Thanks guys! Just to clarify I already bought the land cruiser heritage wheels which are 18". It fits the style and level of mods I'm willing to commit without getting into revamping the suspension immediately. I don't plan on attacking technical climbs and am just trying to primarily figure out the size, load and rating I should be going for in that rim size. Like if I go with LT tires am I going to regret the stiffness?
LX 570/ AHC Wheel and Tire Info and Pics (4 Viewers)
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Diff Kraken
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You will not regret a C rated tire. They're pretty comfy.
If you don’t regret your 21s now, I doubt you will regret going to even the stiffest ATs. I went from P rated 31.5“ tires on 20” wheels to 34” LT E Load tires on 17” rims and my overall ride got much more compliant.
with the TRD wheels, if you aren’t willing to run spacers, then I think a LT275/70R18 is probably the best compromise for all round ability. If you are willing to run a 1” spacer, that opens up options to go a little bigger (Taller and wider). Personally in my admitted limited experience I wouldnot do anything smaller than a LT 33” tire on a LX. I wouldn’t be scared of D/E loads, but if the tire you like comes in a C, I’m sure it’s good.
the 275/70R18 may require a little plastic massaging to eliminate rub, but should be very minimal. A 285/65R18 may fit a little better.
with the TRD wheels, if you aren’t willing to run spacers, then I think a LT275/70R18 is probably the best compromise for all round ability. If you are willing to run a 1” spacer, that opens up options to go a little bigger (Taller and wider). Personally in my admitted limited experience I wouldnot do anything smaller than a LT 33” tire on a LX. I wouldn’t be scared of D/E loads, but if the tire you like comes in a C, I’m sure it’s good.
the 275/70R18 may require a little plastic massaging to eliminate rub, but should be very minimal. A 285/65R18 may fit a little better.
Thank you, *TeCKis300 & *lx200inAR! This is exactly the feedback I was after!
I'm reluctant to go for spacers and stray from being hub centric (change my mind). I'm fine with doing some plastic work if it means I can safely maximize/increase the tread patch. I feel like putting in the same effort to gain aspect ratio is slightly in vain. I'd rather always have xx" in contact vs gaining xx" in height. I think gains in constant real estate outweigh minor gains in clearance when I'm trying to keep the vehicle mostly stock.
In my experience it's what you don't/can't see that gets you stuck vs seeing an obstacle and deciding you can safely clear it.
I'm now out of the shadows for now and clearly welcome your advice!
I'm reluctant to go for spacers and stray from being hub centric (change my mind). I'm fine with doing some plastic work if it means I can safely maximize/increase the tread patch. I feel like putting in the same effort to gain aspect ratio is slightly in vain. I'd rather always have xx" in contact vs gaining xx" in height. I think gains in constant real estate outweigh minor gains in clearance when I'm trying to keep the vehicle mostly stock.
In my experience it's what you don't/can't see that gets you stuck vs seeing an obstacle and deciding you can safely clear it.
LT 33" fully measured by spec or 'sizing' after calculations. (Hopefully that makes sense)
I'm now out of the shadows for now and clearly welcome your advice!
I agree on the slight height differences not being as critical as maximizing width. When I say 33" I mean to imply anything in the 32.5-33.5 manufacturer spec.
Well, I think you answered the question then, I'd agree with @TeCKis300 to go with the LT285/65R18. That's the widest tallest tire you will be able to fit without a spacer.
I don't run spacers (I would if I was running OEM ET60 wheels), and I know @TeCKis300 does, but I believe the Bora spacers retain the hub centric feature.
Well, I think you answered the question then, I'd agree with @TeCKis300 to go with the LT285/65R18. That's the widest tallest tire you will be able to fit without a spacer.
I don't run spacers (I would if I was running OEM ET60 wheels), and I know @TeCKis300 does, but I believe the Bora spacers retain the hub centric feature.
The 32.5" diameter 285/65R18 would be a great place to be. Almost exactly the factory recommended overall tire size when fitted with 17" TRD Rock Warriors and 285/70R17s.
RW wheels come in +50mm offset to correct for scrub radius suspension geometry to support that tire size. Getting to that magic offset is more difficult with +60 offset wheels. Using the smallest spacer possible, .75", puts the effective scrub radius at ~+40mm. Being on either side of it by 10mm is close enough that really it won't make any appreciable difference. Some may choose to use spacers to get the more flush look, which also has the benefit of pushing the tire outboard to be the first point of contact in terrain. Appreciably more stability from track width. Yes, I believe the Boras would retain the hub centric feature.
