Yup. Fat Amy gets a body lift. (1 Viewer)

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No I didn’t do it. I may do a small (5/8”) body lift at some point.

I haven’t looked yet to see how much stuff will be affected. @MScruiser spent more than a day on it, so it isn't trivial.
 
Some measurements for reference on the OEM bolts front to back...

Front Position 1
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Position 2 (front cab)
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Position 3 (rear cab)
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Rear Position 4
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I can't speak for @MScruiser, but generally the radiator will get dropped according to the height of the body lift. With a very small body lift, you may have clearance around the fan still, but the twisting may cause interference when twisted up offroad, which is a bad place to find out. This was the case with my 80 series BL. My 100 BL came with brackets to drop the radiator, and I will be creating a solution myself for my 200.
 
I machined up a set of 2" for a buddy a few years ago , I have not ruled out making a set of 1" if I need a little extra room .
 
They said it couldn't be done. They were wrong.

I originally decided to do a 2" body lift. I got all the parts and hardware ordered, and got started on Thursday morning. I woke up early Friday and finished installing the lift. It was not easy, and took a lot of careful planning, measuring, and research; seeing that I was One of the first persons to ever attempt this (the only other 200 with a body lift was built from the frame up as racing truck for the Baja 1000 (Canguro Racing)), it was a little nerve-racking. I didn't want to seriously screw up an $80k truck.

I IM'd Kurt Williams, and texted Dave Connors, both with the Canguro Racing team, and they gave me some good advice, and a few pointers. I also spent about an hour on the phone with Robert Brown of 4-Crawler (boy does he like to talk, but a hell of a knowledgable and nice guy).

After a few days to think things over, I dove right in. Pretty straightforward: Disconnect some wires here and there, disconnect the steering linkage, disconnect some panels and brackets, remove the body bolts, and go from there. Way more complex than that, but for time's sake, I'll leave it at that.

I got the 2" lift installed, and checked things out; sure enough, the steering worked fine, and it even shifted into gear just fine too, albeit it didn't feel as "solid" as it used to. I stood back, in order to behold the beauty, and bask in the fact that I tried something so bold, and had a successful tale to tell too.

And then, I noticed some downsides; it was just TOO tall. It just looked ridiculous. I imagined my wife trying to get into it, and pictured my young daughter trying to climb in (when she is old enough to climb). I got cold feet. It was just too much. Also, the ARB bumper CAN NOT be modified, so it was going to be staying where it was. It just looked weird sitting so "low".

So, I cut each 2" spacer in half. I now had a set of 1" spacers. I got back to work, and reinstalled the new 1" spacers. Now...now it looked just right. Went for a test drive. Everything works perfectly. I am a happy man.

Parts diagram, courtesy of @beno
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New hardware from Fastenal (2" UHMW Spacers)
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Getting the TJM off
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Getting to some of the bolt locations
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Old Hardware
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Old Hardware Tac Welded to New Fastenal Grade 8 Bolts
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Old TJM mounting holes
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New holes have been drilled ~1.25" above the old ones
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Jacking up the body
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In position and painted
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Body lift is done on the passenger's side
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TJM Bumper is installed (note: upper trim pieces are not shown in the pic, but fit just fine)
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The ARB will not be able to be modified. I will have to find some trim to fill the new gap, which shouldn't be too hard.
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Fastenal near me says they do not carry UHMW spacers. Where can I get 1" spacers?
 
Fastenal near me says they do not carry UHMW spacers. Where can I get 1" spacers?
I purchased my bulk UHMW from 4crawler.com 👍🏼
 
Is a steering shaft spacer not necessary?
I don’t believe it is for a small 1” body lift but I can’t make a recommendation for over that. For reference, I do not have a steering extension and am probably close to 1 5/8” body lift around the steering shaft area, and I loosened the clamping portion visible from the Driver’s fender well but I failed to mark where it was at the start to see how much it moved. So I’m no longer a good reference for how to properly or safely 😬 accommodate the steering shaft. Sorry.

The proper way would be to mark the factory location first, then disconnect completely and see how much overlap there is and make a judgement call on the safe minimum at that point and see how far it comes out for the lift you’re planning. At least I think this is the proper way, which I did not do 🤦🏻‍♂️
 
anybody got the diameter of the lift pucks? just trying to avoid recreating the wheel if I can!
 
anybody got the diameter of the lift pucks? just trying to avoid recreating the wheel if I can!
In my notes I have position 1 & 4 as 2.9” diameter and positions 2 & 3 as 3.9”, but what I ordered from Roger Brown didn’t quite fit in the #1 position and I had to have it machined down a little. It’s been a little while for my memory, and I’m thinking 2.5” & 3.5” would be good, but I’ll double check tomorrow for you since I have some leftover material.
 
I measured and I have 3.5” diameter in locations 2 & 3. 2.25” in position 1 (front most) and 3” in position 4 (rear)

Hope that helps 🤙🏼
 
I measured and I have 3.5” diameter in locations 2 & 3. 2.25” in position 1 (front most) and 3” in position 4 (rear)

Hope that helps 🤙🏼
awesome man thanks!
 
Would love it if a forum vendor could sell a 1-1.25” body lift kit that is tested and “just works” that I could have my local off-road shop install for me. (hint)
 
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