460 on 35's (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Agreed! This is what I needed to do with my 315/70R17 BFG A/T's. I keep getting (just a wee bit) rubbing in the same location. Took it into an alignment shop and told them what I needed done, basically move the caster all the way forward, and the fixed the problem.
Now I have slight rubbing on the LCA's or frame, but only at hard lock-to-lock. I'm going to add some thin wheel spacers which should correct that.
Personally I'd still prefer the 285/75R17's I had before, but instead of the M/T's I had, I'd go with BFG A/T's. I ONLY went with the 315's solely because tires were SO scarce late last year and I really need some new tires. Now the size I want is available (of course now that I have the larger size...).
Your offset is -10? Or 0?
I was under the impression -10 would clear the lca and UCA but I wonder if I need -38.
Also, no upper wheel well issues at full stuff?
 
Again, just to be clear, here are my wheel spec's:
Icon 1417858347BR
Six Speed 17" x 8.50" Wheel - Bronze
Specifications:
  • Product Line: Six Speed
  • Color/Finish: Bronze
  • Material: Aluminum Alloy
  • Wheel Diameter: 17"
  • Wheel Width: 8.50"
  • Bolt Pattern: 6 x 5.5
  • Backspace: 4.750"
  • Offset: 0 mm
  • Bore: 108 mm
  • Load Rating: 2500 lb
  • Weight: 30 lb
Here's the Icon website for the wheel: Six Speed / Bronze - Icon Alloys - Icon Vehicle Dynamics - https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/wheel/8706/icon-alloys-six-speed/1417858347BR/?finishID=22
 
Again, just to be clear, here are my wheel spec's:
Icon 1417858347BR
Six Speed 17" x 8.50" Wheel - Bronze
Specifications:
  • Product Line: Six Speed
  • Color/Finish: Bronze
  • Material: Aluminum Alloy
  • Wheel Diameter: 17"
  • Wheel Width: 8.50"
  • Bolt Pattern: 6 x 5.5
  • Backspace: 4.750"
  • Offset: 0 mm
  • Bore: 108 mm
  • Load Rating: 2500 lb
  • Weight: 30 lb
Here's the Icon website for the wheel: Six Speed / Bronze - Icon Alloys - Icon Vehicle Dynamics - https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/wheel/8706/icon-alloys-six-speed/1417858347BR/?finishID=22
Thanks! Seems to me then a -10 would work to clear the 12.5 width.
Any issues with the hub bore on those? I thought the GX’s was 106.1.
 
Thanks! Seems to me then a -10 would work to clear the 12.5 width.
Any issues with the hub bore on those? I thought the GX’s was 106.1.
They fit perfectly. I did not do the initial mounting, but I did not hear of any issues and any time I personally have taken them off, they see fine.
They fit well, are concentric and appears to have plenty of room.
 
They fit perfectly. I did not do the initial mounting, but I did not hear of any issues and any time I personally have taken them off, they see fine.
They fit well, are concentric and appears to have plenty of room.
Did a little digging, it seems that a 108mm hub bore is fine over a 106.1 hub, as long as you have the correct lugs that center the wheel. (That’s the missing piece I didn’t know about)
Figured I’d post for those, like me that are shopping for wheels. So many options out there, it boggles the mind a bit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
Did a little digging, it seems that a 108mm hub bore is fine over a 106.1 hub, as long as you have the correct lugs that center the wheel. (That’s the missing piece I didn’t know about)
Figured I’d post for those, like me that are shopping for wheels. So many options out there, it boggles the mind a bit.
For lug nuts, I recommend Gorilla 21134etbc. These will center the wheels and provide a little extra bite.
Some wheels have a 108mm bore because the center cap mounts from the back and act as a hub-centric ring (like Method MR305).
If the wheel does not have a cap like this, i would recommend the 1mm centering ring.
 
-10 off set and max caster is key to fitting 35x12.5. Just ask the new owner of the GX 😂

231C5A9C-FA47-43CB-B356-B3053E99AA05.jpeg
 
Did a little digging, it seems that a 108mm hub bore is fine over a 106.1 hub, as long as you have the correct lugs that center the wheel. (That’s the missing piece I didn’t know about)
Figured I’d post for those, like me that are shopping for wheels. So many options out there, it boggles the mind a bit.
Also M12 x 1.5 Lug nut - Extended Shank - For Icon Wheels - 4Runner, GX470, GX460, FJC and Tacoma - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/stf1307/
 
I thought I would throw my update on here. I ended up going with 285/75/17s. My biggest concern was articulation without rubbing, and with cutting/pounding welds I have achieved that. Those of you with the metal tech rear bumper, be careful 35s could be real dicey through articulation.
CCE83FB9-EF92-44E5-A0EE-2DA67DF1E573.jpeg


91F26B61-B1EB-49F6-A357-3EC6B583F728.jpeg
 
I thought I would throw my update on here. I ended up going with 285/75/17s. My biggest concern was articulation without rubbing, and with cutting/pounding welds I have achieved that. Those of you with the metal tech rear bumper, be careful 35s could be real dicey through articulation.
View attachment 3110751

View attachment 3110752
Whoa thats close! Looks good though.
 
I thought I would throw my update on here. I ended up going with 285/75/17s. My biggest concern was articulation without rubbing, and with cutting/pounding welds I have achieved that. Those of you with the metal tech rear bumper, be careful 35s could be real dicey through articulation.
View attachment 3110751

View attachment 3110752
Yep, that's just about where my old tires sat when compressed. Same tires (285/75R17's) same bumper.
1662845171341.png
 
Those Enkei RPT1's look great! I wish they made them in a 5x150 for the Cruiser.
 
Here is a pic of my 305/70R18’s kinda stuffed.
Rear links are extended, rear bumper is trimmed.

View attachment 3145322

View attachment 3145323
Which links? Are they actually extended or just adjustable? How does the kdss bar play with the extended links, and do you have extended travel shocks in the back?
Last question, do you have extended bumps?

I’m about to put 315s on, and I got the metal tech extended bump brackets, but have stock links at the moment with extended travel shocks.
 
Which links? Are they actually extended or just adjustable? How does the kdss bar play with the extended links, and do you have extended travel shocks in the back?
Last question, do you have extended bumps?

I’m about to put 315s on, and I got the metal tech extended bump brackets, but have stock links at the moment with extended travel shocks.
I'm running the Icon rear links (tubular upper/billet lower) and panhard bar. I pushed the rear axle back .5" to clear the rear door and trimmed the bumper. Now I hit the the pinch weld for the quarter panel.
I have the Fox extended shocks, extended durobump bump stops, Eimkeith PCK, KDSS spacers. Everything seems to work together nicely.
 
I'm running the Icon rear links (tubular upper/billet lower) and panhard bar. I pushed the rear axle back .5" to clear the rear door and trimmed the bumper. Now I hit the the pinch weld for the quarter panel.
I have the Fox extended shocks, extended durobump bump stops, Eimkeith PCK, KDSS spacers. Everything seems to work together nicely.
Thanks for the info, I think adjustable links are in my future. Along with long travel shocks in the rear. (Already have the springs) Saving my money for a kdss compatible long travel front set up.
 
I thought I would throw my update on here. I ended up going with 285/75/17s. My biggest concern was articulation without rubbing, and with cutting/pounding welds I have achieved that. Those of you with the metal tech rear bumper, be careful 35s could be real dicey through articulation.
View attachment 3110751

View attachment 3110752

looks good. did you need to do a cab mount chop, or just beat back the pinch weld?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom