump
Aisin Thermostat
Aisin Blue Fan Clutch
Wit's End Radiator Hose Set
Wit's End Heater Hose Set
Wit's End "Small Engine" hose set
OEM Heater Control Valve
Denso Radiator
Coolant flush (including block)
Coolant change (Prestone Universal 50/50)
Oil Change w/ Rotella 15-40
OEM Oil filter
OEM Air Filter
OEM Drive/AC Belts
OEM Tensioner/Pulley Set
OEM Hood Struts

And ONE Vitorrio's "Sausage, egg, cheese, bacon, and potato" burrito...
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More photos...New thermostat and water pump.

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OEM Heater Control valve (Before and after), new Aisin Blue Fan Clutch, & Denso Radiator installed.

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All put back together...then washed and waxed and ready for the next update!

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Ok, a (verbose) update:

She's been running AMAZING...so very quiet now that the fan clutch was replaced, and she's staying cool, even under a tow-heavy load of a heavy pop-up trailer tent (2300 lbs)...no more than 189 Degrees F per the ODB2 reader I use in conjunction with my tablet.

So, to recap...NEW
  • Denso Radiator
  • OEM Radiator Cap
  • OEM Radiator Hoses via Wit's End
  • OEM "Small Engine Hoses" via Wit's End
  • OEM Heater Control Valve
  • OEM Drive Belts
  • AISIN "Blue" Fan Clutch
  • AISIN Water Pump
  • AISIN Thermostat
  • Engine block drain/flush
  • New Prestone 50/50 Universal Coolant
The plan was then to update the ignition system (Cap, rotor, wires, plugs) and then change the Diff oil but the weekend I was going to perform these tasks, the AC stopped working...so, off to the Land Cruiser shop she went because it was still "hot" and without being able to bring the windows down, AC was a much needed thing...even though she's not my DD.

I won't C/P the thread so if you're interested in what the issue was, you can look at my THREAD ON ELECTRICAL GREMLINS - after going to the shop three different times to diagnose and chase the issue, I have AC again. It was a mix of the (mentioned in the electrical thread) plug being plugged back in, a bad relay under the dash, a faulty AC Control Panel I was sent, and several wires having no power to them under the dash...whcih was believed to be from the previously mentioned (in another thread) "Janky-Ass Stereo Installation" by a big box company OR a "friend" who "knows how to install" a stereo...

But, I have AC again...It was a bill I wasn't expecting but, despite the weather now being in the highs of 50 degrees F, It needed to be done. Just a few other smaller things will have to wait.

While there, the tech did an inspection:

  • Front knuckle seals will need to be replaced (seeping - not a lot, but enough)
  • Wheel bearings will need to be replaced (Slight, but enough of a wobble when pushing against wheel)
  • Fuel filter was replaced 20-25K (Ish) miles ago
  • PHH was replaced (Green Stripe) 20-25K (Ish) miles ago
  • U-Joints were all replaced 20-25K (ish) miles ago
    • This work would have been would have been just before I bought her.
      • At least I can take off the U-Joint(s) and Fuel Filter from my "TO Do" list.

I also found out that I need to replace the gasket for my windshield as it appears cracked and the outer metal ring has been "lifted"...this is allowing water in and behind the dash and to the floorboards and NOT plugged drain tubes from the sunroof. So that has been moved up from "Non-Existent" to "Priority" since we are into the rain season in the PNW...right now, she's tarped for good measure.

The shop did insert the new Kenwood touchscreen deck, but it doesn't have power. That's on another visit along with updating speakers since going with the stock grills and size are relatively inexpensive.


I'm still experiencing this list of items not working / working (Taken from my other thread)

The NOT-working properly list:
  • Sunroof not opening (not even a sound of an attempt when depressing the button)
  • Cigarette port not working
  • Light in ashtray not working
  • All window buttons not working
  • Clock not working
  • Stereo not working
  • Rear dome light not working (but middle and front map light DO work)
  • Antenna not working
  • Right side instrument panel lights not working (But left side of panel lights up)
  • Side mirror controls do not work
  • Green ring around ignition stays on ALL THE TIME and I know it shouldn't
And yes, all the fuses have been checked - nothing wrong there - none of them have blown.

