Battery Terminal Blocks (1 Viewer)

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I’m looking to replace my main battery cables and figured I’d clean up terminals at my battery. I’ve got some Auxiliary lights running to the single battery setup. Are there any terminal blocks that folks recommend for multiple lugs coming to battery?
 
I’m looking to replace my main battery cables and figured I’d clean up terminals at my battery. I’ve got some Auxiliary lights running to the single battery setup. Are there any terminal blocks that folks recommend for multiple lugs coming to battery?
Standard military style terminals work well for most. More than that, I would recommend a Blue Sea fuse block.
 
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mil style battery ends on Amazon. Copper crimp ends and heavy adhesive lined shrink tubing in black and red from Mcmasters. 2/0 USA made welding cable from my local welding wholesaler.

Mcmasters does not sell the mil style battery terminals otherwise I'd buy them there.
 
I did these this weekend in lieu of replacing all the cables and doing a proper fused link. My factory original ground terminal could no longer be tightened more to keep it on the post, so sometimes truck wouldn’t start. I cleaned up and replaced some of the connectors that were tired. These terminal connectors are from V-gate on Amazon. Theyre rock solid on the posts.

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I use Marine batteries with the extra stud, they have good life, can start your engine and have good longevity. I also use cube fuse blocks on the main terminals as well.

Regards

Dave
 
I use Marine batteries with the extra stud, they have good life, can start your engine and have good longevity. I also use cube fuse blocks on the main terminals as well.

Regards

Dave
I was going to do that. Aren’t the post reversed on the marine batteries or do they make one configured the “right” way for 80 with ground to fender side?
 
I was going to do that. Aren’t the post reversed on the marine batteries or do they make one configured the “right” way for 80 with ground to fender side?

No the marine batteries can be purchased with reversed terminals, the job is finding the damn things. I needed a set for my 80 just before the Covid set in, and could not get ones I needed due to shipping restrictions here in Spain, of course Covid died out and as it did I ended up in hospital, so have not driven my 80 for approaching a couple of years. As my 80 has been converted to 12v it was easy enough to swap the cables around, but I put a block of hard wood between the inner wing and positive terminal, this along with the cube fuses the risk of a shunt causing a fire is minimal.

Assuming I get to drive again (mental crossing of fingers) I will get replacement batteries with the L/H battery terminals the right way around.

Regards

Dave
 
I bought these SDHQ billet battery terminals awhile back and am using MILSPEC battery terminals now.

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Mine do not have the covers or the little black/red disc that goes underneath. But you can have mine just pay for shipping.
 
Recommend not using the bat terminals for connecting multiple things.
Mount an MRBF on the positive terminal and run a singe 2ga to an auxiliary fuse box somewhere to connect everything else. (keep in mind most blade fuse boxes are good to 40Amax constant)
For best results, do not tap into factory harness to power aftermarket stuffs.
 
Agreed, although the marine dual pos/neg terminals do make it easy to connect, unfortunately the diesel version has very little space for more than one fuse box, this has taken place of getting rid of the fusible links form the battery, and of course cover wiring to the power distribution box in the rear.

Regards

Dave
 
Agreed, although the marine dual pos/neg terminals do make it easy to connect, unfortunately the diesel version has very little space for more than one fuse box, this has taken place of getting rid of the fusible links form the battery, and of course cover wiring to the power distribution box in the rear.

Regards

Dave
Indeed, for the one aftermarket thing I do wire to the battery - the winch relay board (yes, winch model specific) - dual terminals are perfect. 👍
 
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I purchased and installed the cable and terminal kit from @Fourrunner about a year ago and it is great! The materials and super high quality and his service and support was superb. I can't recommend this kit enough!

 
On the ‘93 I have a “milspec-looking” terminal (from Amazon, hence the qualifier) on the ground side of a 27F X2Power that for some reason won’t stay tight and in place.
Currently looking for a single post that’s tall enough to hold 3 2/0 lugs.
 
I bought these SDHQ billet battery terminals awhile back and am using MILSPEC battery terminals now.

View attachment 3049895

Mine do not have the covers or the little black/red disc that goes underneath. But you can have mine just pay for shipping.

Those are aluminum?

Aluminum is a poor material for battery connections because it corrodes so rapidly. If you anodized it, it wouldn't corrode, but it wouldn't conduct either. Also, it's probably 6061 which really doesn't like bending at all. 6061 will snap instead of bend.

Battery terminals should be lead or copper.
 
A great trick from the trade is to drive a Philips screw between the battery terminal and the gap of the connector.

Regards

Dave
Thanks - sounds like something I would have no problem doing on my K5 Blazer. On the 80... my wife doesn't like me doing Chevy-style hacks. I suppose I'll just do it and see if she notices it :hillbilly:
 
Those are aluminum?

Aluminum is a poor material for battery connections because it corrodes so rapidly. If you anodized it, it wouldn't corrode, but it wouldn't conduct either. Also, it's probably 6061 which really doesn't like bending at all. 6061 will snap instead of bend.

Battery terminals should be lead or copper.

I am no longer using them. I have switched over to MILSPEC terminals. I am also weighing the options of swapping out my Optima 35A for a Optima Yellow Top D27F, I would love to be able to run dual marine batteries but the Optima marine batteries do not come in a "flipped/reverse" setup that the Land Cruiser uses.
 

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