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Mostly worried about the A343F internals, personally.What are you worried about breaking?
There's loads of turbo diesel 70, 80, 100, 200 series pushing huge torque and HP through stock drive trains
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Mostly worried about the A343F internals, personally.What are you worried about breaking?
There's loads of turbo diesel 70, 80, 100, 200 series pushing huge torque and HP through stock drive trains
Transmission is the biggest issue in these trucks.What are you worried about breaking?
There's loads of turbo diesel 70, 80, 100, 200 series pushing huge torque and HP through stock drive trains
Mostly worried about the A343F internals, personally.
Transmission is the biggest issue in these trucks.
It's only money right? lolGo manual?
Only if I accidentally grenade the auto.Go manual?
It's only money right? lol
The shop guys humorously mentioned sequential rally-raid transmissions, noting they easily cost more than the whole truck... um, thanks... but no.It's only money right? lol
Haha yep I looked at a transmission that was $22k. I think the only other realistic option for a street driven truck is the 4L80E conversion but the conversion kit is about $5k alone.The shop guys humorously mentioned sequential rally-raid transmissions, noting they easily cost more than the whole truck... um, thanks... but no.
I'm starting with a giant transmission cooler and obsessive temp data monitoring, plus a box full of hope and prayers.Haha yep I looked at a transmission that was $22k. I think the only other realistic option for a street driven truck is the 4L80E conversion but the conversion kit is about $5k alone.
I have been at 380+awhp and 470ft/lbs of torque coming in early and the transmission has survived so far. Knock on wood. But we did tune it a little soft down low intentionally.I'm starting with a giant transmission cooler and obsessive temp data monitoring, plus a box full of hope and prayers.
My torque peak stock was 3250rpms and was 194ft/lbsOut of curiosity, at what rpm would the torque peak on one of these extraordinary 1fz’s? What rpm is “coming in low”.
Sounds like a cool build. Sounds like your having fun with it. Hope it all comes together well.This is what happens when you allow scope creep on an engine oil leak in your 80...
Finally nearing completion on the subject build after a really looooong wait. Turns out there's a good reason we don't see many of these outside Dubai's sand drags; a lot of experimentation and custom machining work has been required (difficulty rating = $$$/$$$). Ended up with 108mm stroke on billet crank, 101mm bore, fresh H-beam rods, modified 8.53:1 race pistons, and Supra head studs. Will run a 61lb/min turbo via custom piping and intercooler. Intentionally detuning to avoid over-stressing internals and/or destroying the transmission. Should have more updates in a few weeks, after dyno time.
Calling it a "kit" would be generous at this point, but there are some Crower parts involved; most notably the billet crank (with a bit of further machining required for clearance). We're running a second Link Fury ECU while letting the OEM think it's basically still connected. All gauges, cruise, and warning lights will thus function as original - or with enhanced purpose (e.g., telling me if the transmission exceeds our target temp).I’m excited for this ! Is it a Crower kit ? Curious about engine management and the rod/stroke ratio too.
So you're sending a lot of the signals to both the second link fury and the toyota ECU? Is the toyota ECU doing the transmission as well or can the second link fury do that?Calling it a "kit" would be generous at this point, but there are some Crower parts involved; most notably the billet crank (with a bit of further machining required for clearance). We're running a second Link Fury ECU while letting the OEM think it's basically still connected. All gauges, cruise, and warning lights will thus function as original - or with enhanced purpose (e.g., telling me if the transmission exceeds our target temp).
Rod/stroke ratio is pretty aggressive, but we're deliberately overbuilding then detuning for relative reliability (>50-100% overhead on internal parts). It has been a long science experiment, with more to follow...