The Working list:
  • Door locks work - except the rear hatch.
  • All exterior lights work
  • Passenger key will lock/unlock all doors
  • Lower door lights work
  • Electrical seats move (forward, up, down, reclining, and lumbar, but won't move BACKWARDS - on both, but that could be a bad worm drive)
  • Horn works
  • All gauges work - verified against ODB2 reader
  • AC works (and all buttons light up)
  • "D" light works ;)
  • AC / Heat / Defrost works
I had that long talk that I think we all have..."Are these issues worth going down the rabbit hole?"

Considering I paid $2300 for her (7 years ago), the shop said yes. Plus, as noted, she runs extremely well. But the constant, also which all of us know, is that she's 25 years old. Granted, the OD says 221K miles (verified), she wasn't taken care of by her previous owner...and I'm left to rectify this mistake.

One thing the shop did mention...they were happy to see I'm ensuring mechanical ability before updating with a lift or tires and such.
I just wanna make sure she's had money spent on her in the right places before I do any mods.


I'll update more as I go.


If you've made it this far, thanks.

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Ok, a (verbose) update:

She's been running AMAZING...so very quiet now that the fan clutch was replaced, and she's staying cool, even under a tow-heavy load of a heavy pop-up trailer tent (2300 lbs)...no more than 189 Degrees F per the ODB2 reader I use in conjunction with my tablet.

So, to recap...REPLACED
  • Denso Radiator
  • OEM Radiator Cap
  • OEM Radiator Hoses via Wit's End
  • OEM "Small Engine Hoses" via Wit's End
  • OEM Heater Control Valve
  • OEM Drive Belts
  • AISIN "Blue" Fan Clutch
  • AISIN Water Pump
  • AISIN Thermostat
  • Engine block drain/flush
  • New Prestone 50/50 Universal Coolant
The plan was then to update the ignition system (Cap, rotor, wires, plugs) and then change the Diff oil but the weekend I was going to perform these tasks, the AC stopped working...so, off to the Land Cruiser shop she went because it was still "hot" and without being able to bring the windows down, AC was a much needed thing...even though she's not my DD.

I won't C/P the thread so if you're interested in what the issue was, you can look at my THREAD ON ELECTRICAL GREMLINS - after going to the shop three different times to diagnose and chase the issue, I have AC again. It was a mix of the (mentioned in the electrical thread) plug being plugged back in, a bad relay under the dash, a faulty AC Control Panel I was sent, and several wires having no power to them under the dash...whcih was believed to be from the previously mentioned (in another thread) "Janky-Ass Stereo Installation" by a big box company OR a "friend" who "knows how to install" a stereo...

But, I have AC again...It was a bill I wasn't expecting but, despite the weather now being in the highs of 50 degrees F, It needed to be done. Just a few other smaller things will have to wait.

While there, the tech did an inspection:

  • Front knuckle seals will need to be replaced (seeping - not a lot, but enough)
  • Wheel bearings will need to be replaced (Slight, but enough of a wobble when pushing against wheel)
  • Fuel filter was replaced 20-25K (Ish) miles ago
  • U-Joints were all replaced 20-25K (ish) miles ago
    • This work would have been would have been just before I bought her.
      • At least I can take off the U-Joint(s) and Fuel Filter from my "TO Do" list.

I also found out that I need to replace the gasket for my windshield as it appears cracked and the outer metal ring has been "lifted"...this is allowing water in and behind the dash and to the floorboards and NOT plugged drain tubes from the sunroof. So that has been moved up from "Non-Existent" to "Priority" since we are into the rain season in the PNW...right now, she's tarped for good measure.

The shop did insert the new Kenwood touchscreen deck, but it doesn't have power. That's on another visit along with updating speakers since going with the stock grills and size are relatively inexpensive.


I'm still experiencing this list of items not working / working (Taken from my other thread)

The NOT-working properly list:
  • Sunroof not opening (not even a sound of an attempt when depressing the button)
  • Cigarette port not working
  • Light in ashtray not working
  • All window buttons not working
  • Clock not working
  • Stereo not working
  • Rear dome light not working (but middle and front map light DO work)
  • Antenna not working
  • Right side instrument panel lights not working (But left side of panel lights up)
  • Side mirror controls do not work
  • Green ring around ignition stays on ALL THE TIME and I know it shouldn't
And yes, all the fuses have been checked - nothing wrong there - none of them have blown.

