What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (71 Viewers)

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Can’t take the dang water that pools in the fog lights so pulled the trigger and bought non-oem fog light fixtures from Amazon to get ready for some LED lamps on the low beams and fog.
 
When changing diff fluids last month, noticed there was pressure when I opened the fill plug. Breathers were totally frozen solid. So yesterday I relocated all vents to the engine bay (followed one of the how to's).

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Parking brake done. Been a very long time since I messed with drums. New shoes,hardware,bell cranks,mounting bracketsc,boots, etc.
Estimated cost and time to do the work? I need to prioritize mine.
 
I got my suspension all dialed in where I want it.

TT 3/4" diff drop
3/4" sensor lift front and rear
TT 1/2" body lift
TB's max reindex
Kings springs w/30mm spacer on passenger side, 40mm drivers
21" front, 21.75" rear
Factory CV angles in N for maximum longevity
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Pictured in H, of course!
I'm giving these C load 285/70 KO2's 13k more miles, enough to get a T-case re-geared in time for some bigger meats.
 
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Estimated cost and time to do the work? I need to prioritize mine.

Got all parts from Partsouq with the exception of using a Raybestos hardware kit I already had that I got from Amazon. Pins and springs seemed quality though I did reuse the original adjuster as well as ordering Toyota outer spring hold down cups as the Toyota have a more pronounced cup to center the hold down spring. Pretty easy actually, maybe 45 minutes a side. Parts were under $100 total with another $45 for Raybestos Element 3 shoes.
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Should have done this for the passenger side front speaker surrounds when i did it in the driver’s side. But this job is so easy to me 20 minutes from start to finish and sounds 100% better now. Honestly for the ML sound system that’s almost 20 years old it still sounds good. I have to crank it up 30 to get any decent bass.

Curious if i replace the rear factory sub with one of those skar sub will i get better bass in lower volume?

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I got my suspension all dialed in where I want it.

TT 3/4" diff drop
3/4" sensor lift front and rear
TT 1/2" body lift
TB's max reindex
Kings springs w/30mm spacer on passenger side, 40mm drivers
21" front, 21.75" rear
Factory CV angles in N for maximum longevity
View attachment 3079803
Pictured in H, of course!
I'm giving these C load 285/70 KO2's 13k more miles, enough to get a T-case re-geared in time for some bigger meats.
I have been eyeing the TT body lift for a very long time! How hard is it? Did you have to take your carpet out or can it be installed from underneath?
 
I have been eyeing the TT body lift for a very long time! How hard is it? Did you have to take your carpet out or can it be installed from underneath?

It's not hard but it was a lot more work than I was expecting. All 5 thresholds have to come out, carpet needs to be moved out of the way, front seats need to be unbolted and leaned forward, I had to remove my drawers and even the headlights needed to be unbolted for access. I see it as free lift though, it has no effect on suspension geometry, raises CG less than a suspension lift and gives real tire clearance. The hardware on the TT kit isn't ideal, I ended up reusing some of my original bolts.
 
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Should have done this for the passenger side front speaker surrounds when i did it in the driver’s side. But this job is so easy to me 20 minutes from start to finish and sounds 100% better now.

Did you replace or re-cone? I did all the speakers also, ended up replacing one speaker afterwards due to not centering the cone
 
Just reconed. Still working so I'm going to let it be
 
Finally … an upgrade/fix that didn’t require breaker bars, skinned knuckles, PB Blaster, 1/2 gallon of sweat or 4 trips to the hardware/Autozone for another bloody tool/replacement bolt …

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Very nice! I've been considering the same. I think the black looks better than the tan that's a different shade than the rest of the interior.
 
Finally … an upgrade/fix that didn’t require breaker bars, skinned knuckles, PB Blaster, 1/2 gallon of sweat or 4 trips to the hardware/Autozone for another bloody tool/replacement bolt …

View attachment 3080454
Wait one. There's something on this rig that does not require an ER visit or 878735463878 trips to the homedepot or Autozone?
 
In the process of installing IronMan lower control arm Tbar reinforcement brackets. I’ve not drilled the lower holes to run those bolts through yet. Not a difficult job if the nuts and bolts aren’t seized.

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I knocked out a quick oil change, replaced the front sway bar links since they were snapped off, and replaced the upper hatch door handle.
 
In the process of installing IronMan lower control arm Tbar reinforcement brackets. I’ve not drilled the lower holes to run those bolts through yet. Not a difficult job if the nuts and bolts aren’t seized.

View attachment 3080726
I drilled the holes for the bolts on Monday and installed the bolts. It was a major PITA because I had to remove my front skidplate to get at it. The brackets had been on for over a year so yeah I procrastinated a little. :)
 

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