Builds 94 FZJ80 - Let the Adventure Ensue (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter FMC80
- Start date
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PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
It’s like looking into my future about a month from now. Kinda looking forward to it, or at least the thought of how awesome the truck will run afterwards.
Just a thought if you missed it; no better time to replace those motor mounts if you‘re pulling the whole thing.
Just a thought if you missed it; no better time to replace those motor mounts if you‘re pulling the whole thing.
davidp14
SILVER Star
lurking...hoping to learn from your mistakes for when its my turn...
GL!
GL!
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
And an
Another vote of confidence!
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #806
The following is a working list of the shiz I have for my rebuild. I have already replaced many of these components during my baseline in 2020, so I won't be replacing everything, but if I hadn't baseline it less than 3 years ago, I would. Let me know if you see something I missed!
| HG & Engine Removal Parts List | |
| Injectors out for cleaning/service | |
| Steering Box/Frame support kit from DVS | |
| FIPG | 00295-00103 |
| Silicon spray | |
| Red coolant | |
| Rebuild head | |
| Assembly Lube | |
| Valve shims | |
| plugs | |
| Rotor | 19101-66010 |
| Wires | 90919-21557 |
| Distributor O-ring | 90099-14118 |
| Distributor rotor o-ring | 19127-66020 |
| Rotor Assy | 19102-61240 |
| Head Bolts | 90910-02111 |
| Head Bolts Washers | 90201-12222 |
| Head Gasket Kit (Kit comes with a lot-not sure what it all comes wth) | 04111-66061 |
| Oil cooler cover gasket | 15725-66010 |
| Oil cooler gaskets (x2) | 15785-66010 |
| Oil cooler o-rings (x2) | 15134-20010 |
| Small hose material | 90999-92003 |
| Cyl Head bolts (x14) | 90910-02111 |
| Cyl Head washers x14 | 90201-12222 |
| Exhaust manifold studs x13 | 90116-10169 |
| Exhaust nuts x13 | 90179-10128 |
| Exhaust mani to pipe stud x4 | 90080-12007 |
| Exhaust mani to pipe nut x4 | 90080-17187 |
| Water Pump | WPT-023 |
| Fuel Filter | 23300-69045 |
| Thermostat | 90916-03117 |
| x2 Oil Cooler Gasket | 15785-66010 |
| ECT sensor gasket (in head gasket kit? Other sensor gaskets?) | 90430-12005 |
| Fuel pressure regulator | 23280-75010 |
| Chain Assembly | 13506-66010 |
| Tensioner assembly | 13540-66011 |
| Chain Damper | 13561-66010 |
| Chain Tensioner gasket | 13552-66010 |
| Camshaft Sub Gear | 13529-62901 |
| Camshaft Gear | 13523-66020 |
| Crankshaft Gear | 13521-66020 |
| Wire sensor for knock sensor x2 | 82219-35010 |
| Knock Sensor x2 | 89615-30050 |
| Thermistor assembly | 88790-60050 |
| Alternator Brush | 27370-75060 |
| #1 AC tube | 88716-6A421 |
| A/C Dryer Assembly | 88471-50020 |
| PCV Kit: | |
| Vent hose 1 | 12261-66021 |
| x2 Clamps for hose # 1 | 90467-14001 |
| Vent hose 2 | 12262-66021 |
| x2 Clamps for hose #2 | 90467-20002 |
| PCV valve | 12204-35040 |
| PCV grommet | 90480-18001 |
| Hoses: | |
| Water bypass #4 | 99555-10200 |
| Water bypass #3 | 16267-66020 |
| Water bypass #1 | 16261-66040 |
| Water bypass #2 | 16264-66021 |
| Rad Hose #1 | 16571-66030 |
| Rad Hose #2 | 16572-66021 |
| Rad Hose #3 | 16573-66010 |
| Power Steering Rebuild | 04446-60080 |
| O-ring | 90301-73004 |
| High-pressure gasket | 44327-30030 |
| Hose Sub Assembly Water | 87209-60441 |
| Hose Sub Assembly Water | 87209-60301 |
| Engine Insulators/mounts | |
| Stabilizer brackets x2 (optional) | 12381-66010 |
| Engine Insulators x2 | 12361-17011 |
| Transmision/Engine Insulator | 12371-66030 |
| Nuts w/washer x2 | 90179-12115 |
| Washers x2 | 90201-12208 |
| Nuts x 2 | 90179-12090 |
Last edited:
Looks pretty good. I would just add exhaust gaskets for the manifolds to the y-pipe (assuming it’s the same design as my ‘95).
These come in the HG kit from Toyota. No need to get these separately.
Don't waste time weeding through BS posts on MUD from people who have no clue what they are talking about.
Start here first.
forum.ih8mud.com
Start here first.
Replacement OEM cylinder head gasket set
Since Toyota discontinued the cylinder head gasket set awhile back, you now have to buy a complete engine overhaul set to get a head gasket P/N 04111-66036. While on line i found a cylinder head gasket set, that is supposed to be made by a company that supply's all of the OEM seals and gaskets...
forum.ih8mud.com
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #812
I appreciate this Onur. I didn’t buy 04112-66036, I instead bought 04111-66061. I assume it’s close to the same kit?Don't waste time weeding through BS posts on MUD from people who have no clue what they are talking about.
