Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Who eats fuel pumps? This guy does.

View attachment 3064966

Had a minor heart attack when I saw big chunks of metal in the oil pan. It was magnetic, and turned out to match perfectly the OEM fuel pump arm. It was a good running engine, so I think it didn't mess much up.

View attachment 3064967

View attachment 3064968

View attachment 3064969
This is a fiber spacer for the fuel pump. Wondering if it is necessary to mount the OEM unit I have coming?

BTW, the final count on fuel pump gaskets was 6, plus half a gallon of sealant. I have NEVER seen that many stacked gaskets in an installation.
That is nutty! The 60 had that noisy electric pump on the fender and it ran well with that. I guess every modification has a story.... that 60 had a lot of stuff that told me the PO wasn't a mechanic, but did whatever he could to just keep the thing going. I never had the oil pan off of that engine, but figured it ran well so it must be fine...
 
That is nutty! The 60 had that noisy electric pump on the fender and it ran well with that. I guess every modification has a story.... that 60 had a lot of stuff that told me the PO wasn't a mechanic, but did whatever he could to just keep the thing going. I never had the oil pan off of that engine, but figured it ran well so it must be fine...
Based on the condition of the gasket, I doubt anyone has ever had the oil pan off. It's a genuine bugger to get off, with no evidence of FIPG or any other sealant.

IMG_20220721_132806452.jpg
 
Rock Auto sent me a new throw out bearing. It's different from the one I took off, but if you look at the wear pattern, I think it's the right part


IMG_20220723_153211788.jpg


IMG_20220723_153048768.jpg


The raised area on the new bearing on the right exactly matches where the 3 calipers align on the clutch. Not knowing any better, I went ahead and pressed it on.


IMG_20220723_155351734.jpg


I inherited this old vice from my dad. It's is my rifle building vice, but with an extra large socket it makes a reasonable press. I put the bearing in the freezer for an hour and set the other part in the 100 degree sun.

IMG_20220723_155513954.jpg


It went on way too easy. Hopefully this does the trick.

IMG_20220723_155617041.jpg


I derusted the clutch arm and slapped some paint on it and call it reconditioned.
 
Last edited:
Rock Auto sent me a new throw out bearing. It's different from the one I took off, but if you look at the wear pattern, I think it's the right part


View attachment 3067090

View attachment 3067091

The raised area on the new bearing on the right exactly matches where the 3 calipers align on the clutch. Not knowing any better, I went ahead and pressed it on.


View attachment 3067089

I inherited this old vice from my dad. It's is my rifle building vice, but with an extra large socket it makes a reasonable press. I put the bearing in the freezer for an hour and set the other part in the 100 degree sun.

View attachment 3067088

It went on way too easy. Hopefully this does the trick.

View attachment 3067087

I derusted the clutch arm and slapped some paint on it and call it reconditioned.
Strike that, reverse it. The bearing went into the sun and that throw out pivot piece went into the freezer
 
Rock Auto sent me a new throw out bearing. It's different from the one I took off, but if you look at the wear pattern, I think it's the right part


View attachment 3067090

View attachment 3067091

The raised area on the new bearing on the right exactly matches where the 3 calipers align on the clutch. Not knowing any better, I went ahead and pressed it on.


View attachment 3067089

I inherited this old vice from my dad. It's is my rifle building vice, but with an extra large socket it makes a reasonable press. I put the bearing in the freezer for an hour and set the other part in the 100 degree sun.

View attachment 3067088

It went on way too easy. Hopefully this does the trick.

View attachment 3067087

I derusted the clutch arm and slapped some paint on it and call it reconditioned.
I think your TO bearing is backwards. The flat, hardened side goes towards clutch fingers.

4C1E044D-E261-40E2-AA3D-4F6576584F6B.jpeg


04F0F36B-AFBC-433B-92A3-091DCB32DF45.jpeg
 
I think your TO bearing is backwards. The flat, hardened side goes towards clutch fingers.

View attachment 3068023

View attachment 3068024

Why would the side with the brand and model be on the bearing surface? No way is the side that has that info engraved or stamped on it be hardened

It's possible it's the wrong bearing, but I highly doubt it's oriented incorrectly
 
Why would the side with the brand and model be on the bearing surface? No way is the side that has that info engraved or stamped on it be hardened

It's possible it's the wrong bearing, but I highly doubt it's oriented incorrectly
The TO for latter 74+ bearings of the 4 speeds, with multiple fingers, are curved but also bigger. Maybe the SKF/Timken brands are curved(?)

I've seized a TO not putting the hardened side out. It squealed before it seized. I just thought it was breaking in-what a chore to replace.
I just looked in my box of clutch parts, both the old and new TO's are flat. The one I installed 1500 miles ago is also flat. I seized the previous one by putting the curved side out after a motor rebuild. So when I saw the curved side out I thought it may be backwards. 🤷‍♂️
 
Last edited:
Why would the side with the brand and model be on the bearing surface? No way is the side that has that info engraved or stamped on it be hardened

It's possible it's the wrong bearing, but I highly doubt it's oriented incorrectly
As I have it, you need a flat bearing surface if you are using a 3 finger clutch diaphragm and a round beaded face one for a diaphragm type.
 
As I have it, you need a flat bearing surface if you are using a 3 finger clutch diaphragm and a round beaded face one for a diaphragm type.

Using the highly un-scientific method of cruising websites that advertise 3 finger clutch throw out bearings that have pictures, every single one displays a beaded face bearing. I'm going to do some experimentation now, because I have entered the land of confusion.
 
I piddled around with temp installing all my Toyota parts from Mcgeorge while pretending I didn't have a bolt broken off in my thrust bearing flange. View attachment 3068602

Then I proceeded to break off my ez out just to make things worse View attachment 3068603
If you can get that easy out back out, I'd say your best best will be to take a sharp punch and a small hammer and try to tap it out that way. I have access to left handed drill bits also if you wanna try a couple of those
 
Here is how the bearing looks in my 1970, 3 finger clutch. Bearing looks identical to the one I replaced.
0C86E9FC-78E6-416F-BB50-BDCA4BAAD534.jpeg
FC7DE07A-2D25-42F1-8961-44D857F4E9D8.jpeg
 
If you can get that easy out back out, I'd say your best best will be to take a sharp punch and a small hammer and try to tap it out that way. I have access to left handed drill bits also if you wanna try a couple of those
I've been needing a left handed drill bit set for awhile now, and will pick one up this afternoon. Thanks for the offer, tho!
 
Left hand bit did nothing but drill the hole deeper.

I can use a larger ez out now, but as you can see it's getting me nowhere.

IMG_20220726_141518947.jpg


Unfortunately the hole is ever so slightly off center or I'd drill it out and rethread it, but am afraid that would ultimately ruin the bearing.

Am at a loss what to try next. This f*cker is in there good.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom