Cross member location (1 Viewer)

[tstepp920]

I want to move this cross member to get better access to the parking brake assembly in the rear of my H55F.
Can I move it back a couple of inches?

 

[Living in the Past]

No help I'm going with the hand brake on the rear axle. I am debating if it's possible to find a later 70 series in Australia that still six lug but besides being a full floater it has disc brake and a parking brake.

 

[3_puppies]

others have moved/modified that tube for years without issue
some have made it a bolt on afair, others have welded it further back for clearance.

 

[Living in the Past]

Took some pictures a few years back of this area in my 79. Not sure the fuel tank may have clearance issues as well.

 

[Living in the Past]

Not around my 79 but looked my 82 tub and frame with the fuel tank still in it. It sits right behind torque tub.

Couple pictures I found of my 79. Would not relocate that torque without at least setting the tub and fuel tank on the tub.

 

[tstepp920]

I think I’m going to go the bolt on/off option that way I don’t create other issues.

 

[middlecalf]

How do you do a bolt on/off version that originally is welded to both the frame (outside) and box (inside)? Maybe something that bolts through the top and bottom frame flanges?

 

[tstepp920]

How do you do a bolt on/off version that originally is welded to both the frame (outside) and box (inside)? Maybe something that bolts through the top and bottom frame flanges?

Cut it loose. Weld plates over the original holes. Shorten the tube and add plates with holes for bolts

 

[Living in the Past]

Are you planning on replacing the stock fuel tank with an aftermarket tank? Then redo the stock exhaust?

My first picture shows how close the torque tube is to the fuel tank. This is my reason to move the hand brake to the rear axle. If your planning on going disc brakes on the back axle believe some have used a GM option that including a hand brake. The torque tub seem like a can of worms or like domino's where each mod causes another mod to be made.

 

[tstepp920]

The tube will be in its original location just removable

 

[middlecalf]

But it only bolts to the box (inside) of the frame? That’s not the load carrying part of the frame, it just keeps the frame flanges from collapsing/pinching or spreading when under load. The torque tube needs to bolt to the outside which is the frame otherwise you’re going to be pushing loads into the box portion that was not designed to carry such. These LC frames were designed to flex.

 

[tstepp920]

But it only bolts to the box (inside) of the frame? That’s not the load carrying part of the frame, it just keeps the frame flanges from collapsing/pinching or spreading when under load. The torque tube needs to bolt to the outside which is the frame otherwise you’re going to be pushing loads into the box portion that was not designed to carry such. These LC frames were designed to flex.

hmmmm.....gonna have to think on this a little longer. Nothing seems simple.

 

[MOTOV8R]

But it only bolts to the box (inside) of the frame? That’s not the load carrying part of the frame, it just keeps the frame flanges from collapsing/pinching or spreading when under load. The torque tube needs to bolt to the outside which is the frame otherwise you’re going to be pushing loads into the box portion that was not designed to carry such. These LC frames were designed to flex.

If he cuts it off and adds a flange the section of tube that connects the outer and inner frame will still be intact. It should work.

 

[middlecalf]

Therefore the loads that need to get into the torque tube (from differential frame bending) will then have to “pass” through the box (inner) frame. Compare the thickness of the box member to the frame member, and also all of the access holes in the box member, and it should be obvious the box is not for carrying frame loads other then keeping the frame flanges stable due to frame lateral instability (and provide mount surfaces for non-load carrying stuff). If this rig won’t see any serious off road action then probably not an issue. If, however, it is, then … GL. Over.

 

[B y r o n]

When I put the NV4500 in my FJ40 I thought about moving the crossmember. It ended up that I didn't need to. If you are going to put it back in the same place maybe something like this would work:

I found this on eBay and may fit the crossmember tube.

Cut the crossmember off at the frame and weld in one half of the joint. Shorten the tube to account for the joint, orient the pieces and weld the second joint half to the crossmember. Now you would have a removable crossmember.

 

[Living in the Past]

@tstepp920 have you read thru Poser's thread H55F into a 79 FJ40 lately? It's linked in the 40 series FAQ. 9 pages with plenty of other info need to read thru to get the information about the hand brake. He ended up lowering the setup to make it work. This also helped with clearance for the higher top plate on the H55F.

Before I purchased my H55F I had already acquired a H42 with a split transfer case and rear axle from the same FJ40. This was before everyone started gold plating anything 40 series related.

 

[numby]

But it only bolts to the box (inside) of the frame? That’s not the load carrying part of the frame, it just keeps the frame flanges from collapsing/pinching or spreading when under load. The torque tube needs to bolt to the outside which is the frame otherwise you’re going to be pushing loads into the box portion that was not designed to carry such. These LC frames were designed to flex.

Absolutely ⬆︎

The inner channel is much thinner and prone to rust out due to dirt/debris working into the seam between the heavier "outer" and "thinner" inner channels. You'd need to create or weld in bracketry that attaches to the outer channel. A better way would be to cut out the existing torque tube, weld up the holes, cut new holes further back, and slide the tube through from the outside then weld into place.

If you're like me that means re-powdercaoting your frame hence my commitment to a 4 speed.

 

[Living in the Past]

Therefore the loads that need to get into the torque tube (from differential frame bending) will then have to “pass” through the box (inner) frame. Compare the thickness of the box member to the frame member, and also all of the access holes in the box member, and it should be obvious the box is not for carrying frame loads other then keeping the frame flanges stable due to frame lateral instability (and provide mount surfaces for non-load carrying stuff). If this rig won’t see any serious off road action then probably not an issue. If, however, it is, then … GL. Over.

As for non load carry 8/80 the rear engine mount moved to crossmember under the transmission which bolted to the inside box of the frame.

One thing I haven't figured out for sure. On the frame up to 8/80 there is a larger oval hole cut into the inner frame. 8/80+ this is just a round circle. On the earlier frame it effects where the front two bolt holes for the L brackets goes. Better fill in the hole then drill new hole for the bolts or make a plate with four fixed nuts that slides in behind.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Therefore the loads that need to get into the torque tube (from differential frame bending) will then have to “pass” through the box (inner) frame. Compare the thickness of the box member to the frame member, and also all of the access holes in the box member, and it should be obvious the box is not for carrying frame loads other then keeping the frame flanges stable due to frame lateral instability (and provide mount surfaces for non-load carrying stuff). If this rig won’t see any serious off road action then probably not an issue. If, however, it is, then … GL. Over.

If he keeps that existing flange portion that is welded to the inner frame it should be pretty strong and transmit the load to the tube. Since it’s an h55 it will also get an additional tranny mount that ties the frame rails together as well.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Absolutely ⬆︎

The inner channel is much thinner and prone to rust out due to dirt/debris working into the seam between the heavier "outer" and "thinner" inner channels. You'd need to create or weld in bracketry that attaches to the outer channel. A better way would be to cut out the existing torque tube, weld up the holes, cut new holes further back, and slide the tube through from the outside then weld into place.

If you're like me that means re-powdercaoting your frame hence my commitment to a 4 speed.

He doesn’t want to move it, it will hit the gas tank. He wants to make it removeable.