- Thread starter
- #41
Cheat code unlocked. That rear axle is doing some obscene things. Well done!
Long Travel AHC (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Cheat code unlocked. That rear axle is doing some obscene things. Well done!
Where is the NSFW tag? Damn.
Shoot, I forgot that one. I assumed everyone was done for the day!
I'll be updating those bumps with Timbrens, but honestly another .5 drop on the rear bump would keep the 35 off the inner fender. Plus it's a very acceptable amount of rubbing. Absolutely no binding, creaking or weird noises of any kind.
30mm of front spacers and 20mm rear spacers and raised that rear shock mount 2 inches. 0 compromise to the ride. Since I did a proper flush, the truck feels brand new, my wife even said something in the morning about "how great it drives now...what did you do."
Looks like you've got a good recipe, kudos! A few questions:
How did you achieve the 30mm front spacers? And that actually provides lift since it's the strut spacer correct? I've asked a local shop in your area to stack 2 of the OEM 10mm spacers and they declined.
How are the rear shocks not bottoming out on compression if you raised the lower mount 2" and haven't extended the bumpstops down? Do they really have that much wasted compression in stock form? This is a great idea that I wanted to do to my 80 for 15 years until I found a vendor that actually made a longer shock that was bolt in. It's a shame we can't find replacement shocks that are ~2" or so longer that will bolt in front and rear (provide the lift) and give the extra droop when we add bigger tires and limit up-travel a bit.
@TeCKis300 posted the photo of one of his rear shocks cut open in one of his first posts on this thread showing that there was quite a bit of unused shaft according to the wear marks on the shaft. ~45mm. He also thought there was an internal bumpstop inside the shock to protect it.
I recently did the same lower shock mount move and based on Paul’s photos, conversations with him and just some educated guessing on my part, I chose to only do 3/4” bumpstop extensions, but that is inside of larger Timbrens. On my recent shakedown run, I didn’t hear any sort of over compression or hard hits that might indicate it was not stopping soon enough.
Last edited:
Similar to what @MTKID mentioned, there is unused travel, this was documented by @TeCKis300 dissection. I dropped my rear bump by just under 1 inch for the time being, just to get the tire off the inner fender. I need to install the timbrens when I feel motivated.
With that being said, the droop is where it counts. Especially for H mode. I’m fully pushed on a sensor lift, the additional suspension changes have made the truck ride incredibly well, in all heights and modes.
I pushed it hard last weekend and never once felt or heard any compression bottoming indicators.
Your 100% adding substantial travel by adding spacers and raising the shock mounts, but above anything moving the starting stroke point even more. That’s where the magic happens.
Last edited:
I used a 30mm tundra spec spacer from eBay. To stack two oems you need to use longer studs. Thus disassembling the entire coil-over. I’m sure most shops would decline based on that step.
TN LX570
SILVER Star
Does anyone happen to know off hand the stock rear shock length, compressed and extended?
TN LX570
SILVER Star
Thanks @lx200inAR. Is that going from the center of the eyelet? Or the end?
The ends.
- Thread starter
- #53
Inquiring minds want to know. Just refreshing shocks... or long travel?!
I definitely have been tracking this thread. But I have spare rear shocks from a shop snafu right after I bought my LX and I ended I up with a pair on the shelf. I was going to do some more research on the difference between extending the shock length or moving the mount up higher on the axle. I will probably swap them out when I get into adding my spacers. I already have the OEM front strut spacers and a set of spring spacers for the rear.
TN LX570
SILVER Star
LX600 shocks arrived today. Lots of unknowns ahead, but I think there may be some potential here. 
TN LX570
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #57
Now we're talking!!!
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Wouldn't you have to be careful with using longer travel shocks, because there is only so much volume the globes can handle? Maybe get some lx600 globes too?
TN LX570
SILVER Star
Yes, that’s a valid point. There’s going to be a lot of trial and error to see how the system reacts.
- Thread starter
- #60
Good point and it's something to watch.
I believe the accumulators have some margin of extra volume when new. As they wear and lose nitrogen pressure, hydraulic fluid will displace more volume to engage needed pressure. Until its failure mode where the membrane ruptures or there's not enough air volume that they start bottoming out. So perhaps a question is whether there's enough extra volume to handle the longer shocks and the accumulators degrade gracefully with useful life? Would also be interesting to compare part numbers on the accumulators.
If we assume volume is partially a function of nitrogen pressure. We know the front and rear globes are physically the same. Only charged to different pressures (and different part numbers). I wonder if the higher charged rears could be used all around to further provide volume margin? Or if that was by design as the rear shocks have much more travel and potential hydraulic volume displacement (if the shaft is the same diameter?).
@TN LX570 I've wondered if the LX600 AHC could work too. More questions about integration. Hopefully all the interfaces dimensionally drop right in. I still have yet to cut-up my old shocks but it's been said the front shocks have some minimal shim stacks. Wonder how the valving on the LX600 compares. Though it probably will be compensated for to a degree by active feedback with remote damping.
I need a free weekend to pull some more dimensions and numbers from my old shocks...
