Builds The Green Bastard (1 Viewer)

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So what mat will you use?
An old themra rest for now, @GLTHFJ60 had suggested a cheap memory foam mattress topper, which is what will likely be next
Cooler stays inside on one side of the vehicle, dog sleeps in front of the cooler on that side.
Will see if the dog comes out to relic run 🤔
 
In a great adventure of curiosity, I took apart one of the door arm rests (the one in worst condition) will see how good my stitching is still :D

Things to purchase next time there is some super toyota sale:
driver seat foam (if seats are not already swapped)
more better wiper nozzles
2nd battery box for passenger side (if not already purchased)
105 pittman arm upgrade stuff (if current one gets busted)
uhhhhh 🤔
Still looking for this?

 
perhaps a bit more in the future :D
I honestly don't think you "need" them. Maybe if your deciding to go +37s and a HARDCORE rock crawler.

But if your going to rebuild and wanna spend the money, go for it.

I think I bought my rebuild kit (without the Pittman arm) from Rock Auto for less than $100 bucks. Don't quote me on the price, but its pretty cheap when you just buy the parts. I'll see if I can find you the thread if your interested.
 
I think it's this one.

 
I think it's this one.

I followed the same thread and use the same rockauto kit.
 
Hit 212212 on the way out to Carolina Relic Run!


Saw a bunch of relics!

Tested the rear bumper is stout, backed into a few trees 😅

@lumbee1 heard a bunch of exciting noises on the outside while I was driving the vehicle.

PS Gearbox needs a rebuild, debating just replacing the pump since I will have half of the system apart.
Other than that, it ran well!

And Lumbee did present valid points for why people get off road lights (and I observed said points)
Guess I will need to start looking into those as well :grinpimp:

Power windows are quite sad, they are going to need some love as well

Got some posing shots while waiting on people / other vehicles.

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broke the pittman arm puller tool I bought at orielys, going to see what awaits on amazon
Well got damn. . How'd you do that?
 
Well got damn. . How'd you do that?


A few clues were likely missed along the way :D

Clue 1, jaws were not wide enough for the selector shaft (had to widen them with the angle grinder :hillbilly: )

Clue 2, the tool came with a built in 3/8" drive for a ratchet (largest size they had at Orlieys) (Should have shopped around for a 1/2" model)



The outside of the tool accepted a 18mm socket, after multiple sessions with the breaker bar, I sent it with the impact, so no success.

Probably best that the threads stripped out.

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broke the pittman arm puller tool I bought at orielys, going to see what awaits on amazon
I rent tools from O'reillys, Advanced, and Autozone. Some are clearly abused but some are brand new. Doesn't cost anything out of pocket.
 
If you're rebuilding the box, heat the pitman arm up good and hot around the sector shaft. Next, pitman arm puller goes on and gets tensioned till it feels like it'll break. Then smack the pitman arm with a big hammer. It should pop off then.

Edit: the splines are tapered, so hit down if you can, but any hit will help break it loose if the heat and puller don't get it.
 
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2 of my favorite "tools"
1. A drip pan from the local auto parts store, an excellent thing to put on top of wooden work bench, easy to clean, and great for oily / greasy things.
2. The 2x4 contraption, has just been the right size for pounding out bearings from wheel hubs, snapped studs from rotors
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Before

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After:
Brushed / used a rust converting primer, and then painted the dash support black
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Ordered some more knipex snapring pliers 😎

Will likely be re-sealing my PS pump since @lumbee1 had commented that it did not sound well while we were wheeling, that and since the PS gearbox is off, things are a looooooooooot easier to get to :D

and while I am in there, this is the 1 remaining side that I have not rebuilt a knuckle or hub 🤔
 
Part way through the gearbox rebuild, after re-assembling, the input shaft is a bit stiff when rotated, I marked the housing, and the inner shaft, but I seem to have not marked the lock ring.

I dont think that the lock ring controls tension?
 
Part way through the gearbox rebuild, after re-assembling, the input shaft is a bit stiff when rotated, I marked the housing, and the inner shaft, but I seem to have not marked the lock ring.

I dont think that the lock ring controls tension?

The preload nut controls bearing preload. I spun my preload nut and lock ring down to my marks and reassembled. I didn't realize I needed to keep spinning the preload nut two or three more times before it was truly tight. I had a fully 70* to 80* degrees of play in the steering wheel after it was fully rebuilt and installed on the truck. I had to remove, drain, disassemble and spin the preload nut and lock ring tighter to the marks.

The lock ring doesn't control tension but all three should have marks and they should line up. Are you sure you didn't mark the lock ring? Without proper tension from the lock ring, the preload nut could back off and cause excessive play.
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If it is fully assembled, you might try backing off the adjusting screw on the top essentially keeping it loose for now. FSM states 40mm of play in the steering wheel.
 

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