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- #61
I pulled one cam bearing cap. Doesn’t look horrible up there. Let me know if anyone disagrees. Lol. But I don’t think it looks bad enough to say I have systemically low oil pressure.
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Thanks for looking so close. I had to take a look and double check. Each cap has a small channel there on one side. No clue why. But apparently deliberately.View attachment 2995278
Is it supposed to be stepped like the circled bit? And it kind of looks like it's splitting where the arrow is.
I don't know anything about these engines, so that may be a dumb question. Hope you can get back on the road soon.
Your rod bearings are not worn. The scratches, as one or two others have noted, is from dirt in the engine or that got onto the bearings during installation. It's not that uncommon when this kind of work is done in a shop space that's not super clean, and the parts are not carefully cleaned before assembly after plasti-gauging. They are not supposed to be scratched, but it's also not the end of the world.
Hey John,I'm curious how your project is coming along.
I have virtually zero time to reply to anything on 'Mud, and not enough time to get to all the emails I get on any one day. Sorry, it's just life running a one-person business.
A few notes now that I've seen this thread.
Your rod bearings are not worn. The scratches, as one or two others have noted, is from dirt in the engine or that got onto the bearings during installation. It's not that uncommon when this kind of work is done in a shop space that's not super clean, and the parts are not carefully cleaned before assembly after plasti-gauging. They are not supposed to be scratched, but it's also not the end of the world.
There was some mention of using ARP studs.
They are a great idea, and can be re-used vs the stock style TTY bolts that should be tossed in the bin each time. They provide about 40% better clamping force over the stock style bolts - which is a huge advantage if you're running more boost pressure.
I keep the ARPs in stock when I can get them, but they are hard to get due to low production volume and high demand and usually sell about as fast as I can obtain the very limited number that make their way to me. I have one set available now, two more are in transit along with a couple of sets of 1HD-FT/E ARP studs, and then there will be no more until at least mid July.
I would like to find out what the solution to your clunking noises are. It's very perplexing when these kinds of things happen, and very difficult to diagnose over email, forum posts, or a phone call.
Good luck with your progress on finding the answers.
~John
The "clunky" shutdown on the 1Hx series of engines has to with with the fuel-cut shut off being used to end combustion. The engine is experiencing full compression while it's being shut down, and as the rotating assembly is coming to a stop, it will cease rotating as it 'hits' the start of a compression cycle on one cylinder.
Well guys…
I always figured it was likely that I had multiple issues. Look like at least one of them was bloody stupid. Hahaha.
View attachment 3013242
So yeah…. THAT was banging on start up. Wedged in there like a bastard. Bloody hell. Explains my t-case vibration I was picking up before the clanking started too.
Obviously this doesn’t explain my bearings hammering out in such a small amount of miles. But it was definitely the universe’s way of getting me to look at those and see it.
So I’m not sure what’s next. I need to put some miles on it and see what everything feels like. See if anything still feels off.
But at the very least, that’s my shut down and starting rattle/banging.
PS: That's a homemade 3/8” steel bash plate I made when I swapped auto to manual because of trans mount difference. And that’s one of the reasons it was such a deep banging noise that sounded so terrifying.
Wait, it that just a rock wedged in between your T Case and the subframe / support?I always figured it was likely that I had multiple issues. Look like at least one of them was bloody stupid. Hahaha.
So yeah…. THAT was banging on start up. Wedged in there like a bastard. Bloody hell. Explains my t-case vibration I was picking up before the clanking started too.
Wait, it that just a rock wedged in between your T Case and the subframe / support?
I'm not sure if I should be happy or sad for you!?
-B