The Working list:
  • Door locks work - except the rear hatch.
  • All exterior lights work
  • Passenger key will lock/unlock all doors
  • Lower door lights work
  • Electrical seats move (forward, up, down, reclining, and lumbar, but won't move BACKWARDS - on both, but that could be a bad worm drive)
  • Horn works
  • All gauges work - verified against ODB2 reader
  • AC works (and all buttons light up)
  • "D" light works ;)
  • AC / Heat / Defrost works
I had that long talk that I think we all have..."Are these issues worth going down the rabbit hole?"

Considering I paid $2300 for her (7 years ago), the shop said yes. Plus, as noted, she runs extremely well. But the constant, also which all of us know, is that she's 25 years old. Granted, the OD says 221K miles (verified), she wasn't taken care of by her previous owner...and I'm left to rectify this mistake.


I'll update more as I go.


If you've made it this far, thanks.

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I'm going to have a look at the cable connected to the HCV. I doubt I reconnected that properly. It wasn't moving though when I turned the slider to either extremes. it just blows hot all the time. I'll take note of the things you mentioned as well as the servo motor. the cable may have to be replaced.
 
I'm going to have a look at the cable connected to the HCV. I doubt I reconnected that properly. It wasn't moving though when I turned the slider to either extremes. it just blows hot all the time. I'll take note of the things you mentioned as well as the servo motor. the cable may have to be replaced.
Yeah, I think it's real easy to get that one not to be correct...take a look. I've read some threads where people didn't get the connecting thread to "click" in properly.

When you mention the "servo motor" I'm assuming that's regarding the power seat? If yes, there's a good and detailed thread about it here in THIS THREAD, Post #5 (video)


D.
 
Yeah, I think it's real easy to get that one not to be correct...take a look. I've read some threads where people didn't get the connecting thread to "click" in properly.

When you mention the "servo motor" I'm assuming that's regarding the power seat? If yes, there's a good and detailed thread about it here in THIS THREAD, Post #5 (video)


D.
nope the servo motor that the other end of the control valve connects to. but I recently just broke the plastic gear for the seat motor too so I'm going to have to pull the two seats out to replace the gears... again.
 
nope the servo motor that the other end of the control valve connects to. but I recently just broke the plastic gear for the seat motor too so I'm going to have to pull the two seats out to replace the gears... again.
Ah, gotcha! Thanks for the clarification.

Yeah, my brother was super stressed about spending the $$$ on his DS seat as the motor wont allow it to go back...I sent him the same video as above; he was thrilled.

Like me, it's just him in his Cruiser most of the time, so he doesn't really care about it being a fix and not just a new drive.
For me there's someone who wants to drive my Cruiser but I won't let her (not yet at least); the biggest thing she's ever driven has been the size of a Toyota Yaris so there definitely needs to be some lessons on how to drive, hahahaha! She will at some point, probably on a camping trip next season, but I want to also make sure the rig is mechanically sound before I throw her the keys.
 
Ah, gotcha! Thanks for the clarification.

Yeah, my brother was super stressed about spending the $$$ on his DS seat as the motor wont allow it to go back...I sent him the same video as above; he was thrilled.

Like me, it's just him in his Cruiser most of the time, so he doesn't really care.
For me there's someone who wants to drive my Cruiser but I won't let her (not yet at least); the biggest thing she's ever driven has been the size of a Toyota Yaris so there definitely needs to be some lessons on how to drive, hahahaha! She will at some point, probably on a camping trip next season, but I want to also make sure the rig is mechanically sound before I throw her the keys.
it was the opposite for us. it was easier to learn to drive on the lx450 rather than the camry because it was slower to accelerate so it was more forgiving LOL
 
it was the opposite for us. it was easier to learn to drive on the lx450 rather than the camry because it was slower to accelerate so it was more forgiving LOL
When I was a kid, around 14 (soooo, way back in 1991 or so) my dad began teaching me how to drive in his 1973 two doo Lincoln Continental LAND YACHT around the neighborhood...once I actually had my learners permit (at 15), he started teaching me how to drive stick in the FJ40. THE DAY I got my license (The day after I turned 16), he drove he and I out into the Phoenix desert, drove halfway up a large hill with a good incline, parked it, swapped seats, and then told me, "Go up the hill. If you roll backwards, you'll never drive this..."

