Can you describe the minimal mods to the brackets to make them work. Did it require welding I assume?
What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (29 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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Can you describe the minimal mods to the brackets to make them work. Did it require welding I assume?
I explained it a little better in this post here. (Link)
you basically drill one hole in the sliders and use and existing hole to mount them to the bottom of the seats, leave the inner bracket alone, and drill the rivets out of the outer brackets and move them over 3/4 inch and reweld them. It was pretty simple and only took an hour or two to do
i have SKUNK-WORK'd up these while key-punching in JAPAN , 
100% OEM Toyota Genuine Parts ...
100% OEM Toyota Genuine Parts ...
NOS NEW OEM TOYOTA AIR CLEANER FILTER BOX HOUSING 3pc CLAMPS SET KIT F , 2F 3B FJ40 FJ60 BJ40 ALL LAND CRUISERS USE THESE SAME CLAMPS ! - VintageTEqParts.com
NOS NEW OEM TOYOTA GENUINE PARTS AIR CLEANER FILTER BOX HOUSING 3pc CLAMPS SET F , 2F 3B FJ40...
vintageteqparts.com
NOS NEW OEM TOYOTA AIR CLEANER FILTER BOX HOUSING 3pc CLAMPS SET KIT F , 2F 3B FJ40 FJ60 BJ40 ALL LAND CRUISERS USE THESE SAME CLAMPS ! - VintageTEqParts.com
NOS NEW OEM TOYOTA GENUINE PARTS AIR CLEANER FILTER BOX HOUSING 3pc CLAMPS SET F , 2F 3B FJ40...
vintageteqparts.com
Wired in a Split Second Enricher, which alters the signal from the O2 sensors so you can add fuel in closed loop. It was lean up to 3 psi, now I'm around 12.5 in that range but once I hit 4+ lbs of boost it goes to 17 even 18 for a sec then afr drops back down. Fueling just seems all over the place right now and I think I'm going to end up going Megasquirt. Need the MS for dummies guide lol. I'm sure I'm missing some inputs on the 3FE the MS will need like crank position sensor and maybe others. Committed to the turbo though that's for sure.
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Laid down the top coat on the ute.
Jason
Jason
AussieHJCruza
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Have you had this on a dyno? Be interested to know what she makes! On an engine management note, I've been very happy with my Wolf but I don't think they're supported much in the states?
TexasLandCruiser
SILVER Star
FJ Parts factory mirrors, Rust Farmer reproduction cabin vents, splash guards from factory, replaced some bolts from Vintage cause he’s got handy indented and captured bolts in bulk. AND certainly not the least but we had an exorcism of the wiring kind. It was awful #needanapnow
I would love to put it on a dyno, but I live in a pretty remote area and the closest one is probably 8 hours away.
I've been reading the microsquirt manual and I think this is the way I'm going to go.
DickM
SILVER Star
Installed the hood support gas strut mod to get rid of the factory springs/prop rod.
Huge thanks to @Spook50 for his write up and diligence on keeping part numbers current in it-
Hood shock conversion writeup (with pics) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hood-shock-conversion-writeup-with-pics.95168/
Current price from McMaster-Carr parts w/shipping right at $130
Huge thanks to @Spook50 for his write up and diligence on keeping part numbers current in it-
Hood shock conversion writeup (with pics) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hood-shock-conversion-writeup-with-pics.95168/
Current price from McMaster-Carr parts w/shipping right at $130
I'm swapping out a leaky heat core today (and maybe into next weekend). There are three options with this job: 1) do it yourself; 2) pay a shop lots of $$$$ and save yourself the aggravation; 3) burn it to the ground.
I'm deep into #1 but #3 is still an option.
I'm deep into #1 but #3 is still an option.
cruiserinsanity
SILVER Star
Are the splash guards still available from Toyota?
I did this job a few weeks ago. Total pain in the ass, but it sure is nice to drive and not see coolant leaking into the floor... keep at it! You'll be glad when you're done!
started installing injection pump! the injection lines are a real pain but nothing like you heater core guys!!
hope to fire it up this week sometime once i finishing buttoning up the front
of the engine
hope to fire it up this week sometime once i finishing buttoning up the front
Leak developed last spring after I replaced a leaky radiator and since the weather was warm I capped off the lines under the hood. Cooler weather is sort of approaching so I'm replacing the core. I had a spare and I refreshed the o-rings plus added a bead of sealant to avoid leakage at the connections and as it turned out the leak with the old core is at one of the o-ring connections.
This weekend I wheeled it on the Sourgrass Trail, the two previous weekends and the week connecting them I was on the Rubicon trail leading the Wagon Run for TLCA’s Rubithon event. The newly swapped 1HD-T performed perfectly. The low rpm torque makes my 163:1 final ratio feel even bigger. Always such a fun trip and great people!
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Yes, or for much less, you can get a thicker (1/8" EPDM- Chemical resistant) version from us with clips.
Jason
Apron Seals
Toyota Land Cruiser 60 Series Reproduction apron seals OEM apron seals are still available from Toyota, for twice the price in a thinner material Set includes driver's side replacement apron seal and passenger's side replacement apron seal with installation clips
www.trail-tailor.com
Dude your rig is legendary. So nicely built!
Started reassembling the front axle with the new steering setup. Waiting on a few more parts to show up this week, but hoping to have it back on the road next weekend. I'll need to find some time after hours at work to make some bumpstop extensions before I can take it out on some trails to see if the bump-steer and general steering performance is improved with the flatter link angles though.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Finally found the culprit of my bogging, stuttering, stalling issue. Unattached EFI ground was hidden from sight up in the fuel rail wiring. Apparently I didn’t reconnect it from when I replaced my intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Took a while to figure this one out as I had some other self inflicted gremlins during my H55 swap.
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The high steer will be really nice but you really should put some 4-degree spring shims in. Watch out for contact between drag link and frame on the left side at full bump
