Radiator blow out (1 Viewer)

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Hello everyone,

Have a '97 Lexus LX450 that I've owned for a year and just joined today after hearing about this forum from my son (and having a radiator blow out).

While on my way to work today and a heard a loud pop and then a huge cloud of smoke just as I was pulling in.

Opened up the hood and all hoses were intact so poured 3 gallons in and watched it come pouring out of the top.

Did a little research and found out that this could be from a head gasket leak. Is there a way to test or examine the engine to see if the head gasket is the cause prior to fixing the radiator?


Nate
 
There are block testing kits to check for combustion gasses in the cooling system but I do not know if they work if the cooling system can't be pressurized.

You can remove the oil cap and see if there is evidence of coolant condensation inside the cap. You can also pull the spark plugs and look for evidence of coolant washing them or the tops of the pistons. Particularly #1 and #6.
 
Sorry to hear... Why did you think this is a HG issue? Where was the white cloud of smoke comin from? Are you sure your old radiator didn't just take a dump? Are you experiencing any blown HG symptoms since? I understand you have a 4.5L, so blown HG is fairly common for these motors despite how much ppl on here thinks HG replacement is PM like changing brake pads..:bang:
 
Hello everyone,

Have a '97 Lexus LX450 that I've owned for a year and just joined today after hearing about this forum from my son (and having a radiator blow out).

While on my way to work today and a heard a loud pop and then a huge cloud of smoke just as I was pulling in.

Opened up the hood and all hoses were intact so poured 3 gallons in and watched it come pouring out of the top.

Did a little research and found out that this could be from a head gasket leak. Is there a way to test or examine the engine to see if the head gasket is the cause prior to fixing the radiator?


Nate
If the top of the radiator had started to yellow, then it was old age.

My radiator exploded and ripped the top tank end to end because the radiator cap was too gunked up to open fast enough and mine was preceded by a belt breakage and sudden water pump stoppage.

I have put another 100K on my truck since that day without a HG leak, so, depending on your maintenance history, it's not 100% a HG thing.
 
Sorry to hear... Why did you think this is a HG issue? Where was the white cloud of smoke comin from? Are you sure your old radiator didn't just take a dump? Are you experiencing any blown HG symptoms since? I understand you have a 4.5L, so blown HG is fairly common for these motors despite how much ppl on here thinks HG replacement is PM like changing brake pads..:bang:
Thanks for the response,

I've heard that Head Gaskets go own these as well as from others who say they don't go out.

It was such a big blow out and water was just pouring out all along the top which made me worried it was something worse.

Also want to be prepared for a bigger job if that happens and am thinking the worst case scenario.

Nate
 
Thanks for the response,

I've heard that Head Gaskets go own these as well as from others who say they don't go out.

It was such a big blow out and water was just pouring out all along the top which made me worried it was something worse.

Also want to be prepared for a bigger job if that happens and am thinking the worst case scenario.

Nate
When mine blew, I thought I blew a tire, as it raised my hood about 1-1/2". It was LOUD.

 
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Is the top (tank) of the radiator just cracked, or are parts missing, blown out, wide open??

In an emergency IME you can patch the top tank using multiple layers of fiberglass cloth with a two part epoxy squished into the fibers if you just have a crack (not wide open/blown open). I did this when I needed to drive the vehicle, was about to go out of town (fly) and didn't have time to wait for a replacement radiator. It held with the radiator cap on the first "click", not seated all the way, and the engine did not overheat.

But then if you have access to a replacement radiator that's the better solution, of course.

And while you're in there it's a good time to install a new OEM radiator cap (if you get an aftermarket radiator that comes with a cap toss that cap), new Thermostat, check the water pump for noise/roughness when turned by hand, replace the belts, hoses, etc,etc.
 
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A TYC-1918 is in your future, at a minimum. As the others have mentioned, when the top tank blows, it's explosive. My top tank shredded into chunks no bigger than 4-6" in length, blew the hood latch mechanism out of alignment and lifted both sides of the hood about 1-2" beyond that. I found the radiator cap still glued tightly to the fill spout; it had never vented, building immense pressure until it popped. Surprisingly, the radiator held enormous pressure considering, but the top tank is still the weakest link.

Put a new Radiator in, check your hoses and heater lines, along with the heater valve, looking for signs of seep from the clamped ends, and go from there. I wouldn't even bother with a thermostat, but definitely GET A NEW OEM radiator cap. Do not reuse the old one, as it could have contributed to the pressure problem.

Just today, I was out in the garage and removed my OEM radiator cap, wiped it down, cleaned it up, and inspected it closely...

Once bitten, twice shy.
 
I was fortunate that I was just a quarter mile from my work when it went. I looked in my rear view and saw this huge cloud of white smoke behind me and then as I pulled in of course the hood was steaming.

What makes the TYC-1918 a better option than OEM. I got a quote from the dealer for 1000 for the job assuming they don't find other stuff wrong.

I also have a main seal that is leaking that I've been wanting to get fixed. I'm guessing this might be a good time to get that over with as well or can they do this job with the radiator in the car?

Nate
 
There are block testing kits to check for combustion gasses in the cooling system but I do not know if they work if the cooling system can't be pressurized.

You can remove the oil cap and see if there is evidence of coolant condensation inside the cap. You can also pull the spark plugs and look for evidence of coolant washing them or the tops of the pistons. Particularly #1 and #6.

Thanks for the thoughts. No signs off foam or discoloring on the dipstick or the cap.
 
Is the top (tank) of the radiator just cracked, or are parts missing, blown out, wide open??

