Stainless Valves For My F.5 - Maybe (1 Viewer)

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Steamer

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Jul 20, 2009
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Location
Miami, FL
I’m going to get my head checked out, serviced, or rebuilt but I don’t want the hassle of packing, shipping, and down time, so I’ll use a sort of local shop called the “Cylinder Head Depot” that is 45 minutes away. If the condition of the head dictates, I would like to go with the stainless steel, Chevy valves and associated parts. If I have the Chevy valve discussion with the shop, I want to be as informed as possible, so we can communicate well, stay on point, and have a positive outcome.

The process and parts info I’m finding here on Mud has all been about 2Fs. However, when I search OEM valve train part numbers, I see that the F.5 and the 2F share the same valves, guides, springs, retainers, and locks. So, it appears that the stainless parts info I gather from the 2F conversions would apply to my F.5. I’m hoping someone can confirm this.

I haven’t found all the parts info in one thread so I’ve been gathering bits & pieces and putting it together so I can print it out and if the shop has any doubts or questions, I can present my info to them and say this is what I want.

So, what I’m hoping for, is that someone here in the know would look over what I’ve put together and let me know if my part numbers will work. Also, any additional info, part manufactures, or part numbers would be most welcome.

Here is what I’ve gathered so far. And thanks in advance for any input.

Manley.jpg


Ferrea.jpg


Melling Springs.jpg


Seals.jpg
 
:popcorn:
 
Outside of all the carbon, nothing major stands out. To me anyway.

HeadWork 01.jpg


HeadWork 02.jpg


HeadWork 04.jpg


HeadWork 03.jpg
 
Head is in the shop. Their hot tank has been out of service for a while waiting on parts. It’s up and running now and they are backed up but catching up. So, I’m in line for a hot tank, magna flux, vacuum test, whatever else they do and then we’ll go from there. In the meantime, I’ll do some cooling jacket cleaning. Trying out these brushes and contemplating the pressure washer but we’ll see how this goes.

 
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Giving this thread a bump since it has yet to get a response. I’m hoping someone in the know can confirm this mod will work on an F.5. I’d also like to know if the parts I’m showing will work for this mod. Thanks for “any” input
 
I don’t have any help or knowledge on this, hopefully someone with some will chime in. But I am curious about the water jacket cleaning shown in the above video, especially the clean-out plugs for the cylinders. Have you done this and used those plugs?
 
The Cherne 3” Clean-Out plugs worked out well. I modified them a bit. I swapped the bolt for a longer carriage bolt so I could add the fender washer to get a grip on them to yank them out. I tightened them down to near max expansion and with some oil they push in very snug making a good seal. I think they're intended to insert and then tighten, but it’s faster with them set once and they pop in with a heavy hand push or slight hammer tap. They come out with a good yank. I’m thinking the next size up (3-1/2”) may have worked better as the expansion rate is a fair amount. I’d try just one of the 3-1/2s just to see. The 3” might not get tight enough at max expansion on a 2F. Best price I found was at Zoro Tools. And of course the engine needs to be rotated so none of the pistons are at top dead center. I just rotate till pistons 3 & 4 coming up get even with 2 & 5 going down. The silicone plugs are powder coating plugs from Amazon. HERE & HERE. HTH.
 
@Steamer did you use a pressure washer? I have a fair amount of sludge in the deep pockets of the water jacket, trying to figure out the best way to get it in suspension so it can drain out the block drain.
 
@Steamer did you use a pressure washer? I have a fair amount of sludge in the deep pockets of the water jacket, trying to figure out the best way to get it in suspension so it can drain out the block drain.
I haven’t used a pressure washer on it, but that’s a good idea. So far, I let it get dry and I’ve been using a variety of brushes & probes and then blowing it out with air.

Have you seen the flushing setups that myself and others have used? One setup of mine was circulating chemical of choice and one setup was a manifold with quick opening ball valves using one for water and one for compressed air. Rapid alternations between 180 lb. air and city water pressure created a somewhat violent turbulence that did well at shaking stuff loose that was unaffected by chemicals. Here’s a few links “LINK 1” “LINK 2”
 
Good stuff @Steamer, looks like you’ve been through this rodeo a bunch of times. I‘m going to focus on “dry” approaches as the sludge drys out. Good luck with the build and search wrt SS valves.
 
I know I am a bit late to the party but a few years ago I had my F.5 head rebuilt with Chevy valves and used V6 beehive springs with similar spring pressures. Was a very easy swap. Dont remember any of the part numbers.
 
I appreciate the response Rusty & the confirmation that it’s doable on the F.5. You’re not late, as the shop’s hot tank went down. Antique, odd ball framed 3 phase motor on it gave out and they couldn’t find a replacement. Finally found a shop to rewind it so it’s up & running now. Went up there a few days ago and saw mine in a long, backed up line of heads & blocks waiting to get hot tanked.
 
I sent a message to the guy that rebuilt the engine about what valves & parts he used. If my memory is correct... he used 2005 5.3 vortec valves and 1999 lumina 3.1 V6 valve springs.
That would be helpful. Thanks!
 
The valve spring are 3.1 V6. They have the same open and closed pressures with the correct height. The valves are LS but not sure from what LS. Just will need to match up the sizes. LS and the 5.3 Vortec are in the same engine family. After all of the problems I had with incorrectly installed main bearings then a camshaft ground with lobe center too close was fixed it actually ran very well.
 
The valve spring are 3.1 V6. They have the same open and closed pressures with the correct height. The valves are LS but not sure from what LS. Just will need to match up the sizes. LS and the 5.3 Vortec are in the same engine family. After all of the problems I had with incorrectly installed main bearings then a camshaft ground with lobe center too close was fixed it actually ran very well.

To anyone who knows F/2F valve springs (same), does this look correct? These were the specs I found on the 3.1 V6 springs

Closed Pressure (psi)72
Coil Bind Height (in)1.166
Coil Bind Height (mm)29.62
Grade TypeRegular
Inside Diameter (IN)0.650
Inside Diameter (MM)16.51
MaterialCorrosion Resistant Steel
Open Height (in)1.260
Open Height (mm)32.00
Open Pressure (psi)233
Outside Diameter (IN)1.074
Outside Diameter (MM)27.28
 
I just wanted to sum up the outcome of this caper. After all the research, I just was not confident I had enough info to persist in the stainless conversion. And that along with realizing after my head was disassembled and hot tanked that the shop was willing to do anything I wanted but were not keen on figuring out all the parts I needed by themselves. They do mostly stock rebuilds with quick turnarounds and even have a lot of common rebuilt heads on the shelf ready to go. But for something out of stock, they wanted me to take the lead. So anyway, my head got rebuilt with all the stock parts coming from Toyota and I am confident I got a quality job. To do it again I would approach it differently. Not the outcome I was hoping for, but it will do. The head is back on, but I am a ways from start up, as I took a lot of things off and apart for some cleanup and painting and then there is all the other stuff life brings you so you cannot just spend every day, all day working on your rig. But we will get her done.
 
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Just wanted to update this thread. The worn cam & lifter problem prolonged getting this finished but it’s done and explained at the end of my “Cam & Lifter Woes” thread.
 

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