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That’s great, thank you so much.@Indyteecee
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That’s great, thank you so much.@Indyteecee
The free PDF version of the manual can be downloaded from the Resources Section (link at the top of the page)
If I were you, I would follow the FSM instructions to remove the gear, inspect the shaft and woodruff key for any damage and, assuming everything looks good, reinstall it to the FSM torque spec.I inspected it close and wasn’t able to see a damn thing wrong with it, of course I could be missing something but as far as I could see it was fine.
That sucks man. Like I said I pulled the pump and ran the truck and didn’t hear any knocking. Then when I put the pump back on the sound was back, so I think that’s the culprit, but I need to pull the pan anyway to reseal it so I will check it out. Thank you.Thought mine was the pump. It would go away when turning the wheel a little. Never pulled it to ck. Knock got a lot worse a few months later after abusing it being stuck in snow drifts and the rig running for 48 hours. Between how much it burns and leaks I was low on oil.
I’d pull the lower pan and look. With that knock if it’s a rod you’ll find material in the pan. The thread insert in the pan has a lip that sits it higher then the bottom. The bearing material will be sitting there waiting for you if it’s there. Doesn’t take long to get that lower off to know for sure.
Wits' End has a tool made specifically to hold the gear during removal / replacement to prevent damage to the gear.That sucks man. Like I said I pulled the pump and ran the truck and didn’t hear any knocking. Then when I put the pump back on the sound was back, so I think that’s the culprit, but I need to pull the pan anyway to reseal it so I will check it out. Thank you.