Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
For the future...low tire pressure (think 30 instead of 40psi) can cause a more significant tire radius change than tire wear. This problem is often overthought.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
- Start date
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Here is my SQOD - I am getting BP51s put on today. Is there any value in keeping or selling the old suspension parts? It's a 21 LC with 7,000 miles.
Thanks!
Thanks!
If you have room to store old parts then I would
CharlieS
GOLD Star
If you plan to have the BP-51s rebuilt when they need it, having the stock suspension to swap back in could be beneficial. Otherwise they're a nice upgrade for someone with a high mileage worn out suspension. Lots of them have been given away, and some sold.
is there a specific thread for used/take off suspensions for sale or give a ways located in the classifieds?
Not a specific thread but this would work
Classifieds - Axle/Suspension
Differentials, Springs, Shocks, Bump Stops, Ring/Pinion, etc.
forum.ih8mud.com
Gotta New SQOD (Oil Change Related):
I changed my own oil last weekend and used a TRD Pro filter and O-ring, plus installed a Fumoto valve to make draining easier for next time. I reinstalled the stock oil filter housing with 25 ft. lbs. of torque like it says on the embossment, but left the skid plate off so I could check on it. FWIW- I'm 99% sure I put the new O-ring in the correct position. The next day there were a couple drips of oil on my driveway, so I torqued it to 40ish ft. lbs., but two days later there's still a little oil coming out.
Is it a big deal? Nah- if I'd have reinstalled the bash plate right after changing I would never have noticed. Is it a bit irritating as someone who likes to meticulously maintain my truck during the week and then beat the crap out of it on the weekends? Yes- yes it is.
So- my question is how tight do you DIYers actually torque the housing?
Gracias!
I changed my own oil last weekend and used a TRD Pro filter and O-ring, plus installed a Fumoto valve to make draining easier for next time. I reinstalled the stock oil filter housing with 25 ft. lbs. of torque like it says on the embossment, but left the skid plate off so I could check on it. FWIW- I'm 99% sure I put the new O-ring in the correct position. The next day there were a couple drips of oil on my driveway, so I torqued it to 40ish ft. lbs., but two days later there's still a little oil coming out.
Is it a big deal? Nah- if I'd have reinstalled the bash plate right after changing I would never have noticed. Is it a bit irritating as someone who likes to meticulously maintain my truck during the week and then beat the crap out of it on the weekends? Yes- yes it is.
So- my question is how tight do you DIYers actually torque the housing?
Gracias!
the plug is 30 ft lbs, and the filter housing is 18 ft lbs. Where did you see 25? and 40 is way too tight...
I usually just hand tighten the filter housing.
It's also really easy to get the housing o-ring in the wrong notch, which would cause a leak.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
What @FerrisBueller said is my guess. Tightening the housing isn't going to fix the leak. The leak is getting past the large o-ring. Overtightening the housing is more likely than not to result in other issues - like breaking the ears off the stock housing and making it really hard to remove the housing later.
gaijin
GOLD Star
There are 2 O-Rings in the oil filter package - the large one goes on the oil filter cap (large plastic housing) and the small one goes under the metal drain plug.
Tightening torque for the drain plug is 9 ft-lbf.
Tightening torque for the oil filter cap is 18 ft-lbf.
Here is a picture showing the proper location for the large O-Ring on the oil filter cap:
I also suspect the cause of your leak is an improperly seated large O-Ring.
And, 40 ft-lbf is way too tight!
HTH
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Thanks all for the feedback. I may have put the O-ring in the wrong groove, but I was careful and I've done it before so who knows? I'm just going to keep my eye on it. No point in wasting 8 qts. of brand new, expensive oil to check it out when it's a very small leak.
I'll just have to be diligent at my next change.
I'll just have to be diligent at my next change.
I was thinking about that after I posted. I’m so used to doing both that I forgot that you can pull the filter housing without getting showered by 8 qts of oil.
Sometimes I say dumb things.
I used a set of +3" stainless brake lines from Crown Performance. My Tundra-swapped 200 still has 200 calipers, so I simply went with normal Cruiser fittings up front. The +3" should be good regardless of the amount of lift you have up front, and it's plenty for the OME 722s I have out back.
Crown Performance: Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Braided Hoses for Cars, Trucks & SUV
Crown Performance home of the Kevlar reinforced stainless steel brake line and brake hose.
www.crownperformance.com
This was a year and a half ago, so I assume pricing has changed at least a little bit. And yes, my brake lines are purple.
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Wondering if anyone else has experienced this, or has any obvious ideas of where I should look...
Finished installing my RLC rear swingout bumper this weekend. Drop about 5-6 miles and all was good. Coming back home a few hours later I noticed a creaking noise when I come to a stop, or start back up from a light. It's more pronounced if I brake kind of hard, but the noise itself only really happens when the vehicle actually stops moving (not during the slowing down part of braking). No noise when turning, and I can't seem to re-create it by bouncing the truck or jumping on the bumper.
The bumper is mounted tight to the frame, swing arms are tight, so it's not loose. There's a small gap between the plastic bumper, tailgate, and body from the new steel bumper so I don't see any obvious contact points. I re-secured the spare tire hanger just to be sure but the sound is much more of a creak/groan. The only other thing I can come up with would be the bumper potentially contacting the black plastic rear A/C intake vent cover, but I thought I had a small gap there. (Will need to pull the plastic bumper panels to confirm).
Finished installing my RLC rear swingout bumper this weekend. Drop about 5-6 miles and all was good. Coming back home a few hours later I noticed a creaking noise when I come to a stop, or start back up from a light. It's more pronounced if I brake kind of hard, but the noise itself only really happens when the vehicle actually stops moving (not during the slowing down part of braking). No noise when turning, and I can't seem to re-create it by bouncing the truck or jumping on the bumper.
The bumper is mounted tight to the frame, swing arms are tight, so it's not loose. There's a small gap between the plastic bumper, tailgate, and body from the new steel bumper so I don't see any obvious contact points. I re-secured the spare tire hanger just to be sure but the sound is much more of a creak/groan. The only other thing I can come up with would be the bumper potentially contacting the black plastic rear A/C intake vent cover, but I thought I had a small gap there. (Will need to pull the plastic bumper panels to confirm).
I would pop off the plastics on both sides and remove the swingout, then take it for a ride. If the noise is gone, you know you're on the right track. If it's still there, then I can't suspect the bumper. Maybe the mudflaps?
I have the same bumper, no noises. But I don't have the swingout installed.
I have the same bumper, no noises. But I don't have the swingout installed.
I did put on some very basic mudflaps, but they are only secured to the body. I had the same thought (and may try to remove them just to be sure) but I can't see how they would make this much noise. If I hadn't just put the bumper on I would be looking at something in the suspension binding up or brake calipers loose or osmething, but the bumper comes nowhere near any suspension or brake components and none of that has been touched.
I was thinking maybe the airbags are making noise since with the extra weight the springs are compressed a bit more and thus the stretching that they've done no longer sits in the coil as precisely as before, but I *only* ever hear the noise when the truck stops (and the weight shifts forward slightly) or when I start back up (and he weight shifts back). Also I've never had this whether or not I'm loaded down/empty or towing/solo, cases which would have more impact on the airbag position than the bumper does. In any case I have new springs and airbags which will go on in ~10 days so if they are the case that will go away.
Lange
SILVER Star
My "new to me" 2008 LC was missing the cover to the oil drain plug. I purchased part #51456-60070 along with the two fastening bolts and was wondering what the two interior holes are for on the raised circular areas. In some picks that I have seen, it looks like some sort of plastic grommet extends out of them, but I cannot figure it out.
