Official LX570s Picture Thread (18 Viewers)

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Took a trip to Glacier and the Going to the Sun road. A bit hazy from the nearby fires but a beautiful day otherwise.

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I actually was told to turn around at the precheck west enterance because I didn't get the separate going to the sun pass. Instead of turning around, I hid at the park head quarters until the precheck rangers were talking to another vehicle and then snuck over to the main gate. The ranger let me in when I flashed my america the beautiful card and the other entrance fee (I thought it was the going to the sun pass but was just another park enterance fee)

Found out later, If you enter at the Camas Creek entrance there is no one checking. Might want to have your park pass handy.
 
I thought it said 140 a day. Either way I had a small trailer in tow and would have been over the length restrictions
That's about what they release for the North entrance just outside of Polebridge. I suppose it might be lower on weekends but I have seen it average around 6-700 at the main entrances. And yeah, that wouldn't be a fun drive with a trailer.
 
That's about what they release for the North entrance just outside of Polebridge. I suppose it might be lower on weekends but I have seen it average around 6-700 at the main entrances. And yeah, that wouldn't be a fun drive with a trailer.

Ah I guess I was just seeing one entrance. Dang.
 
Upgraded from 315/70's to 37x12.50's. I've only been thru one tank, but I'm almost positive I'm getting better MPG on the highway than stock.

1st-normal 2nd-low 3rd-high
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Please elaborate. What supporting mods have been done to make this move.

I’m sitting on 315s and would love to hear more.
Saw you recently hit Red Cone and Wheeler:beer: I essentially live between those 2 trails.

Mods for 35's: push front fender liner forward 2" and remount screws like @TeCKis300 thread. Front mud flap removal, pinch weld grind and plastic trim/tuck, sensor lift.

Mods for 37's: BMC, grind a little from the rear fender pinch weld near 12'oclock position, added front Timbren AOR bumps, temporarily extended bump stop in rear coil perch with a hockey puck until I get 10mm coil spacers in.

If I had them it would sit on rear Timbren AOR in low mode so getting height dialed in first then will add rear Timbren AORs. It engages on the front Timbren AORs a bit in low currently so I'll likely do the front OEM 10mm spacer to make sure it doesn't touch bumps in low when cruising.

Extra details- 17x7.5" +25 wheels which may be the reason it hasn't rubbed yet. Just barely tucks inside both front and rear fenders. Haven't pushed it real hard or been fully loaded down yet. I also would have to remove rear mudflaps to be able to flex off road.
 
Saw you recently hit Red Cone and Wheeler:beer: I essentially live between those 2 trails.

Mods for 35's: push front fender liner forward 2" and remount screws like @TeCKis300 thread. Front mud flap removal, pinch weld grind and plastic trim/tuck, sensor lift.

Mods for 37's: BMC, grind a little from the rear fender pinch weld near 12'oclock position, added front Timbren AOR bumps, temporarily extended bump stop in rear coil perch with a hockey puck until I get 10mm coil spacers in.

If I had them it would sit on rear Timbren AOR in low mode so getting height dialed in first then will add rear Timbren AORs. It engages on the front Timbren AORs a bit in low currently so I'll likely do the front OEM 10mm spacer to make sure it doesn't touch bumps in low when cruising.

Extra details- 17x7.5" +25 wheels which may be the reason it hasn't rubbed yet. Just barely tucks inside both front and rear fenders. Haven't pushed it real hard or been fully loaded down yet. I also would have to remove rear mudflaps to be able to flex off road.
How much up travel do you lose with the required bump stops?
 
Saw you recently hit Red Cone and Wheeler:beer: I essentially live between those 2 trails.

Mods for 35's: push front fender liner forward 2" and remount screws like @TeCKis300 thread. Front mud flap removal, pinch weld grind and plastic trim/tuck, sensor lift.

Mods for 37's: BMC, grind a little from the rear fender pinch weld near 12'oclock position, added front Timbren AOR bumps, temporarily extended bump stop in rear coil perch with a hockey puck until I get 10mm coil spacers in.

If I had them it would sit on rear Timbren AOR in low mode so getting height dialed in first then will add rear Timbren AORs. It engages on the front Timbren AORs a bit in low currently so I'll likely do the front OEM 10mm spacer to make sure it doesn't touch bumps in low when cruising.

Extra details- 17x7.5" +25 wheels which may be the reason it hasn't rubbed yet. Just barely tucks inside both front and rear fenders. Haven't pushed it real hard or been fully loaded down yet. I also would have to remove rear mudflaps to be able to flex off road.
Good stuff man! We live in Golden.

I’ll pm you. Lets grab a trail sometime soon.

I’m sitting on 315s with bmc and some fender work (it was really easy). I would love to see the 37s in person.

Also, interested in seeing what changes need to be made when you start pushing the truck a bit off-road.

They look perfect on the lx.
 
How much up travel do you lose with the required bump stops?
According to Timbren- none:rofl:
rear frame OEM-2"-.25"crush?= 1 3/4" abosolute
rear frame AOR- 4 7/8"-2.25"crush= 2 5/8" absolute

I think its close to zero in front. Even if it limited it 0.4" the 10mm strut spacer adds that much so it evens out right? If I end up doing the rear Timbren AOR's are installed I'd say ~.75" of lost uptravel. My measurements for the rear say I need 1.25-1.5" of lift to not be resting on them when in 'low' which is around what a sensor lift and 10mm spacers get you.

Up travel is a quality over quantity thing for me in my experience. It also depends on where you bump in the rear. The frame mounted location will limit articulated flex better. The coil spring bump stop will limit high speed up travel better and have smoother engagement.

I get it; it's not for everyone and their needs.
 
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