Impressed with new 80 Series (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Threads
2
Messages
8
Location
Illinois
Hi Everyone,
New to the forum. I picked up a 1997 Land Cruiser with 376k miles earlier this year. Based on the miles and the terrible oil leak I figured the engine was tired and needed a rebuild. I pulled the engine, and was shocked at how good everything looked on the inside. The 1FZ-FE engine is a beast! The machine shop said that if it wasn't for some scoring in just one cylinder they would have recommended honing cylinders, new rings, new bearings, and putting back together. As it was, we went with just a 0.5mm overbore, new pistons, new rod and main bearings, and head rebuild. No work to the crank was needed. Everything is back together now, and running great! I have been enjoying this site, tons of good info.

One thing I could use help with is finding a complete list of steering components for the front end. The steering is a little loose and I want to replace, all tie rod ends, bushings, etc.

LC Delivery.jpg


LC Motor.jpg
 
Hi Everyone,
New to the forum. I picked up a 1997 Land Cruiser with 376k miles earlier this year. Based on the miles and the terrible oil leak I figured the engine was tired and needed a rebuild. I pulled the engine, and was shocked at how good everything looked on the inside. The 1FZ-FE engine is a beast! The machine shop said that if it wasn't for some scoring in just one cylinder they would have recommended honing cylinders, new rings, new bearings, and putting back together. As it was, we went with just a 0.5mm overbore, new pistons, new rod and main bearings, and head rebuild. No work to the crank was needed. Everything is back together now, and running great! I have been enjoying this site, tons of good info.

One thing I could use help with is finding a complete list of steering components for the front end. The steering is a little loose and I want to replace, all tie rod ends, bushings, etc.

View attachment 3172203

View attachment 3172204
Congrads, you will need to replace the steering gear unit or have it rebuilt by redhead.
 
Hi Everyone,
New to the forum. I picked up a 1997 Land Cruiser with 376k miles earlier this year. Based on the miles and the terrible oil leak I figured the engine was tired and needed a rebuild. I pulled the engine, and was shocked at how good everything looked on the inside. The 1FZ-FE engine is a beast! The machine shop said that if it wasn't for some scoring in just one cylinder they would have recommended honing cylinders, new rings, new bearings, and putting back together. As it was, we went with just a 0.5mm overbore, new pistons, new rod and main bearings, and head rebuild. No work to the crank was needed. Everything is back together now, and running great! I have been enjoying this site, tons of good info.

One thing I could use help with is finding a complete list of steering components for the front end. The steering is a little loose and I want to replace, all tie rod ends, bushings, etc.

View attachment 3172203

View attachment 3172204
There are a few places that can help you with you steering rebuild needs. Cruiserteq.com has a lot of factory parts on their site. 555 is a heavily recommended company as far as the ball joints. Redhead is the premeire steering box rebuild, they can rebuild your stock steering box or upgrade it to the 105 sector shaft. The 105 sector shaft is thicker and less likely to shear like your factory one during wheeling.
 
There are a few places that can help you with you steering rebuild needs. Cruiserteq.com has a lot of factory parts on their site. 555 is a heavily recommended company as far as the ball joints. Redhead is the premeire steering box rebuild, they can rebuild your stock steering box or upgrade it to the 105 sector shaft. The 105 sector shaft is thicker and less likely to shear like your factory one during wheeling.
Thanks OffRoadScott. I'll check those places out.
 
Cost for the parts and labor to rebuild?
 
Cost for the parts and labor to rebuild?
Labor was free. Did all the work myself with help from my boys.
Parts and Machining Work: ~$4200

Here's some details:
Machine shop: $1100 (included machine work on the block and building the rotating assembly, as well as rebuilding the head)
From Toyota - Pistons, rod bearings, crank bearings, thrust bearings, oil pump, timing chain, chain guides and gears, gasket set: $2100
From RockAuto - Radiator (Denso), water pump, hoses (Gates), belts (Dayco), motor mounts, thermostat (Stant), power steering lines (Gates), and misc parts: $650
Misc other stuff + fluids + some tools: $300

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IMG_5922.jpg
 
Thanks OffRoadScott. I'll check those places out.

You are more then welcome. I was in your shoes once and I am trying to pass on what I have learned through trial and error. Don't be afraid to ask questions but use the search feature as well, as someone will blast you for not using it.
 
I'd be curious if there's a noticeable power difference with a .50 bore over. Not sure you have a good baseline to compare it against though since you just bought the truck and it was already fairly high mileage.

I have a 95 with 190k that seems to be running ok, so hopefully still a ways out on a rebuild, but when I do i might just bore if the power increase is worthwhile. It's cool you're keeping the 1FZ instead of LS swap like errbody always wants to do!
 
I don’t think there’s probably any discerable power improvement. She’s still pretty slow and not great on mileage. Don’t get me wrong…I thought about the LS swap. I wanted the extra power, and the mpg improvement was appealing…but I’ll have a teenage driver in about a year and slow and anemic feels right. :)
 
I'm late to the party, but as the rest of these slackers ;) haven't offered you the proper MUD welcome...

Welcome to MUD!:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

I too have a new driver, just passed his test yesterday. :grinpimp: Almost all of his training has been in the 80. It's got enough armour and mass I know we aren't the ones likely to die if he cocks up. Being slow doesn't hurt either, not like he's going to get a speeding ticket. LOL
 
I don’t think there’s probably any discerable power improvement. She’s still pretty slow and not great on mileage. Don’t get me wrong…I thought about the LS swap. I wanted the extra power, and the mpg improvement was appealing…but I’ll have a teenage driver in about a year and slow and anemic feels right. :)
That's exactly why all of three of my drivers got one for graduation! The youngest is looking longingly at my 40. That's never going to happen though. She's getting an 80, like everyone else.
 
I don’t think there’s probably any discerable power improvement. She’s still pretty slow and not great on mileage. Don’t get me wrong…I thought about the LS swap. I wanted the extra power, and the mpg improvement was appealing…but I’ll have a teenage driver in about a year and slow and anemic feels right. :)

I drove a rusted, beat, POS 4cylinder Datsun with a worn clutch one winter in northern Michigan. I was still able to jump it about 10-15’ hitting the train track crossing near my house. Don’t let slow fool you.:hillbilly:
 
What did you paint the valve cover with?

I like the blue.
 
I drove a rusted, beat, POS 4cylinder Datsun with a worn clutch one winter in northern Michigan. I was still able to jump it about 10-15’ hitting the train track crossing near my house. Don’t let slow fool you.:hillbilly:
Haha! I think you are probably right! 😂
 
What did you paint the valve cover with?

I like the blue.
Don’t remember the brand…found it at the local Autoparts store. Just make sure you use a high temp enamel. I primered it first. Time will tell of it was a good idea to paint or not. Could definitely go pear shaped on me.
 

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