Key FOBs not working on 1999 Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)

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Arizona, United States
I have a 1999 Land Cruiser with only one key which I’m told is the master key. I bought a replacement key online. The master key fob doesn’t wirelessly unlock/lock the doors so I got the new one hoping that would resolve. However, I can’t even program the new remote. I get the LC to go into programming mode but pressing unlocks/lock followed by lock on the new key does nothing. Now I’m starting to wonder if the wireless reciever or whatever could be busted but have no idea where to look or troubleshooting.
 
You are aware that programming the key (RFID/Immobilizer) to start the vehicle, is a separate process, from programming the “fob” (RF) to lock/unlock the door(s)?
 
You are aware that programming the key (RFID/Immobilizer) to start the vehicle, is a separate process, from programming the “fob” (RF) to lock/unlock the door(s)?
I was not, I'll re-google and see if I can find something for that. I appreciate the clarification.

Here are the steps I'm following and my key looks the exact same. However when I hit unlock/lock and lock, nothing is happening. Again, even the master key lock/unlock doesn't work with a fresh battery. Could the receiver be bad?

Programming Land Cruiser Key Video

Edit: I was able to get the RFID/Immobilizer working so at least the key will start the vehicle. However, the FOB on both keys still do not work and will not program. I'm thinking now something is up with my receiver. I found a thread on extending the range of the receiver but haven't found something on what to do when the wireless isn't working at all. Mod: Extending range of keyless entry - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/mod-extending-range-of-keyless-entry.1113795/page-2 May just cut my losses or go look at an aftermarket option.
 
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Checked fuses? IIRC there’s a fuse in each the kickpanel fuse box and the engine bay fuse box that are for the wireless door lock control. Probably a relay in there somewhere, too. The wireless door lock ECU is to the left of the steering wheel behind the dash.
 
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I was not, I'll re-google and see if I can find something for that. I appreciate the clarification.

Here are the steps I'm following and my key looks the exact same. However when I hit unlock/lock and lock, nothing is happening. Again, even the master key lock/unlock doesn't work with a fresh battery. Could the receiver be bad?

Programming Land Cruiser Key Video

Edit: I was able to get the RFID/Immobilizer working so at least the key will start the vehicle. However, the FOB on both keys still do not work and will not program. I'm thinking now something is up with my receiver. I found a thread on extending the range of the receiver but haven't found something on what to do when the wireless isn't working at all. Mod: Extending range of keyless entry - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/mod-extending-range-of-keyless-entry.1113795/page-2 May just cut my losses or go look at an aftermarket option.
I’m an old curmudgeon, and find text based instructions a whole lot more useful than YouTube video instructions (maybe I’m old, or maybe I’m weird, but I suspect there might be a “FOB programming” entry in the FAQ section (if there is not, harrass @Trunk Monkey or @e9999 , because there should be 😁 )
 
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Checked fuses? IIRC there’s a fuse in each the kickpanel fuse box and the engine bay fuse box that are for the wireless door lock control. Probably a relay in there somewhere, too. The wireless door lock ECU is to the left of the steering wheel behind the dash.
I guess it’s always possible that there is a physical or technical problem, but 30+ years of IT makes me assume user error, or insufficient bourbon has been applied.
 
insufficient bourbon has been applied.
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Programming the key is in the FAQ, however, programming the FOB is not. Here's the link to the key programming for anyone else who comes across this and needs it:

I'll take a look at the fuses today and see if the one for the receiver is blown or missing. I'll be sure to apply lots of bourbon this time haha
 
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I checked fuses and didn't find anything blown or burnt. I'm thinking there is a failed capacitor or something on the receiver so my next step is to remove that and take a look at the circuit board.
 
I'm having the same issue w/ a key fob I just got. Almost the same thing, key starts the truck but fob doesn't lock/unlock. My master key fob works so it has to be a sequence failure w/ the switch unlock/lock process. Please let me know if you get it to work. So dealer is able to program the FOB?
 
I'm having the same issue w/ a key fob I just got. Almost the same thing, key starts the truck but fob doesn't lock/unlock. My master key fob works so it has to be a sequence failure w/ the switch unlock/lock process. Please let me know if you get it to work. So dealer is able to program the FOB?
Trying to get some funds together before taking Lucy to a mechanic to have this looked at. Honestly, this is low on my priority list right now as I can still access the vehicle and drive it. I'll be doing the front/rear differential fluid as well as the transfer case fluid this weekend and may try to tackle the serpentine belt while I'm at it. If you learn of anything please follow up here!
 
