Transmission install question - is it really this hard or am I just bad a this? (1 Viewer)

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aging fleet

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Location
Columbus, OH
I feel as though everyone who has removed and reinstalled their transmission knows some things I haven't learned yet. After pulling the transmission and transfer case to replace my rear main and reseal all the leaking things, I'm having a hell of a time getting it to fully seat back in the motor.

It was close at least 3 different attempts, but I always get stopped about a 3/4" from being fully docked. It seems as though the clutch disc becomes misaligned and I'm not able to seat the end of the input shaft into the pilot bearing (I even realigned it a few times). Is there some type of trick that I'm not doing or do I keep banging on it until I'm finally lucky enough to have it slide in?

For reference, I'm installing it via a tranny jack from underneath. Any advice would be welcome, I'm throwing in the towel for the day, but will regroup and get after it again tomorrow.
 
I feel as though everyone who has removed and reinstalled their transmission knows some things I haven't learned yet. After pulling the transmission and transfer case to replace my rear main and reseal all the leaking things, I'm having a hell of a time getting it to fully seat back in the motor.

It was close at least 3 different attempts, but I always get stopped about a 3/4" from being fully docked. It seems as though the clutch disc becomes misaligned and I'm not able to seat the end of the input shaft into the pilot bearing (I even realigned it a few times). Is there some type of trick that I'm not doing or do I keep banging on it until I'm finally lucky enough to have it slide in?

For reference, I'm installing it via a tranny jack from underneath. Any advice would be welcome, I'm throwing in the towel for the day, but will regroup and get after it again tomorrow.
Mating the tranny to the engine is one of the toughest jobs in LandCruisering
Rotate the engine and tranny, wiggle it, maybe ratchet straps...
I usually just bang away at it until it slides in
 
It is all alignment. Try and get the transmission face and bellhousing surface parallel. There is usually a little bit of an angle so you will need to raise the trans when pushing it in. Then slide the trans forward, jacking when necessary till the splines are probably going to catch preventing forward movement. With the trans in gear rotate the drive while applying forward pressure until it goes forward. With any luck it will find the pilot bearing, double check the height if it won't fully seat. If you can get any bolts started they will help with alignment. Resist using them to pull the trans in or risk possibly stripping threads. It's just a matter of taking your time and not rushing things. A pair of extra hands will help.
 
Mating the tranny to the engine is one of the toughest jobs in LandCruisering
Rotate the engine and tranny, wiggle it, maybe ratchet straps...
I usually just bang away at it until it slides in
Thanks @Pighead, I’ll keep beating at it.
 
Make some long headless bolts (with screw driver slot) to help guide the tranny/t/c into position, then unscrew one at a time and use real bolts. Of course, it helps to have the cab off 😂.
IMG_1897.JPG
 
Buy some long bolts that thread into the bell housing and cut the heads off of them.
Screw them in the bell housing by hand with enough threads.
you can use those as guides for the trans/combo to align with the pilot bearing. Once it fitted remove one at a time and use your original bolts to cinch it down.
Good luck!
 
3/4"?
by any chance did you check to see if the pilot bearing fit onto the input shaft of the trans?
the trans is already thru the splines on the clutch seems the last bit is the pilot bearing
 
It helps to ratchet strap the clutch fork to the cross member to keep it from wiggling around
Have an assistant pump the clutch a few times when its real close.

Did you check that the input shaft fit over the pilot bearing?

Headless bolts as noted above helped me.

see post 67 on for what I did.

 
by any chance did you check to see if the pilot bearing fit onto the input shaft of the trans?
the trans is already thru the splines on the clutch seems the last bit is the pilot bearing

Did you check that the input shaft fit over the pilot bearing?

This. Always test fit the new pilot bearing on the input shaft before installing the pilot bearing.

Other than that, what has been said. A transmission jack is helpful, because you can make minute adjustments in three dimensions to get the trans parallel to the bell housing and clutch. Be sure to use the clutch pilot tool that should have come with your clutch.
 
This. Always test fit the new pilot bearing on the input shaft before installing the pilot bearing.

Other than that, what has been said. A transmission jack is helpful, because you can make minute adjustments in three dimensions to get the trans parallel to the bell housing and clutch. Be sure to use the clutch pilot tool that should have come with your clutch.
Clutch centering tool
 
3/4"?
by any chance did you check to see if the pilot bearing fit onto the input shaft of the trans?
the trans is already thru the splines on the clutch seems the last bit is the pilot bearing

No, but I did compare old vs new when I pulled the old one out and didn't notice a difference with the pilot bearing that came with the Aisin kit. I'm going to re-center the clutch disk first thing so I may just pull the pressure plate and clutch to confirm they fit.

It helps to ratchet strap the clutch fork to the cross member to keep it from wiggling around
Have an assistant pump the clutch a few times when its real close.

Did you check that the input shaft fit over the pilot bearing?

Headless bolts as noted above helped me.

see post 67 on for what I did.

The clutch fork for has been a pain, I'll definitely use a strap to remove the play. Also, I read your thread many times before kicking off this project, I appreciate the input.

This. Always test fit the new pilot bearing on the input shaft before installing the pilot bearing.

Other than that, what has been said. A transmission jack is helpful, because you can make minute adjustments in three dimensions to get the trans parallel to the bell housing and clutch. Be sure to use the clutch pilot tool that should have come with your clutch.

Job one will be confirming the pilot bearing fits, next will be centering the clutch again.


Thanks again everyone, I'll report back once I'm triumphant.
 
You might consider just polishing up the input shaft with some emery paper to help the fit into the bearing.

Mine was the appropriate bearing but did require polishing for an easy fit.

I was so ready to say the bearing was wrong, but buffed the output shaft with emory paper and was able to seat the transmission/output shaft in the pilot bearing with the clutch and shift fork out of the way. At least I know it can fit, now I just have to pull it back off, reinstall the pressure plate and clutch, and put it back together again.

Oh, and using bolts with the heads cut off as a guide is definitely helping. Thanks guys!
 

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