Waking Up the LandSnoozer - A Run-of-the-Mill LS Swap (1 Viewer)

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Let me know when your working on the cruiser and need a hand on the weekends. Im only a hr and some change away. What's gas now. . $5.00 a gallon? šŸ¤£

Series, I'll be there if I'm not working on mine.
 
Getting close to putting the new drivetrain back into the vehicle for fitment. I broke one of the stock transmission cross member bolts and am looking to replace it. Can any one confirm the size for me? I'm seeing M10-x1.0 x 1 inch, but that seems to be a rare pitch? Possible that it's M10x1.5?
 
They are M10 1.25, about 20-25mm long

90119-10049, should be about $2.50 from the dealership. Or I can throw a few good used ones in with your order that's going out later :)
 
They are M10 1.25, about 20-25mm long

90119-10049, should be about $2.50 from the dealership. Or I can throw a few good used ones in with your order that's going out later :)
If you could throw 1 (maybe two - one for a spare) in the box, I'd appreciate it, Matt.
 
@cruisermatt
Pics of the oil pressure sender (sorry they're dark). It might be the sensor I'm using - bought a Wells from RockAuto.


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Big day indeed! Any thoughts on putting a mild truck cam in it before itā€™s finished? Canā€™t decide if I want to do that before I drop mine in.

Awesome work!
Iā€™ll be happy just getting it in a running, TBH. But I suppose now would be the time to do it - when the engine is out or when itā€™s just in like mine (easy access to the cam).
 
Your way ahead of me. My goal tomorrow is the rear axle, springs and shocks. Looks like just barely enough room for your steering box, or is that just the angle.View attachment 3129400
No, itā€™s pretty tight between the steering gear and the engine. And itā€™s REALLY close between the front output shaft and the transmission pan ā€¦ and Iā€™m running a SOA set up.
 
No, itā€™s pretty tight between the steering gear and the engine. And itā€™s REALLY close between the front output shaft and the transmission pan ā€¦ and Iā€™m running a SOA set up.
Did you have room to install the sheet metal guard around the u joint of the steering shaft where it connects. I thought I've seen vortecs in there with more room. Perhaps it's because you're is sitting higher in relation to the frame?
 
Nice! Looking good.

Did your crossmember bolt right up? And how close to the firewall are you?
It did, but I had to rotate the trans mount 180 degrees from what you and I talked about (now the F is pointing toward the rear). When i tried it the other way, the transfer case was pressed up against the parking brake cover on the floor of the body.

Thereā€™s actually a good amount of space between engine and firewall (will take a pic later today).

Also, thereā€™s not a lot of room between the transfer case and body floor when itā€™s all bolted up. I suggest attaching the transfer case shift hardware before you bolt up the trans crossmember.
 
Did you have room to install the sheet metal guard around the u joint of the steering shaft where it connects. I thought I've seen vortecs in there with more room. Perhaps it's because your is sitting higher in relation to the frame?
Iā€™m embarrassed to say that I completely forgot about that. Iā€™ll go back and put it in this week. Though if itā€™s too hard, I might just run it without. It doesnā€™t seem like thereā€™s much downside to not having it.
 
Iā€™m embarrassed to say that I completely forgot about that. Iā€™ll go back and put it in this week. Though if itā€™s too hard, I might just run it without. It doesnā€™t seem like thereā€™s much downside to not having it.
I think it's mainly to keep heat off of it from the exhaust with the original 3F engine.
 
It did, but I had to rotate the trans mount 180 degrees from what you and I talked about (now the F is pointing toward the rear). When i tried it the other way, the transfer case was pressed up against the parking brake cover on the floor of the body.
That, is a great idea. I got my mounts tacked in last week, but was contemplating cutting them off and starting over. I had the motor as far back as I could get it and my crossmember was still about an inch forward from where it needed to be. I'll bet rotating the mount would put it in the right spot. Good call.

Also, I still have my heater lines on my firewall, which definitely take up some room.

Mine are measuring ~14.25" from the center of the mount to the 45* frame in front. Will be curious where you ended up.
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That, is a great idea. I got my mounts tacked in last week, but was contemplating cutting them off and starting over. I had the motor as far back as I could get it and my crossmember was still about an inch forward from where it needed to be. I'll bet rotating the mount would put it in the right spot. Good call.

Also, I still have my heater lines on my firewall, which definitely take up some room.

Mine are measuring ~14.25" from the center of the mount to the 45* frame in front. Will be curious where you ended up.
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I wanted to keep the heater lines but decided I needed to ditch them when I was fitting the engine in. Iā€™m hoping I can find a way to reinstall them later.
 
cylinder head should be about 1" off firewall.
No worries with discarding steering column guard. Yes the pump is close but that is to have the correct crankshaft/chassis offset to match the original. Goal there is to keep u-joints/t-case outputs as original as possible to keep the angles as happy as possible.

I usually just bend that return line on the pump a little until it is happy.
I am working on a diesel swap right now and I made a 1/4" spacer plate for under the steering box- might be worthwhile for Vortec swaps as well. :hmm:
 

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