Method Race Wheels Beadlocks Issue (1 Viewer)

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Method Race Wheels MR105 Wheel Matte Black 17x8.5 6x5.5 (6x139.7) 0mm Offset with Beadlocks

I've had these on my truck for a few years now and they have seen some solid use. Pre-Covid I took a hard hit on the rock ring and noticed it snapped off a bolt head. I ignored it for a week or so and that led to more heads popping off. The bolts for the beadlocks are 5/16-18 1.25" Grade 8 zinc plated. I had a friend help me remove the 4 bolt shafts from the rim and installed new bolts to manufacturer's tq spec (20ft lbs). The last bolt being installed snapped on install and the tire place said it may be because the KO2 tires have a thick bead?

Anyway, that rim popped the heads twice more and then a swapped it to spare duty. Went to go wheeling yesterday and got to the park to air down and saw this:
20220305_104022[1].jpg


This is now the second rim that is popping off heads. When I say heads, I guess I really mean snapping the bolt shafts just past the threaded portion in the wheel. The rim didn't seem to have any damage on the ring where the bolts snapped off. They seem to have snapped off on the hour long drive on the highway up to the wheeling spot.

Here is a pic of how the others snapped of previously:
20201108_125053.jpg


I am wondering if anyone else has run into this issue or if anyone has input on whether swapping to Grade 9 bolts should help? I will note that both times I've lost bolt heads it has been on the driver's side front wheel, but it has now been on two different wheels.
 
Curious, did Method shed any light on this issue? This is a serious issue and you can't be the only one having it.
 
The first time I called them to see about getting a new lock ring and checking the tq spec I failed to ask about it as an overall concern. I will be looping back this week to discuss with them further about it now. The wheels came with Grade 8 hardware and I have replaced some with new Grade 8 bolts. One of the new bolts is what snapped on first install at their tq spec.

I'm concerned that these may look great, but will not hold up over time on the rocks.
 
One of the new bolts is what snapped on first install at their tq spec.
Are you saying that a grade 8 bolt snapped off when installing to 20 ft/lbs?
If that's the case, then is was a damaged bolt or your torque wrench is very very wrong.
 
I have run multiple sets of beadlock wheels and this was always an issue. Every morning before wheeling I’d do a bolt check and replace the bolts that have snapped and top of pressures and move on. Doesn’t matter the torque you use as long as it’s within reason.
 
use a lower grade. the problem is lack of elasticity. (IMO)
 
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The Grade 8 hardware came with the wheels, all I have done is source the same hardware in bulk as replacements.

Taking the wheel off the truck and removing the ring (24 bolts) and then drilling and removing the broken bolt shafts every month is a non-starter. I will sell these or put them on a non-wheeling 80 Series before I get down that rabbit hole. At this point, the beadlocks are causing flats more often than if I just ran the stock wheels.

Yes, the bolt snapped off during install (by the tech at the tire shop doing the install). It was the very last bolt to be final tq'd. This was on the spare tire rim (not pictured) and I know he both took his time and was using an offsetting pattern as he marked every other bolt head to keep a pattern.

I'm not sure if downgrading to a Grade 5 bolt would help or make it worse. May offer more flex from shearing, but if they are snapping the extra strength of the Grade 9 may help.

I know there are several of us running the Method Beadlocks. I was hoping others may have a fix or let me know if this is normal, in which case I will swap to a different setup.
 
Does Method offer an anti-coning ring or is the bolt holes in the ring machined to compensate for a wide tire bead? Are you torquing the bolts in a progressive manner to get to the final torque spec? Using anti-seize or dry?

This is absolutely not normal or acceptable. I've been running the same Champion beadlocks on two daily driven trucks for over thirty years and never had a bolt snap nor loosen.
 
I'm not sure if downgrading to a Grade 5 bolt would help or make it worse.
In a word, yes, it would make you're situation worse. Grade 5 bolts tensile strength is between 105,00 to 120,000 psi, while a grade 8 bolts is 150,000 psi. Ultimately, the bolt that you select will depend on how strong it needs to be. The more demanding you're application, the higher the grade bolt you'll require.
 
The bolts for the beadlocks are 5/16-18 1.25" Grade 8 zinc plated. I had a friend help me remove the 4 bolt shafts from the rim and installed new bolts to manufacturer's tq spec (20ft lbs).
I just checked my torque chart, it's showing that the correct torque spec for a 5/16X18 grade 8 steel bolt is 18 foot pounds, not 20. The torque spec for a fine thread 5/16X24 thread grade 8 steel bolt is 20 foot pounds.
 
@Rifleman .... ugh, I just went off what the rep told me on the phone. Not at all helpful then as the threads are coarse, not fine. I appreciate the assist.

That would explain the new bolt snapping, not sure about the wheel that happened this weekend. Seems once one lets go, the others start popping off in quick order, at least once the tire is aired up to road pressure (32psi for me).

Original install was done dry as Method did not specify a procedure. The replacement bolts were put in with anti-seize on them after some being difficult to remove. The bolts were tq'd in a progressive manner for certain, but I did not ask the tech what values he used for that.
 

Best Torque Practices When Using Never-Seez:

A main function of using Never-Seez lubricant is to reduce the amount of friction when assembling nuts and bolts. This allows you to apply the least amount of torque to achieve the maximum tightening force.

