Year identification help (1 Viewer)

[CT40]

I picked up what was sold as a 1976 FJ40 a couple of months ago and now that I'm starting to look at sourcing some replacement bits and pieces, I'm trying to nail down exactly what I have.

The PO who imported from Columbia had a replacement VIN # put in place by North Carolina DMV (its a sticker that has the VIN as NCS######), which is what I used when transferring the title to me here in CT. From the VIN lookup at lcnation, I've got a 9/75 VIN based on the firewall inside the engine compartment (FJ40209326). There's no VIN plate by the driver side door - just the NCS sticker. From what people have said that have seen the pictures from the BAT posting, the tub is likely a '79. How do I go about verifying what year the tub actually is? The link with a bunch of pics is here.

Thanks!!

 

[bhsdriller]

Not sure what year it started but without the gas tank under the passenger seat it's a later tub

 

[TLCJC]

It’s going to be tough to figure out with South American origin? Prepare for some heat on MUD.

Congrats no matter what though. It’s a fun toy no matter what.

Photos of the numbers on its engine and frame VIN?

Spare tire carrier is 1975.

 

[MadmanCruiser]

79+ tub (thats the first year the gas tank went underneath), not sure when the brake light on the dash came in, but fairly certain that is later than 76. I had the same tire carrier on my 75. I believe the hand brake moved to the floor around 79 as well...definitely by 80...someone who knows more needs to chime in. Steering wheel is correct for 79 I think, that changed in 80 as well. Might be parts off of a lot of trucks here. Congrats on your first!

 

[CT40]

I'm kind of getting that impression @MadmanCruiser that its a bit of a catch-all from a lot of places. I kind of expected that considering the price I got it at. I wasn't looking for a show car or something perfect - just something I can have fun in, learn how to work on cars, and my kids can have fun riding with me.

I'll see if I can find the VIN #'s on engine and frame. But for now I'll kind of assume the tub at least is 79+ -- need to source a new gas cap since the old is on the highway somewhere after I ran out of gas and forgot to put it back on (gauge is off by about a 1/4 tank, and the odometer only rolls the tenths, so hard to figure out gas). $22 from SOR so even if I'm wrong - won't break the bank.

 

[SergP]

Check the engine head number (on the top, outside valve cover)... first single digit is a year: year ... 61xxx(model) ... month/day..
Your tub is 79+ BUT it is an SA market tub.. some parts are not exactly as in the US market 79+ tub....
For example: your rear sill (rear floor) looks like pre 75 not as US 79+

 

[tls3601]

So many of these South American rigs are a mish mash, I also believe there was another company that made tops for rigs in South America as well? One of the reasons non domestic versions typically don’t have the resale and then of course tracking down original parts can be a real adventure. That said I would still love to get my hands on a Troopy, we got robbed here in the USA by never getting them

 

[Living in the Past]

Columbia hard top. The VIN charts are for all FJ40s not just US market. Check the frame VIN against the chart.

 

[Living in the Past]

Plaque under the hood would be 9/75 but obviously false. Transmission is pre 8/80. Later would be a split transfer case with a crossmember under the transmission.

Would check all glass in the hard top against a Toyota made top. Think you will it's different. Corner glass breaks probably easier find a OEM top made in Japan than finding a replacement piece of glass.

 

[MadmanCruiser]

I'm kind of getting that impression @MadmanCruiser that its a bit of a catch-all from a lot of places. I kind of expected that considering the price I got it at. I wasn't looking for a show car or something perfect - just something I can have fun in, learn how to work on cars, and my kids can have fun riding with me.

I'll see if I can find the VIN #'s on engine and frame. But for now I'll kind of assume the tub at least is 79+ -- need to source a new gas cap since the old is on the highway somewhere after I ran out of gas and forgot to put it back on (gauge is off by about a 1/4 tank, and the odometer only rolls the tenths, so hard to figure out gas). $22 from SOR so even if I'm wrong - won't break the bank.

You will have lots of fun. Surely some gremlins, but to be expected with a truck this old. You can fix the odometer yourself, somewhere on Mud there is a thread about fixing it (I did it 15-20 years ago myself). Lots of talk of replacing the bulbs in the cluster with LED as well (while you are in there), the original method was to pull off the shroud that covers the bulbs, but LED allows you to increase the brightness without butchering your cluster. Lots of resources here and smart people to help you. Ih8mud is your friend

 

[1969FJ]

I picked up what was sold as a 1976 FJ40 a couple of months ago and now that I'm starting to look at sourcing some replacement bits and pieces, I'm trying to nail down exactly what I have.