I can't begin to tell you the amount of anxiety of being a kid with a license and having only been driving stick for several months, and only supervised, and only in the neighborhood (never on main/busy streets), and being told to keep it from rolling backwards down the hill in order to be able to drive it...but I did it. Slipped the clutch and braked at the same time. My big ol feet did the job.

He laughed.

The Continental was later swapped out for a huge suburban...so I get learning how to drive on something big ;)
 
UPDATE:

I posted this in the "What did you do this weekend" thread but I'm trying to keep a running account of my baseline and other work on the Cruiser, so, here is an update...

The shop found that the gasket in the windshield was popped-up a little and this was "more than likely" causing my water issues and not the plugged drain tubes from the sunroof (Spoiler...they weren't plugged at all). So, I picked up the OEM gasket and went to the shop that my LC guys recommended; a shop that specifically knows how to deal with the 80 series windshield gasket.

Much to my chagrin, the windshield had been replaced once upon a time but the PO didn't apparently know about what/how it NEEDS to be set up and sealed. Hence the leaking. Shop said it looked more like a home grown job. They installed the OEM gasket I purchased, sealed it properly, and sent me on my way.

I haven't had any problems with water on the floorboards since.

Pics added from the shop that did the work.

  • Remove/Replace front windshield gasket
  • Inspection request per customer - indication of rust along edges
  • Treated rust, removed as much as possible
  • Windshield frame treatment
  • Install customer provided Toyota OEM gasket
  • Glass installation
  • Verify seal
The glass didn't need to be replaced, thankfully.


Now on to the electrical issues. Slow and steady, sadly...the bank accounts and credit cards don't like the strenuous workouts this ol' rig forces them into from time to time..

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Windgasket3.jpg
 
UPDATE:

I posted this in the "What did you do this weekend" thread but I'm trying to keep a running account of my baseline and other work on the Cruiser, so, here is an update...

The shop found that the gasket in the windshield was popped-up a little and this was "more than likely" causing my water issues and not the plugged drain tubes from the sunroof (Spoiler...they weren't plugged at all). So, I picked up the OEM gasket and went to the shop that my LC guys recommended; a shop that specifically knows how to deal with the 80 series windshield gasket.

Much to my chagrin, the windshield had been replaced once upon a time but the PO didn't apparently know about what/how it NEEDS to be set up and sealed. Hence the leaking. Shop said it looked more like a home grown job. They installed the OEM gasket I purchased, sealed it properly, and sent me on my way.

I haven't had any problems with water on the floorboards since.

Pics added from the shop that did the work.

  • Remove/Replace front windshield gasket
  • Inspection request per customer - indication of rust along edges
  • Treated rust, removed as much as possible
  • Windshield frame treatment
  • Install customer provided Toyota OEM gasket
  • Glass installation
  • Verify seal
The glass didn't need to be replaced, thankfully.


Now on to the electrical issues. Slow and steady, sadly...the bank accounts and credit cards don't like the strenuous workouts this ol' rig forces them into from time to time..

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This sounds similar to what the dealer told me last week when they found water intrusion on my driver side. I only see it on the door edge but not on the floor. They said they found rust on the windshield but that would've taken more time so they skipped it.
 
This sounds similar to what the dealer told me last week when they found water intrusion on my driver side. I only see it on the door edge but not on the floor. They said they found rust on the windshield but that would've taken more time so they skipped it.
Yeah, from what my LC shop said, when they saw the rust bubbles around the edge AND some of the outer gasket pried up, they knew. When I spoke with the glass shop, they initially said that I might need some body work done around the windshield depending on how bad it was. Thankfully, it wasn't anything a good drill and wire brush couldn't handle, mixed with some heavy no rust primer.