RW wheels come in +50mm offset to correct for scrub radius suspension geometry to support that tire size. Getting to that magic offset is more difficult with +60 offset wheels. Using the smallest spacer possible, .75", puts the effective scrub radius at ~+40mm. Being on either side of it by 10mm is close enough that really it won't make any appreciable difference. Some may choose to use spacers to get the more flush look, which also has the benefit of pushing the tire outboard to be the first point of contact in terrain. Appreciably more stability from track width. Yes, I believe the Boras would retain the hub centric feature.
Agreed but there is a fine line here. 285s on my 8.5” wheels are almost pushing the bulge boundary for me. At some point you are protruding too much of the vulnerable tire face outside of the terrain contact tread. On my old Ps it was a bit much and the C loads tamed it a lot with added sidewall strength.
Right in the middle is the sweet spot to mate the bead seat as hard as possible and not create too much artificial squish on the sidewall at appropriate PSI.
Too much rebound curvature to the wheel will make it look flat too and will cause some to keep filling air.
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New meat on my new-to-me 2013 LX. 285/60/20 Falken WildPeaks. Measure out to 33.25 @44psi. First 2 pics in normal, 2nd 2 in Hi. Slight touching in full lock on the back inside mudflaps front tires when in reverse. Just going to heat up and bend them in a bit.
You can get a 34” under there and even raise it up further with just a little parts removal and the old 80 series spare tire trick too…
All that's gone on my 80. 4 X4 Labs rear bumper with swing outs. I'll drop the spare tire in the LX and see if I can move up the bar a little to give me some more clearance. Appreciate the tip
Yep, my 80 had a 4x4 labs too
Still my favorite rear bumper design and I hope to eventually mimic it on my 200
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@bigezvol How is this set up working for you. I want to replace the tires on my new to me 14 LX. At this point, I would prefer to stick with stock wheels and not worrying about spacers/lifts/etc.
Love it. Can't say enough good things about the WildPeaks. After very slight reshaping of the front mud flaps there's no rub at all. Glad I went with the 285/60 instead 285/65 on the stock 20's. Another great thing is I got the matching spare and it fits.
Ok so I have read this thread twice and for stock 20 inch wheels with no modification at all, 285/55/20s fit with no chance of any rub anywhere but 275/60/20s have a good chance of clearing with no trimming but might need a little heating and massaging of the fender liners. Wider tires start contacting the control arms which require spacers or wheel offset change which in turn causes more fender liner problems. Going to the Tundra 18s gain some ride quality but will require spacers because of the offset difference. Landcruiser 18s have the same offset but are harder to find. Aftermarket 17s seem to be ideal with a 285/70/17 provided you get the right offset. Does that about sum it all up?
Thanks
Thanks
25 offset w 17” method 316 @ $250 each and 24 lbs with p285 70 r17 falken wildpeaks seems to be the best/easiest/cheapest aftermarket replacement. And run a used 275 60 r20 tire on your 20” tucked under the vehicle as a spare tire.
You can run that wildpeak from anywhere between 26 and 50 psi technically. It sort of bridges the gap across passenger and light truck tires so you can tune your psi to where the ride is perfect.
Unsprung wheel/tire weight per corner should be slightly less than the rock warrior 285 70 r17 package offered as an oem option except, unlike the oem package, you will not be required to run a minimum of 40 psi. You can go down as low as 26 psi should you choose it handles better or more comfortably. Also, these methods tend to cost less than rock warriors and also come with a lifetime warranty.
Also with those methods if you wanted you could upgrade to a 285 75 r17 and be running a 33.9” tire and most likely still double stuff the rear tires without wrecking the fenders (I think).
Only thing missing from your summary is if you want to account for scrub radius. As your tire choice gets taller, ideally your wheel offset would decrease in order to maintain the same scrub radius. It’s a geometry equation where a 35” tire lands around ET35 so your optimal offset is somewhere between 60 and 35 depending on tire diameter. The other thing I’d add, is there are a lot of port installed tundra wheels out there (at least in the southeast) that are not the +60. I think most of those are +50.
if you are willing to be aggressive with plastic cutting/reforming, 285/75r17 is easy on the LX platform with anything from et25 to et50.
So that is a 17x8 with the 25mm offset?
Yes. I’ve seen a lot of people running 285 70 r17 and 285 75 r17’s with 25 offset 17’s like those. Those methods seem like a decent option due to weight, price, and warranty.