Trying to get some funds together before taking Lucy to a mechanic to have this looked at. Honestly, this is low on my priority list right now as I can still access the vehicle and drive it. I'll be doing the front/rear differential fluid as well as the transfer case fluid this weekend and may try to tackle the serpentine belt while I'm at it. If you learn of anything please follow up here!
Which fluids are you using? I need to do this also.
 
Which fluids are you using? I need to do this also.
I'm going to use 80W-90 as per the guide in the FAQ section:
Front Diff: Front Differential Fluild Change - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-differential-fluild-change.31890/
Transfer Case: DIY Transfer Case Fluid Change How-To - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diy-transfer-case-fluid-change-how-to.441936/

Video guy I watched:
I like this guys videos as they are super straight foward and look professional and take out all the fluff and filler material.
 
Did you guys manage to solve the issue? I also have same issue with non-functioning fob. There are three keys, all start the engine, but remote locking works in none of those despite replacing batteries. No issue in manual central locking.

I have two suspects to blaim at least in this first troubleshooting try, either the wireless ecu or the body ecu. I am still figuring out a way how to confirm which has the issue, or if it's somewhere else. What could be the best steps?
 
Did you guys manage to solve the issue? I also have same issue with non-functioning fob. There are three keys, all start the engine, but remote locking works in none of those despite replacing batteries. No issue in manual central locking.

I have two suspects to blaim at least in this first troubleshooting try, either the wireless ecu or the body ecu. I am still figuring out a way how to confirm which has the issue, or if it's somewhere else. What could be the best steps?
Not yet. I was told by a mechanic the transceiver is working as we got a single button working on the old fob (pushing a button only works 10% of the time). There is a separate process to program the fob. I’m going to do some more digging here soon and try to find this out. Worst case I’ll pay a professional and post what they do and tell me.
 
Not yet. I was told by a mechanic the transceiver is working as we got a single button working on the old fob (pushing a button only works 10% of the time). There is a separate process to program the fob. I’m going to do some more digging here soon and try to find this out. Worst case I’ll pay a professional and post what they do and tell me.
Thanks for update! I also have a fear that fixing this might be so expensive that it makes no sense. At least here the "professionals" will most likely just start randomly changing ecu's and see if it helps. And that does not fit in my budget at all.

Edit: Now I managed to run the sequence to program the fob, it seemed to be quite accurate on timing when pressing in the fob lock+unlock 1sec and then lock 2sec. I got the car doing promising lock + unlock cycles after pressing the final lock in the fob. But still, after this, nothing happens using the fob buttons. So the transmitter works here also I guess. Perhaps it's then the body ecu that is messed up. The body ecu has the non-stop rear wiper issue, and perhaps these issues are somehow linked.
 
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Thanks for update! I also have a fear that fixing this might be so expensive that it makes no sense. At least here the "professionals" will most likely just start randomly changing ecu's and see if it helps. And that does not fit in my budget at all.

Edit: Now I managed to run the sequence to program the fob, it seemed to be quite accurate on timing when pressing in the fob lock+unlock 1sec and then lock 2sec. I got the car doing promising lock + unlock cycles after pressing the final lock in the fob. But still, after this, nothing happens using the fob buttons. So the transmitter works here also I guess. Perhaps it's then the body ecu that is messed up. The body ecu has the non-stop rear wiper issue, and perhaps these issues are somehow linked.
Same thing here for my two Landcruisers. Starting to think that it’s the FOB since it’s happening with both. FOBs are OEM so very frustrating!
 
Same thing here for my two Landcruisers. Starting to think that it’s the FOB since it’s happening with both. FOBs are OEM so very frustrating!
This seems to be a feature. Probably there is some common cause for this, I'm wonder what has been the most common solution. Or is it totally random.

I just ordered a used body ecu from scrapyard, let's see if it does any difference.
 
Okey, my wireless central locking issue is now solved, and the result is somewhat embarrassing. Changing the body ecu did not help, but something a lot more simple.

I have three keys which all had empty batteries. I remember changing a new battery to different keys, but I probably tested only two out of three. Yesterday I wanted to test if I can program another key fob if it makes any difference, and to my surprise the central locking worked straight away. And now when I looked into it, this third key looks newer compared to the two others, so most likely the remote locking function has failed in those two and previous owner has purchased a third key because of that.

What is surprising to me, is that I really got a response from the car during programming the non-functional fob. In the end of programming sequence, I got those 2-3 lock-unlock cycles after pressing the lock -button in the fob.

So don't be fooled like me, even though the fob programming steps go as they should and you get a response, the issue can apparently still be in the fob.
 

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