In an emergency IME you can patch the top tank using multiple layers of fiberglass cloth with a two part epoxy squished into the fibers if you just have a crack (not wide open/blown open). I did this when I needed to drive the vehicle, was about to go out of town (fly) and didn't have time to wait for a replacement radiator. It held with the radiator cap on the first "click", not seated all the way, and the engine did not overheat.

But then if you have access to a replacement radiator that's the better solution, of course.

And while you're in there it's a good time to install a new OEM radiator cap (if you get an aftermarket radiator that comes with a cap toss that cap), new Thermostat, check the water pump for noise/roughness when turned by hand, replace the belts, hoses, etc,etc.


I think the plastic separated from the fins as I couldn't see a crack or anything. When I was pouring water in it just came pouring down from the top like a water fall running down the backside of the radiator. I've heard that a temporary fix will be okay but not sure this would be fixable if the plastic top separates (which is what I'm guessing/assuming happened).
 
I was fortunate that I was just a quarter mile from my work when it went. I looked in my rear view and saw this huge cloud of white smoke behind me and then as I pulled in of course the hood was steaming.

What makes the TYC-1918 a better option than OEM. I got a quote from the dealer for 1000 for the job assuming they don't find other stuff wrong.

I also have a main seal that is leaking that I've been wanting to get fixed. I'm guessing this might be a good time to get that over with as well or can they do this job with the radiator in the car?

Nate
Just get the OEM radiator.

Front main seal or rear main seal?

Front main seal and oil pump seal, this is the time to get that done with the radiator out.

I also recommend the distributor seal, valve cover seal, spark plug tube seals and any power steering hoses or transmission cooler hoses.

And ALL coolant hoses, thermostat, heater valve.


and a lot of other stuff because.


Rear main seal is a whole other ball game.
 
Just get the OEM radiator.

Front main seal or rear main seal?

Front main seal and oil pump seal, this is the time to get that done with the radiator out.

I also recommend the distributor seal, valve cover seal, spark plug tube seals and any power steering hoses or transmission cooler hoses.

And ALL coolant hoses, thermostat, heater valve.


and a lot of other stuff because.


Rear main seal is a whole other ball game.

Yes, I'm pretty sure it is the front main seal on the crank. Those are all great suggestions and the dealer said it takes an hour and a half off labor to do that seal so that saves a couple hundred right there.

Why the OEM and not the TYC - 1918?

Nate
 
Yes, I'm pretty sure it is the front main seal on the crank. Those are all great suggestions and the dealer said it takes an hour and a half off labor to do that seal so that saves a couple hundred right there.

Why the OEM and not the TYC - 1918?

Nate
How long did the OEM radiator last? Mine was 18 years.

If you read the reviews in here they're all over the place because someone's trying to save $5.

Unless you have serious mods, tow a lot, or wheel these HARD, then they go Ron Davis for $$$$.

Go with what was made and designed for it and works as designed with no modifications. Simple.
 
You keep saying dealer. Why are you taking a 25 year old vehicle to a dealer for repairs? You should look for someone who has experience working on these trucks and that is likely not your local dealer.

If you are going to pay someone to do the repair then you’d better have them check the head gasket. You sure wouldn’t want to pay them to do the work twice. When my radiator blew I convinced myself it wasn’t the head gasket. I replaced the radiator and all the other “while you are in there” stuff only to have to take it all apart for the head gasket.
 
The AZ guys use the TYC-1918 and if it's good enough for them, it good enough for me. It is a physically thicker radiator with better cooling capacity than OEM and it costs ~$150. They do have QC issues and I had to send back the first one I received due to a bent frame. The second one however was perfect.

BTW, OEM is always my first choice unless something has been proven to be better.
 
You keep saying dealer. Why are you taking a 25 year old vehicle to a dealer for repairs? You should look for someone who has experience working on these trucks and that is likely not your local dealer.

If you are going to pay someone to do the repair then you’d better have them check the head gasket. You sure wouldn’t want to pay them to do the work twice. When my radiator blew I convinced myself it wasn’t the head gasket. I replaced the radiator and all the other “while you are in there” stuff only to have to take it all apart for the head gasket.

Great thoughts. I have not been able to find someone local here in Michigan who really has experience on the 80's series and everyone I'm talking to is giving me prices of the dealer without OEM, plus they can give me a loaner while they work on it.

Maybe there is a way to connect the radiator without actually installing and checking to see if the gases are leaking into the cooling system so that I don't have to repeat the same issue.

Thanks for posting.
 
How long did the OEM radiator last? Mine was 18 years.

If you read the reviews in here they're all over the place because someone's trying to save $5.

Unless you have serious mods, tow a lot, or wheel these HARD, then they go Ron Davis for $$$$.

Go with what was made and designed for it and works as designed with no modifications. Simple.

I've only owned the 450 for a year and not sure how long the radiator lasts. Can you see if they are the original OEM that was installed. If that is true then it would be 25 years.
 
@Natcruiser

I'd get to know your local landcruiser brothers & sisters in your neck of the wood for some support and overall knowledge transfer. Check out the clubhouse section of this forum and see if you can attend a local get together. We have a monthly breakfast and that's about the time we get to see each other, for the most part. Chances are someone will help you with projects as well as help you get familiar with your LX. It'd a little daunting when you get tons of replies to a simple issue on this board!

I replaced my OEM radiator with a Koyo radiator and it's also a good bang for the buck. It fit like a glove, no funny business to deal with.

Also, I'd get familiar with the FAQ section of this forum as it has tons of info that you'll find useful.

Welcome to the madness :)
 
I've only owned the 450 for a year and not sure how long the radiator lasts. Can you see if they are the original OEM that was installed. If that is true then it would be 25 years.
There is a sticker or blue ink up near the radiator cap that shows the manufacturer.

If I can find a picture, I'll post it.
 

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