Start here first.
Replacement OEM cylinder head gasket set
Since Toyota discontinued the cylinder head gasket set awhile back, you now have to buy a complete engine overhaul set to get a head gasket P/N 04111-66036. While on line i found a cylinder head gasket set, that is supposed to be made by a company that supply's all of the OEM seals and gaskets...
I would not know. I have never touched a -66061 nor ever looked into it. What you have is an engine gasket kit (04111 vs. 04112) for a 1FZ from a non-US market. You'd need to discuss with your parts professional.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Easy. time to buy a non us spec cruiser 
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #816
Updated the parts listing from post #806. I'll continue to update that post as I move along.
I am almost to the point of pulling this thing...I think. I follow the FSM step by step, bagging and tagging, and safety wiring the hardware to each component as I remove it. I've been soaking the exhaust manifold bolts & nuts for about 7 days with PB blaster. Hitting each one every other day with a dousing of PB blaster.
Tomorrow, I will do a once-over, pull the transmission support, and lay a jack under her with some wood, as called out in the FSM. A special shout out to @BILT4ME for his patient guidance as I fumble around and try not to **** things up too badly.
I am almost to the point of pulling this thing...I think. I follow the FSM step by step, bagging and tagging, and safety wiring the hardware to each component as I remove it. I've been soaking the exhaust manifold bolts & nuts for about 7 days with PB blaster. Hitting each one every other day with a dousing of PB blaster.
Tomorrow, I will do a once-over, pull the transmission support, and lay a jack under her with some wood, as called out in the FSM. A special shout out to @BILT4ME for his patient guidance as I fumble around and try not to **** things up too badly.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #818
So here's the deal. About 9 days ago, I had a minor towing issue which compelled me to buy a new bumper, front valance, hood, DS fender (ought both front fenders $1100 shipped), and driver's side headlight. I bought the hood and valance. The hood was sourced locally through a Toyota dealer. I have three Toyota dealers nearby, and one beat the others on price by $100. The hood cost me $720 after taxes and the valance was $170 shipped. The headlights will be replaced with Freedom Retrofit, Bi-LEDs ($1200 ish). There is a 22-24 week lead time for these. Crazy. This towing mishap cost me a sh*tload of cash.
This morning on my walk around, I realized I never disconnected the high-pressure steering lines. I didn't have a 17MM flare wrench, but I got a standard open-end wrench to work on removing the line that connects to the power-steering gear assembly. I could not find an open-end wrench to fit under the high-pressure line banjo bolt to loosen that, so I removed the line connecting to the steering gear assy.
Removed my extended breather lines and two 17MM nuts from the bottom of the engine insulators. Removed the fuel line that runs to the fuel filter.
My mother-effing jack decided to piss out its fluid while not in use, so I need to replace an O-ring on that b*tch before I can support the transmission and proceed with engine removal.
My engine harness removal through the firewall was uneventful. Still, in removing one of the smaller branches of the wire harness, I found a previous repair and wires pulled out of the connector. I also identified most of my injector connectors would need to be replaced with new ones. They are brittle; they snap, crackle, and pop just by looking at them.
I need to remove the transmission cross-member. I may use a s***tier jack that I have in the garage to do so.
Here's the new hood.
And the front valance still in the box. I may not even need this sucker since I need a new bumper too...ahem! Delta VS...
This morning on my walk around, I realized I never disconnected the high-pressure steering lines. I didn't have a 17MM flare wrench, but I got a standard open-end wrench to work on removing the line that connects to the power-steering gear assembly. I could not find an open-end wrench to fit under the high-pressure line banjo bolt to loosen that, so I removed the line connecting to the steering gear assy.
Removed my extended breather lines and two 17MM nuts from the bottom of the engine insulators. Removed the fuel line that runs to the fuel filter.
My mother-effing jack decided to piss out its fluid while not in use, so I need to replace an O-ring on that b*tch before I can support the transmission and proceed with engine removal.
My engine harness removal through the firewall was uneventful. Still, in removing one of the smaller branches of the wire harness, I found a previous repair and wires pulled out of the connector. I also identified most of my injector connectors would need to be replaced with new ones. They are brittle; they snap, crackle, and pop just by looking at them.
I need to remove the transmission cross-member. I may use a s***tier jack that I have in the garage to do so.
Here's the new hood.
And the front valance still in the box. I may not even need this sucker since I need a new bumper too...ahem! Delta VS...
Last edited:
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #819
Before removing the engine, @BILT4ME gave me some good tricks of the trade. He informed me to remove the Torque Converter Clutch Mounting bolts while the engine is still installed in the frame because it is difficult to do so when the engine is out since it isn't supported by anything but the hoist. There are 6 bolts, and one of them is painted green. I marked it with a paint pen, so it would find its rightful place upon reassembly.
I mean you're already waiting 24 weeks for headlights they're bumper should arrive just in time.
