Steering Stabilizer (1 Viewer)

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There are a lot of us running around without a stabilizer. To do this everything in the suspension and steering needs to be tight/not worn out.
What he said!!
I did my 80 box conversion as part of a total rebuild and assumed I would want to essentially do as you are hoping to do. I pushed off that piece of the puzzle until I was driving the cruiser and resized I didn’t need one. My spring bushings and tre’s were all fresh from the build and I had caster shims to correct the geometry from 4” of lift. 5 summers of driving/wheeling and I still don’t need a stabilizer. Maybe refresh your bushings and possibly tre’s and you’ll forget about the band-aide?
 
What he said!!
I did my 80 box conversion as part of a total rebuild and assumed I would want to essentially do as you are hoping to do. I pushed off that piece of the puzzle until I was driving the cruiser and resized I didn’t need one. My spring bushings and tre’s were all fresh from the build and I had caster shims to correct the geometry from 4” of lift. 5 summers of driving/wheeling and I still don’t need a stabilizer. Maybe refresh your bushings and possibly tre’s and you’ll forget about the band-aide?
Favorite source for bushings?

My bushings are more than 12 years old.

My tires were pretty old as well. New tires feel pretty good.
 
I agree with power steering you don't "need" a stabilizer. However, I'd assume (not an engineer) that with a stabilizer you are prolonging the life of your TRE's and other steering components by absorbing the hits...and we know those can be pretty harsh.

Even with a power steering setup like the OP has, I'd pick up an OEM mount, utilize the cross member mount point and then mark on the link where the stabilizer fully extended and compressed as you turn the wheels left and right. Then, mount a tab to the link within those marks. The only concern I would have is that (I believe) the tab would have to be tapered. So...perhaps canibalize a pivot? Either way...you then have an OEM looking stabilizer solution, absorbing harsh impact on your steering system.

Just my thought.
 
the Microfiche term is " Dampener "


and YES a power steering system absolutely needs the assist of the Dampener's Dampening Abilities ....

why would it not ?

because it does , and that matters
 
When mounted from the relay rod to the frame, the '"dampener" would best protect the steering gear itself from impact. I totally see the need for one with bigger tires, with factory length steering arms.

The nice thing about the original 40 stabilizer is that it employs metal ball joints, and the tapered pin. The Old Man Emu, or Monroe type "dampeners" would have their bushings running a bit crooked to the axis of the pin, the way it reaches back to the frame cross-member. Bushings get wasted pretty quick, or, at least I always find them deformed upon tear-down. I question the rigidity and durability of that connection, but, it is no surprise that others have made that work for them in that situation.
 
Favorite source for bushings?

My bushings are more than 12 years old.

My tires were pretty old as well. New tires feel pretty good.
Cruiser outfitters is probably my first choice. Just for reference, I have OME springs and bushings.

I hear the voices that say the damper is necessary and I can’t say they are wrong. All I can say is I haven’t noticed any detrimental effects in not having one. I’m still driving one hand on the wheel at 60mph and occasionally wheeling trails (like steel bender) all on 35’s for the last 6 years. On the other hand they might be right…
 
I just found the pin for the Old Man Emu dampener. Could you combine the Monroe dampener with the Old Man Emu pins, if someone will get you just Old Man Emu pins, and the pins can work with the Monroe bushings? It has a taper to fit in the factory holes. Is the taper correct to the orientation to how you will route it?
The one small hiccup is that the taper is going on the particular TRE that I have. I'll either ream a taper reverse to what is there or drill it out and simply use a bolt.

Does anyone know if there are tapered shims that could be used to convert a 1/2" hole to a tapered one? Ideally ones wit a split that would just tighten in with the nut... ensuring a tug fit with no play.
20221205_103728.jpg
 
I saw that the OEM piece that @dmaddox had was from KYB, so I contacted them.

Their support was funny, they said "Sorry, but we do not have a steering stabilizer even close to the required specifications."

I asked if they had anything close, and they sent me P/N ss10333.

They just sent the p/n, no dims. when I looked it up, it looks like compressed = 13.18", and extended length = 21".

Hmm... 🤔

The OEM piece:

View attachment 3171839

The KYB SS10333:
View attachment 3171841
They DO have the OEM unit, as they manufacturer it for Toyota. It's available aftermarket in AU, but not USA, and through the dealer it is OUTRAGEOUSLY priced. I called KYB and asked for a sample and they would not provide. KYB is very difficult to deal with. The good news is that aside from corrosion, these units seem to last a good long time, and the rubber boots and retaining rings are available new from Toyota (Same boot as is on OEM tie rods). If you have a good unit, clean it up, add new boots, and put it into service. If you opt to go with what KYB provided, you will need a stud with a taper on one end, for affixing to the stock mount.
 
They DO have the OEM unit, as they manufacturer it for Toyota. It's available aftermarket in AU, but not USA, and through the dealer it is OUTRAGEOUSLY priced. I called KYB and asked for a sample and they would not provide. KYB is very difficult to deal with. The good news is that aside from corrosion, these units seem to last a good long time, and the rubber boots and retaining rings are available new from Toyota (Same boot as is on OEM tie rods). If you have a good unit, clean it up, add new boots, and put it into service. If you opt to go with what KYB provided, you will need a stud with a taper on one end, for affixing to the stock mount.

My original was long gone when I got the 40.
If KYB is not helpful, they can suck it. I like their product, but I have already gone out of my way to try to buy from them.

I think I will try to get this tomorrow:

 
My original was long gone when I got the 40.
If KYB is not helpful, they can suck it. I like their product, but I have already gone out of my way to try to buy from them.

I think I will try to get this tomorrow:

I got it, it is on.
It covers the range very well.
I want to back and remove the spacer I used at the crossmember mount - it will allow things to lie a little straigher:
IMG_6400.JPG
 

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