For those who have done the Tundra front axle conversion... (1 Viewer)

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How will this effect articulation/flex? Since the wheel/tire is farther out from the wheel well, could it create a problem when "stuffing" the tire?
@TexAZ @bjowett
 
The number that gets thrown around (would love to see some scientific measurements but I guess the math makes sense 🤷‍♂️) is ~1" more articulation due to the longer arms (1.75" per side). The funny thing is Baja Kits is/has launched a "long travel" kit that is nearly identical to doing the Tundra swap, but prob a few thousand more 😆. Fully stuffs without issue, but if you run aggressive offset (0) you'll run into issues and probably have to lower your bump stops so much you'll negate anything gained from the longer arms.
 
I've been contemplating this mod.

Examining the geometry, it seems that it would be very minimal to no gain in articulation or wheel travel.

The tundra arms are about 1" longer than the 200-series LCA. Thing is, the lower shock mount is also moved 1" farther outboard on the arm. This makes the motion ratio the same, and therefore the travel is the same.

So what would be the advantage of longer arms? For the same stroke, they would be able to operate at less steeper angles, translating to less toe steer as the suspension cycles. Also less track width changes and less odd jacking forces at more extreme lifts.

Some would say it removes the need for spacers. Yet from a suspension geometry POV, using larger 33-35" tires, would have the scrub radius on the negative side of optimal (need less offset with larger diameter tires). So spacers are a good thing for large tires.

For a very lifted rig, I can see reasons to use Tundra arms to improve the geometry.

For an LX, that doesn't need to statically lift as high, the reasons to do the swap would be less. Which is where I find myself, which is to keep the stock 200-series suspension pieces.
 
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The Tundra arms are ~1.75" longer. Forget where that number was verified but the front width after mod was 3.5" wider. Though, I suppose I could measure I have a set of both LCAs in the garage for an Aussie Mud member.
IMG_20191120_145907.jpg


It's the same geometry as what's stock on a Tundra, def no need for spacers if you're really worried about scrub radius you could vary your wheel offset couldn't you? May not be an optimal setup for LX.
 
Great question to ask as I’m considering this as an option running my current ICON setup. Can I just swap out the OEM LCA for the Tundra LCA so my 34.5” tires on 18+offset wheels fit without rubbing? Or is a lot more involved to use the Tundra LCA’s?
 
conversion parts--axle shafts, LCA, UCA, tie rod ends..

I would love to know what the frame dimension differences are between the Tundra and Landcruiser. specifically the control arm mount widths.... I'll try and take some measurements tomorrow

also, the knuckles are different(LC is taller, according to my crude measurements).. not sure how that effects things...
 
conversion parts--axle shafts, LCA, UCA, tie rod ends..

I would love to know what the frame dimension differences are between the Tundra and Landcruiser. specifically the control arm mount widths.... I'll try and take some measurements tomorrow
Mount widths? Everything bolts right in to existing frame mounts so would that make them the same?
 
not sure, I'm curious to know if in fact the frames are the same width?

@Mogwai what wheel offset are you running?
 
The mod also allows you to go full retard if you choose. Overlanddad has the Baja Kits (stock Tundra length) stock Tundra axles and OTs, but 2.5" extended length shocks AND runs 0 offset. Says he may need to roll his fenders .25". He also busted a CV during testing, but I'd attribute a bit of that to the cheap non-OEM axles they swapped in initially. He also has longer bump stops, I asked him to measure how much longer.

Edit: his bumps are 1.25" longer so he's loosing up travel, his tires are 34".
 
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not sure, I'm curious to know if in fact the frames are the same width?

@Mogwai what wheel offset are you running?
The stockers from MY13, I think they are 60? You could easily go to 25 without issue.
IMG_20200104_142643.jpg
 
From what I could tell it looks like Center to Center lower control mount adjustment bolts are about 28 and 1/2 on both my Land Cruiser and Sequoia which would mean the width difference is totally in the arms themselves.. and the frames would be the same width... I will check into this further and also check the differences in the arm as far as coilover Mount location Etc
 
the frames are probably the same width, i've swapped the front differential from a 2010 sequoia into my cruiser to change the gear ratio down to 4.30. dropped right in.
 
The Tundra arms are ~1.75" longer. Forget where that number was verified but the front width after mod was 3.5" wider. Though, I suppose I could measure I have a set of both LCAs in the garage for an Aussie Mud member.
View attachment 2186666

It's the same geometry as what's stock on a Tundra, def no need for spacers if you're really worried about scrub radius you could vary your wheel offset couldn't you? May not be an optimal setup for LX.
Hey @Mogwai , I'm curious if you or anybody else from the Tundra swap group has any leads on a low mileage rust free set of front stock Land Cruiser Lower control arms. I had a set i was going to buy from another mud member, but they ended up having an issue, so I'm back to hunting for another set. My current stock LCA's are at 125k miles and have had the seized bolt for a while. No squeaking yet, but I know the bushings will eventually go, and my only option it this point is to cut off. If i'm going to this trouble, I'd like to replace with a low mileage rust free set at that point anyways. Anybody feel free to DM me if you have any leads. I posted a wanted add a while back but didn't get any responses.

 
So this looks like a great long-arm setup. Does it really increase travel? There was a comment that it didn't, but it sure look like it would. What height aftermarket bumpstop is recommended?

Also why don't LC/LX folks run hydraulic bumps in the back, seems like the right choice for a controlled landing of a very heavy vehicle?
 
Headed to off-road shop and considering a tundra swap so I can possibly ditch my spacers and not need to do a KDSS relo. What kind of cost and what parts do I need to order so they can do it? Also, any down sides of doing this? I don’t want to have a worse driving vehicle or cause more issues down the road. Thanks
 
Headed to off-road shop and considering a tundra swap so I can possibly ditch my spacers and not need to do a KDSS relo. What kind of cost and what parts do I need to order so they can do it? Also, any down sides of doing this? I don’t want to have a worse driving vehicle or cause more issues down the road. Thanks

Are your spacers for looks or to clear the UCA at full bump/lock?
 
Are your spacers for looks or to clear the UCA at full bump/lock?
The spacers were put on to clear the sway bar for my 285/70r18. I just had my new 295/70r18 put with an alignment. It still touches at full lock but easy to just back off a little at full turn. I would prefer to not run spacers if a Tundra conversion would be a worthwhile upgrade
 
The spacers were put on to clear the sway bar for my 285/70r18. I just had my new 295/70r18 put with an alignment. It still touches at full lock but easy to just back off a little at full turn. I would prefer to not run spacers if a Tundra conversion would be a worthwhile upgrade

It can be worthwhile, but I think you might find yourself chasing other issues. You'll have limited thread engagement on the outer tie rods until you upgrade those, increased tension/angle on the sway-bar endlinks, and depending on the wheel offset/tire height, you may run into fender engagement at full bump. I'd be curious if at full bump/lock your tire is clearing the UCA without a spacer, because if not then you'll need the spacer even if you do the swap.
 
The spacers were put on to clear the sway bar for my 285/70r18. I just had my new 295/70r18 put with an alignment. It still touches at full lock but easy to just back off a little at full turn. I would prefer to not run spacers if a Tundra conversion would be a worthwhile upgrade
What are your alignments Numbers/specs? Do you feel like you have more or less room around the KDSS post alignment ? I was hoping you would have been able to gain just enough to clear those 295s….bummer.
 

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