I'd definitely suggest grabbing the OEM gasket and having a good glass shop do the work. Take in a copy of the FSM because there's a specific process for putting the new gasket in.

As it was explained to me, "DON'T skimp on the windshield gasket; go OEM"

It's $80 on Toyota Parts Deal right now.

Labor at the glass shop I used was $150 so I was $220 all in.

And no, I've never had any issues with TPD...I know a lot of people have. They are my "Go to".

👍
 
An update:

11/14 - Had the windshield gasket replaced (OEM with a shop who knows 80 series cruiser glass gasket requirements) and thought this would alleviate my water issues...come to find out - I was wrong.

12/11 - Found out the hard way that the seal on the sunroof isn't getting the job done and as the Portland rain seeps in, it travels from the sunroof to the A-Pillar and then into the floors. It's also seeping into the headliner a little. So, I purchased some Gorilla Waterproof sealant tape (4" wide) and sealed the sunroof with it and threw in three moisture collectors.

Fun times.
Another member told me that the sunroof drains are probably plugged. I don't think they are but I'll check...but I can also see where the seal isn't sealing all the way; in fact, you can push on the sunroof and see a hairline gap, so I think this is where water is seeping in.

Until I can get this verified the sunroof will just be sealed with the tape.

12/15 - Purchased a new battery and battery bracket since I don't have one. Swapping out the 24F Interstate with another for the time being.

12/16 - Received my Full Knuckle Rebuild Kit from @cruiseroutfit - super fast arrival, THANK YOU!

Soon: Need to buy the "555" tie-rod set from them, the Knuckle Stud(s) set from @NLXTACY and then wheel bearing grease, red grease, and all the cleaning supplies.

Doing the actual job won't be until after the New Year though, maybe close to February, BUT, it'll be something checked off of the "To Do" list before being able to add armor and a lift.

TOMORROW: Heading out with a few friends for a super simple trail in Tillamook National Forest - just an old forest/logging road. Will post pics later!

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On Monday the rest of my Front End / Knuckle Rebuild kit arrived; The "555" Tie Rod set from @cruiseroutfit and knuckle stud set from @NLXTACY , along with the (DRUMROLL) dual console Cupholders from @bhicks (note, I liked the big dal one so much when I purchased it for my brothers Cruiser, I bought one for myself...after getting it, I'm going to buy the center armrest cupholder later today)

My Land Cruiser is currently back at the glass shop for the OEM gasket. I have water everywhere but after talking to them and sending pics and videos of the amount of water I have on the floorboards, they are taking care of it. She's currently drying out in their shop and will be addressed on Monday. Super happy to work with a company that's willing to go above and beyond!

Next month...she goes in to chase all the electrical gremlins she's plagued with; I was recommended an auto electrical shop where each person there has about no less than three decades of working on nothing but auto electrics; I described my issue and the guy I spoke to laughed and said, "Yeah, I think we'll get you cleaned up,"


All in all...a few small steps forward.
Soon I'll purchase the Rear Swing Out from @GGM and then update the suspension.








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I love a reasonable (not over the top) build. Let me know when you are ready for a winch. I have a plate mount that can work with the factory bumper. Or another option if you don't want the factory bumper but you don't want to fork out all the dollhairs for a bumper. 👍 Keep up the updates.
 
I’m envious that you have so many resources nearby and at your disposal.

Good work working you way to get your cruiser back to its former glory.
 
Will get your knuckles rebuild next month I’m booked out this month. Maybe we can poke around for your electrical gremlins while I watch you clean parts and drink beer!
 
I love a reasonable (not over the top) build. Let me know when you are ready for a winch. I have a plate mount that can work with the factory bumper. Or another option if you don't want the factory bumper but you don't want to fork out all the dollhairs for a bumper. 👍 Keep up the updates.
Thanks!

I've been looking at your winch mount. I'll also pick up your license plate set up.

I'm torn between keeping it more of a stock look or adding the IronMan bull bar; I watched my dad's 80 (before he passed) lose its front end when someone made an illegal turn in front of him, and I've watched a bunch of dashcam videos of Cruiser owners to really think about it. BUT, it does add a bunch of weight.

Thanks, and I'll keep you in the loop!
 
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