Application Case Study:

Use Never-Seez on both the threads and bolt cap. The bolt cap is a commonly neglected area. However, it contributes more friction than the threads. Applying Never-Seez to the bolt cap improves product function and doesn’t lead to a destructive disassembly.

The use of Never-Seez Regular Grade requires about 30% less torque while providing the same clamping force on threads. Never-Seez Pure Nickel reduces torque by 15%, and Mariner’s Choice requires 41% less torque. This torque percentage is even lower if Never-Seez is applied to both the threads and bolt cap, which is the preferred method.

END QUOTE

Reference data for statements and calculations below link.

You are very over torqued and this is breaking the heads off.
The torque applied is a "rough" indicator of the tension in the bolt. The tension in the bolt provides the clamp load.
Bolts should be stressed to 80-85% of their yield strength, based on assembly with clean, dry threads and new fasteners.
When you add lubricant, the amount of torque required to reach the axial stress in the fastener goes down, due to loss of friction in the assembly.

SO... Dry assembly torque of 5/16-18, plated, Grade 8 bolt is 18 ft#
Using regular grade never-seez reduces that by 30% per the manufacturer; 18*.7=12.6ft#; and you were at 20Ft#... or 1.6x the recommended torque, you are VERY lucky the heads broke off and the threads in the wheels didn't strip out.

And BTW... there is no such thing as an SAE grade 9.
 
^ this

I also have the similar Method wheels so I am reading up carefully. Something just didn’t seem right and anti-Seize torqueing may explain it
 
I have a set of vision beadlock wheels, tires with thicker beads (I have coopers) cause the rock ring to deflect and bow. This applies angular force to the head of the bolt, which causes them to snap.

Once the beadlock ring mates with the surface of the wheel, this changes to some extent - but you will probably reach torque before the ring flattens. I called vision and they said they have never heard of this problem - though everyone I know that runs their wheels has called about it and asked for the same reason. Either they did not listen, or just don't care. I asked for ring spacers and they said they have never heard of those either.

Trail ready, walker evans have ring spacers to match your bead thickness.

You absolutely have to use anti seize on the bolts or they will snap heads and torque will not be proper. It needs to be applied where the head of the bolt meets the washer as well as the threads. I can tell by your picture the rock ring is not making contact with the wheel surface, which is odd because BFG's have thinner beads than some tires.
 
You are very over torqued and this is breaking the heads off.
The torque applied is a "rough" indicator of the tension in the bolt. The tension in the bolt provides the clamp load.
Bolts should be stressed to 80-85% of their yield strength, based on assembly with clean, dry threads and new fasteners.
When you add lubricant, the amount of torque required to reach the axial stress in the fastener goes down, due to loss of friction in the assembly.

The bolt actually ends up very under "torqued" since the torque being applied is lost to friction rather than being the result of clamping force. Bolt torque is a crap method for determining clamping force in this application - which is a summed up version of what you said there.

When the rock ring does not have the proper amount of clamping force or the bead is too thick for the wheel design, the rings deflect when tightened which puts angular load on the bolt heads - and they arent designed for that = snap. The bolt head is the fulcrum point, as the outer edge of the ring contacts the bead first. If the rock ring reaches full torque with a properly lubricated bolt before making contact with the surface of the wheel, the bead is too thick for the wheel design.
 
Yes, all the bolt calculations rely on proper application of the fastener, clamping a solid load to provide pure axial stress to the bolt providing clamping force.
If the fastener isn't used per design, then is being misapplied and all calculations are null and void.

If the OP is fixated on this particular tire make & model, then it would appear to make sense to have the bead seat on the wheel relived to fit that brand.
 
I'd definitely be more inclined to shim the ring than machine the wheel.
 
Turning the wheel would be a piece of cake. Making a shim would be a pain in the d!ck in comparison.
Are shims available for purchase?
 
This is where I found the Grade 9 info, but I'm not an engineer, so who knows:


Grade 9 Bolts​

Grade 9 structural bolts, also known as grade 9 hex cap screws, are one the strongest structural bolts that can be used today. While the typical grade 8 bolt has a tensile strength of 150,000 PSI, a grade 9 bolt has a tensile strength of 180,000PSI.

Grade 9 bolts are ideal for heavy-duty applications and are also often used in heavy machinery such as bulldozers. Not only are these bolts considerably stronger than their grade 8 counterparts, but they are also considerably more resistant to corrosive elements as they are made with yellow zinc chromate.

While the SAE grading system only goes up to grade 8, grade 9 bolts are without a doubt a stronger structural bolt.


You are correct, the Grade 9 is not SAE. I just want to stop replacing these bolts. :bang:

Regardless, it seems the consensus is to possibly switch tires or find a proper ring spacer. I'm not married to the KO2s they are just what I bought not expecting there to be any issues. I'm not sure the photo is telling an accurate story as pic 2 was the result from the first wheel that popped heads off that I found after wheeling, so it was dirty under where the ring deformed. Pic 1 and pic 2 are of similar issue on two different wheels.

What I am seeing is that once one head pops off, others follow suit in short order. One actually popped off once while the truck was in the air on a lift at the Toyota dealer.

Past that there seems to be differing knowledgeable opinions about whether to use anti-seize or not and if the bolt is over or under torqued? I see now that 20ft# is not correct and 18ft# is the max and only a valid number if the ring is making good contact with the wheel.
 
Grade 9...who knew! I learned something today.
 

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