Rebuilt Transfer Case Won’t Shift (1 Viewer)

[rstoddard]

I had my transfer case rebuilt last January. I’m try to connect my AA dual lever shifter but I can’t get the Hi-Low shift lever to switch to neutral or out of gear. I’m only able to pull it by hand using the extension rod for the shifter, so I don’t know if I’m getting enough torque on it. I haven’t engaged the 2WD/4WD mode selector to see if that makes any difference.

Any ideas on how to get this to shift? If there any reason it would get locked up? There isn’t any way to look I there since there is virtually no clearance above the cover/lever. I don’t have any reason to think is wasn’t assembled correctly.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[h82crash]

What do you mean, only able to pull it by hand? Does that mean you are shifting it? Are you driving it while trying to shift it? None of the gears are synchronized. So, if it is just sitting still, the shift ring may not be in alignment with the gear you're trying to shift to. But I'm thinking it is your linkage isn't assembled properly. Without more information it is hard to diagnose. Anyway, if it is not on the road yet, try putting the trans in neutral and turning the rear driveshaft or output flange a little, then try shifting it.

 

[Living in the Past]

Is this on a 78 FJ40? Which direction does the high low lever on the transfer case point. Stock it would point forward. Not 100% sure but believe with a twin stick that lever needs to point to the side. For me just removing the shift gate that prevents 2WD low range does the same thing as a twin stick setup.

 

[rstoddard]

What do you mean, only able to pull it by hand? Does that mean you are shifting it? Are you driving it while trying to shift it? None of the gears are synchronized. So, if it is just sitting still, the shift ring may not be in alignment with the gear you're trying to shift to. But I'm thinking it is your linkage isn't assembled properly. Without more information it is hard to diagnose. Anyway, if it is not on the road yet, try putting the trans in neutral and turning the rear driveshaft or output flange a little, then try shifting it.

It was just sitting in the garage. I was trying to manipulate the shifter by hand using the dual shifter rod (which was disconnected from the shifter arm). I think it was just in a bit of a bind from torquing the drum nut. Once I moved it around, it freed up and I was able to shift it. I discovered it was actually locked up in neutral; I just couldn't get it to go into gear. After moving things, it shifted fine. Now I'm trying to get the shifter dialed in. It's a real PITA. 15 years ago is shifted fine, then the whole mount on the transmission came loose on the trail and I had to reinstall it. Ever since I've had a hard time getting it to shift easily between HI and LOW. I even had to cut the floor a bit more to give it more throw distance, and it still in coming up a tad short. Looks like I need a little more adjustment. AGH!!!


Let me ask another question since I have you on the line: I was reading the FSM Chassis Manual and it said (when torquing the Parking Brake Axle Nut to "switch system to Front Drive" and use an SST to keep the front shaft from turning, and then torque to 101 flbs, and to then measure the output shaft bearing preload with a Spring Scale, and to shim accordingly. I never heard of that, and I just got a copy of the FSM, so this is news to me. I just torqued 100 flbs locking the flywheel from turning, and used a brand new (thick) washer, shim and stake nut called out by Toyota for my year of FJ40. DID I DO ANYTHING WRONG HERE? DO people actually follow the FSM procedure? This is the first I have ever hear of this procedure.

 

[rstoddard]

Is this on a 78 FJ40? Which direction does the high low lever on the transfer case point. Stock it would point forward. Not 100% sure but believe with a twin stick that lever needs to point to the side. For me just removing the shift gate that prevents 2WD low range does the same thing as a twin stick setup.

You are right. I wish I had left mine stock. I took that shift gate off mine and loved it! I think the reason I changed it was because I put an SM420 Transmission in and as I recall I couldn't hook up the stock linkage to the SM420, so I went to the dual shifter. If you know anyone running Stock Linkage on a SM420 let me know.... Maybe I'll go back. I still have the linkage, although I broke the shifter knob (Damn!)

 

[Living in the Past]

You are right. I wish I had left mine stock. I took that shift gate off mine and loved it! I think the reason I changed it was because I put an SM420 Transmission in and as I recall I couldn't hook up the stock linkage to the SM420, so I went to the dual shifter. If you know anyone running Stock Linkage on a SM420 let me know.... Maybe I'll go back. I still have the linkage, although I broke the shifter knob (Damn!)

I looked at going SM420 years ago. Even had one and old adapter (thicker) that equalled the stock length of the H42 setup. Back then thought some made an adapter that allowed the stock transfer shifter to work. I'm debating putting an H41 in my 68 FJ40. Have both sixteen and nineteen spline versions. Either way will use the later four speed transfer case shifter. Those have the larger thread allowing the 8/80+ transfer shift knobs. Gives you a lot more options for a knob. Late 40 series, 60 series and early 70 series share the same shift pattern. I know 80 and 100 series use the same thread.

 

[hobbes]

Let me ask another question since I have you on the line: I was reading the FSM Chassis Manual and it said (when torquing the Parking Brake Axle Nut to "switch system to Front Drive" and use an SST to keep the front shaft from turning, and then torque to 101 flbs, and to then measure the output shaft bearing preload with a Spring Scale, and to shim accordingly. I never heard of that, and I just got a copy of the FSM, so this is news to me. I just torqued 100 flbs locking the flywheel from turning, and used a brand new (thick) washer, shim and stake nut called out by Toyota for my year of FJ40. DID I DO ANYTHING WRONG HERE? DO people actually follow the FSM procedure? This is the first I have ever hear of this procedure.

Maybe. Maybe not. The shimming process sets the bearing preload (and helps prevent leaks). You can read about it to see if you’ve done it correctly starting with Step 11 on the Coolerman page here.