69 FJ40 Needs attention (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 22, 2005
Threads
99
Messages
861
Location
Santa Cruz Mountains,CA. TLCA#7702
Hi all, My 69 has been sitting neglected for too long now. I think it’s been at least 4 years since it’s been running.

On Father’s Day my Wife and Daughter helped me clean it up. We moved it from it’s long standing parking spot with weeds starting to grow around it! Simple tug from a tow strap with my Tacoma and we rolled it close to detached garage where it used to have a good home!

Now just need to figure out how to baseline and get it running again. Looks like some extensive body work needed. Rust is no joke leaving it outside with a trap!

Hopefully by moving it into sight more I will be motivated to fix it up. I took the soft top doors off and the old bikini top off.

Here’s a few pics!

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Hi all, My 69 has been sitting neglected for too long now. I think it’s been at least 4 years since it’s been running.

On Father’s Day my Wife and Daughter helped me clean it up. We moved it from it’s long standing parking spot with weeds starting to grow around it! Simple tug from a tow strap with my Tacoma and we rolled it close to detached garage where it used to have a good home!

Now just need to figure out how to baseline and get it running again. Looks like some extensive body work needed. Rust is no joke leaving it outside with a trap!

Hopefully by moving it into sight more I will be motivated to fix it up. I took the soft top doors off and the old bikini top off.

Here’s a few pics!

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View attachment 3041074

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View attachment 3041076
Thats a good lookin truck that deserves to be on the road!

Don't worry about the body work, just get it running and stopping reliably and safe, and start driving it. Who cares if it has some rust, its still way cooler than a Tesla!
 
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Hi all,

Just tried a battery in my 40 I pulled out of my daughter's Subaru that had a good starting power but needed replacement. I got nothing turning key on! Put some fresh gas in bypassing the tank in a clean plastic water bottle.

Looks like a wiring problem, Need to clean up some rusty grounds and crusty wires!

I would appreciate any tips to get it running!

I’ve included engine bay pics from today To show what it’s looking like currently.

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Some folks might suggest bypassing the ignition jumping 12 volts directly to the starter just to see if you can get her to turn over.
Green Bean,

Wow ok I’ve never done this before but would love to hear it turn over!

Question for ya, how do you hook both cables to the starter?

Thanks buddy I appreciate any help,
Good folks around here and massive amounts of knowledge.
 
As Living in the Pat stated at FJ40 won't crank & I know I'm forgetting to look somewhere - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-wont-crank-i-know-im-forgetting-to-look-somewhere.1247867/#post-13768056:

The large wire at the starter always has power. It's the small wire that only gets power when the ignition switch is in the start position. With the hand brake set and transmission in neutral put a jumper from the large wire to the small wire. If the ignition switch is off will will still turn the engine over but not start. With the ignition switch turn to on it may start if the engine turns over.
 
As Living in the Pat stated at FJ40 won't crank & I know I'm forgetting to look somewhere - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-wont-crank-i-know-im-forgetting-to-look-somewhere.1247867/#post-13768056:

The large wire at the starter always has power. It's the small wire that only gets power when the ignition switch is in the start position. With the hand brake set and transmission in neutral put a jumper from the large wire to the small wire. If the ignition switch is off will will still turn the engine over but not start. With the ignition switch turn to on it may start if the engine turns

Thanks for the link and info! So I’m going to assume with a running jump truck hook cables up to starter. Positive to bigger bolt for constant power and neg to smaller bolt. Then try and start or leave key on before hookup of cables.

Do I need a lighting storm also to revive the dead like Frankenstein!! Might be what my old beast needs!
 
Thanks for the link and info! So I’m going to assume with a running jump truck hook cables up to starter. Positive to bigger bolt for constant power and neg to smaller bolt. Then try and start or leave key on before hookup of cables.

Do I need a lighting storm also to revive the dead like Frankenstein!! Might be what my old beast needs!
If I am reading right, No! Connecting both jumpers to the starter solenoid will create a dead short.

First, clean up the red ground wire between the starter bolt and frame at both ends, including the Bolts. Connect the earth/negative jumper cable to the bolt at the frame end of the ground strap.

Connect the positive wire to the positive cable at the battery terminal end after you cleaned up the terminal. Connect a small jumper wire to the + side of the coil and to the positive battery cable. Make up a second small wire with a spade terminal at the one end and connect it to the starter where there currently is a thinner black wire with terminal at the end on. If you touch that wire to the battery positive terminal, it should spin the motor and make spark at the spark plugs.
 
If your points are fouled/pitted/dirty/etc, you may not have spark. Don't leave the coil permanently connected to power if it does not work and you are going away.

If you have spark, use a small plastic drinks bottle with a cap, make a small hole in the Middle of the cap and fill with gas. This you can use to prime the system so that fuel can be pulled through the pump to the carb. A few squirts are enough to get things going, ideal would be to fill the float bowl through the top nut with mesh screen on top of the carb until it's at the mark, you may even have an idling vehicle.