The PO who imported from Columbia had a replacement VIN # put in place by North Carolina DMV (its a sticker that has the VIN as NCS######), which is what I used when transferring the title to me here in CT. From the VIN lookup at lcnation, I've got a 9/75 VIN based on the firewall inside the engine compartment (FJ40209326). There's no VIN plate by the driver side door - just the NCS sticker. From what people have said that have seen the pictures from the BAT posting, the tub is likely a '79. How do I go about verifying what year the tub actually is? The link with a bunch of pics is here.

Thanks!!

Your frame number puts build late 1974.

Land Cruiser Frame Numbers

www.sor.com

 

[CT40]

Frame # matches the VIN plate, at least. Who knows if its legitimate though (see pic). I also found a stamp on the left side of the engine with the # 61010 that looks like it could be Nov/Dec '75 (couldn't find the tab on the right side where most of the guidance said to look).

You will have lots of fun. Surely some gremlins, but to be expected with a truck this old. You can fix the odometer yourself, somewhere on Mud there is a thread about fixing it (I did it 15-20 years ago myself). Lots of talk of replacing the bulbs in the cluster with LED as well (while you are in there), the original method was to pull off the shroud that covers the bulbs, but LED allows you to increase the brightness without butchering your cluster. Lots of resources here and smart people to help you. Ih8mud is your friend

Yep - def going to have fun with it even if it is a hodgepodge of stuff. I have a bunch of mud links on fixing the odometer, some good advice on cleaning up the bouncing speedo, and I'll be doing a deep dive into the electrical over the winter since its a mess of half-working switches and bad lighting.

Plaque under the hood would be 9/75 but obviously false. Transmission is pre 8/80. Later would be a split transfer case with a crossmember under the transmission.

Would check all glass in the hard top against a Toyota made top. Think you will it's different. Corner glass breaks probably easier find a OEM top made in Japan than finding a replacement piece of glass.

Hard top is definitely SA aftermarket and not original - from a company called Fivres I think. Same with the ambulance doors (even the busted one). Once foxfab (mud guy nearby in RI) does my roll cage this winter, I'll likely be moving to a bikini or soft top for the most part anyway. Here in CT, driving this thing in the winter is a quick trip to having to buy a new one while the old one rots out from under me.

My biggest issue outside of all that is transmission issues - some grinding going from 3rd to 4th (only while in motion), and just the other night got some goofiness between 1st and 2nd. Hoping that was just a 1time thing but ... we'll see. I can fill my engine knowledge in a teaspoon, so this problem will be going to a shop for proper repair.

 

[jblatz]

Your VIN plate is a reproduction. The model information is incomplete. The values for color/trim are both color codes. 309 is Freeborn Red, 031 is White.

Differences between your plate and an original
-corners have larger radius
-smaller margin at the top
-bolder circle around the TEQ logo
-smaller margin at the bottom
-some Japanese characters have less detail

An original plate.

 

[sterling]

Nice acquisition. Yes people will flame the SA trucks somewhat.
Most of the hate is from flippers trying to pass off SA trucks as NA trucks to make $. Labor is cheap in SA and most trucks will have lots of underlying issues.
Enjoy it for what it is!
The top is a dead giveaway of the origin, I dig the sliding rear windows.
Have fun.
If you need any specific 79 year pics for reference reach out.

 

[CT40]

Yep I see a lot of flaming of the SA trucks. I have no interest in flipping - just something I can enjoy learning, working on, AND using. There are always going to be purists, which is fine for them, but doesn't mean thats the only path to ownership.

The rear sliding windows are great - some really good airflow to the rear part of the cabin while moving.

Nice acquisition. Yes people will flame the SA trucks somewhat.
Most of the hate is from flippers trying to pass off SA trucks as NA trucks to make $. Labor is cheap in SA and most trucks will have lots of underlying issues.
Enjoy it for what it is!
The top is a dead giveaway of the origin, I dig the sliding rear windows.
Have fun.
If you need any specific 79 year pics for reference reach out.

 

[65swb45]

Plan on resealing your manifolds at some point. Someone put adhesive on the intake ports. Gasoline is going to eat through that.