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I’ll have to check after work. I’d need to put the harmonic balancer back on with the bolt first thoAgreed, in for a Penny, in for a Pound.
So how was the valve clearance?
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I’ll have to check after work. I’d need to put the harmonic balancer back on with the bolt first thoAgreed, in for a Penny, in for a Pound.
So how was the valve clearance?
With the spark plugs out and the accessories off the front, there is very little resistance to rotating the internals,I’ll have to check after work. I’d need to put theor
harmonic balancer back on with the bolt first tho
I took the sway bar tie rod, and jack the passenger motor mount up with a floor jack and a 2x4.I'm more interested in how you pulled the oil pans without pulling the engine
I agree with previous advice of you may as well pull the head now. How many times do you want to pull the thing this far apart?
Pulling the head is a lot more time and work, albeit with significant long term upside.
But it also starts the slippery slope ..
- Head rebuild or just gasket....???!?
- new head bolt$?
I did notice the rubber on the HB was a bit hard, would it really be necessary?speaking of balancer, I'd also repalce it with a brand new unit. I know the OEM is mucho $$$ but a Dorman unit is supposedly and I confirmed this, has the same printing as the OEM one. A search will reveal all pics and info on this.
Ditto on the timing chain, slippers, and maybe the fan clutch refresh with new fluid (if you have hot summer months), new spark plugs, spark plug well rubber washers on the valve cover, spark plug wires, upper/lower rad hoses, T-stat, and I think that might be it. Mud OCD is strong with this one.....
I took the sway bar tie rod, and jack the passenger motor mount up with a floor jack and a 2x4.
I’d highly recommend just pulling the engine out tho
New head bolts would be a must if I did the Hg. Do you think I’d run into issues if I rebuild the head and not the block. If the head is rebuilt won’t that put more pressure on the bottom of the block?
I did notice the rubber on the HB was a bit hard, would it really be necessary?
I’ll have to see if the timing chain is in spec when I get home, looks like the slippers might need to be changed… don’t these truck last 300-400k without a major overhaul???? We’re not talking about a ford engine here
Oh you betcha, in neck deep in the "while you're in there". I'm over 10k in OEM parts at the moment, and am wanting to be more realistic with my 25 year old cruiser.The HB rubber cracks are hard to see because you aren't exactly able to force them to open up like you can with suspension bushings. This is one of those "while you're in there" type of things that most of us suffer from.
Agree with you on the timing chain, if it's within specs, leave it alone. These things are built like a tank as you know. I'm at 285k, turboed and still on the original timing chain.
DId you remove the #2 oil pan, which is the beefy oil pan above the actual oil pan ? If you did, then you might as well as to the upper oil pan arch seal project funnery. My writeup on this should still be in the FAQ section.
I'm assuming you're also doing the front main seal and oil pump O ring and re-seal with FIPG, "while you're in there"
A fresh head does .....
You’re supposed to change the oil regularly not the head gasketI am in the middle of one right now. And have done two others.
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Preventative maintenance Bro! Heard of it? Every 3k new HG.You’re supposed to change the oil regularly not the head gasket
When you removed the camshafts did you notice any worn down cam bearing caps?Preventative maintenance Bro! Heard of it? Every 3k new HG.
I did not on the current one I am putting back together. It had a very easy life with oil changes on time.When you removed the camshafts did you notice any worn down cam bearing caps?
Pic 1: exhaust side
Pic 2: #7 exhaust cam bearing
Pic 3: #4 intake cam bearing
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I took the sway bar tie rod, and jack the passenger motor mount up with a floor jack and a 2x4.
I’d highly recommend just pulling the engine out tho
New head bolts would be a must if I did the Hg. Do you think I’d run into issues if I rebuild the head and not the block. If the head is rebuilt won’t that put more pressure on the bottom of the block?
I did notice the rubber on the HB was a bit hard, would it really be necessary?
I’ll have to see if the timing chain is in spec when I get home, looks like the slippers might need to be changed… don’t these truck last 300-400k without a major overhaul???? We’re not talking about a ford engine here
My HB failed at 220k for what it's worth. Rubber life was probably reduced from oil due to a front main leak.
I already dropped it off at the machine shop a few days ago, they asked me to take off the camshaft and the buckets...Do you have the head off for a rebuild?
A good machine shop can mic those and see if it need to be repaired.
Pretty common thing to do for a machine shop.
They plane a bit off the mating surface of the caps, then install them, then line bore it back to spec.
I've had to do this on several motorcycle heads.
Did you get that head back yet? How did it go?I already dropped it off at the machine shop a few days ago, they asked me to take off the camshaft and the buckets...
I did, it’s sitting in the garage right now.Did you get that head back yet? How did it go?