Let us know how you get along and then we can help more.
 
If your points are fouled/pitted/dirty/etc, you may not have spark. Don't leave the coil permanently connected to power if it does not work and you are going away.

If you have spark, use a small plastic drinks bottle with a cap, make a small hole in the Middle of the cap and fill with gas. This you can use to prime the system so that fuel can be pulled through the pump to the carb. A few squirts are enough to get things going, ideal would be to fill the float bowl through the top nut with mesh screen on top of the carb until it's at the mark, you may even have an idling vehicle.

Let us know how you get along and then we can help more.
Hey locklaw,

I appreciate your response and taking time to help out another old 40 guy out.
Not knowing how to jump a starter! I really did put in some work for my 69 40 around 2007. I swapped the original seized F with a running 71 F. Did it all on my own in a sloped driveway carport.Installed Rebuilt carb from a member here on mud. Also converted to floor shift w the original 3sp. And locking hubs to replace vacuum shift. Did 4 wheel disc brakes purchased here on mud w master cylinder from a 4Runner. Lots of crappy bodywork w bondo that’s obviously rusting through. Before all that in 97 shortly after I originally purchased I installed Old school shackle rev, 4” Rancho gut buster 4” spring and shocks!

So the plan is to get it running again on a low budget.

I’m currently working full time and super busy on weekends but I’m trying to get motivated posting up for help. I will keep reading up and again I appreciate all good cruiser folks knowledge.
 
If it's been sitting for 4 years, i wouldn't try starting just yet. You probably could, but you might want to prepare the engine.
Older F engines are often easy to start, I've started a few that were considered junk. But if you want to keep it running a little preparation helps.
First, I'd pull the sparkplugs and add an ounce or two of the Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder via the empty spark plug holes. Let that sit a day or two. Remove the valve cover and contemplate the valve train. After a couple days, add more MMO and attempt to rotate the engine gently.
Do you have the hand crank (a very useful tool)?
Or a socket for the front crank bolt?
Or put it in gear and push/pull the rig to see if the engine moves. It probably will.
Once you can rotate the engine you can adjust the valves. Do so. Leave the valve cover off.
Once you've adjusted the valves (sure, you'll have to do it again once it's running and warmed up) and figured out the TDC #1 thing, you can time the engine. Probably should clean the ponts and gap them, with engine at 7 degrees BTDC #1 you can time by ear if you put 12 volts to the coil. You'll hear the spark jump at the points.
You can fill the carb float bowl via the 2 vents (slanty brass tubes you see looking down the carb) and watch the fuel level in the porthole window in the bowl.
I've started quite a few F engines using the hand crank. Or you can fiddle with wiring and use the starter motor.
When it starts, guick look at your oil gauge and smile as it rises. Then go watch for the oil dripping off your rocker arms (why you left the valve cover off).
Give it a nice oil change and tune up, then start working on your brakes.
 
If it's been sitting for 4 years, i wouldn't try starting just yet. You probably could, but you might want to prepare the engine.
Older F engines are often easy to start, I've started a few that were considered junk. But if you want to keep it running a little preparation helps.
First, I'd pull the sparkplugs and add an ounce or two of the Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder via the empty spark plug holes. Let that sit a day or two. Remove the valve cover and contemplate the valve train. After a couple days, add more MMO and attempt to rotate the engine gently.
Do you have the hand crank (a very useful tool)?
Or a socket for the front crank bolt?
Or put it in gear and push/pull the rig to see if the engine moves. It probably will.
Once you can rotate the engine you can adjust the valves. Do so. Leave the valve cover off.
Once you've adjusted the valves (sure, you'll have to do it again once it's running and warmed up) and figured out the TDC #1 thing, you can time the engine. Probably should clean the ponts and gap them, with engine at 7 degrees BTDC #1 you can time by ear if you put 12 volts to the coil. You'll hear the spark jump at the points.
You can fill the carb float bowl via the 2 vents (slanty brass tubes you see looking down the carb) and watch the fuel level in the porthole window in the bowl.
I've started quite a few F engines using the hand crank. Or you can fiddle with wiring and use the starter motor.
When it starts, guick look at your oil gauge and smile as it rises. Then go watch for the oil dripping off your rocker arms (why you left the valve cover off).
Give it a nice oil change and tune up, then start working on your brakes.
Quite correct, except for you forgot to mention the clouds of smoke it will blow out the exhaust while the oil is burned off. This does nothing, just a good warning before it freaks out someone.

Personally, I have revived quite a few standing motors also but with it being an F and a Cruiser, I would not jump to Marvel Mystery oil unless it is stuck. Regular old ATF will lube it well enough. And I would leave the plugs out after oiling, confirm that it turns a full revolution by gripping the appropriate fan blade, and then turn the motor with the starter until oil has reached the valvetrain/pressure shows on the gauge, then only replace plugs and proceed to fire the motor using all the factors listed above.
 

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