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- #41
Bumper installed:
Diode Dynamics SS3's with amber back light are here, need to decide how to do the electrical distribution and then these will be installed:
Also managed to get the Diode Dynamics SL1's installed in the low beams. I had these on my 100 and they are great, high quality LED replacements that don't blind anyone. The trick is that they approximate a halogen filament (thin) and send the light in a specific pattern (to the sides, you have to orient the LED relative to your housing so that it sends the correct pattern). Much cheaper than a full projector retrofit and much simpler. I ordered 9006's for the low beams, left the high beams alone.
These are not listed as fitting for the FZJ80 on the DD website, but there is a trick to making them work:
The three humps make the tabs on the bulb run right into the ring, preventing the tabls from riding up the ramp.
Ring with material removed:
Lights stacked, SL1 below in black (look close). More space on the normal halogen bulbs:
Diode Dynamics SS3's with amber back light are here, need to decide how to do the electrical distribution and then these will be installed:
Also managed to get the Diode Dynamics SL1's installed in the low beams. I had these on my 100 and they are great, high quality LED replacements that don't blind anyone. The trick is that they approximate a halogen filament (thin) and send the light in a specific pattern (to the sides, you have to orient the LED relative to your housing so that it sends the correct pattern). Much cheaper than a full projector retrofit and much simpler. I ordered 9006's for the low beams, left the high beams alone.
These are not listed as fitting for the FZJ80 on the DD website, but there is a trick to making them work:
- On the back of each headlight housing is an adapter plate with three small Philips head screws, pull these out (note orientation, they only go in one way but it's easier if you note it now).
- There are three humps that interfere with the SL1's body and prevent the tabs from inserting into the headlight housing enough to engage the tabs. With a razor blade, or sand paper on a flat surface, you want to remove some material. Don't go crazy as you need a little bit to help retain the bulb. I took them down about half way. Attempt to fit the removed rings onto the bulbs and it will all make sense, see pictures below:
The three humps make the tabs on the bulb run right into the ring, preventing the tabls from riding up the ramp.
Ring with material removed:
Lights stacked, SL1 below in black (look close). More space on the normal halogen bulbs:
- Orient the bulbs so the LED's face as horizontal as possible (there are instructions on how to do this from DD), I use some dielectric grease inside the connectors and on the red orings to help install. Tip, it's best to have the back of the bulb face down (fan facing down, so that it wont collect water). Zip tie the ballast on each side as you see fit.
- DONE
enjoy your headlights.
