3FE Owners Check-In (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Would valves being out of adjustment cause it to fail at idle like this? I’d rather take my time and do the valves myself since I don’t have a shop in my area that I trust my land cruiser with
get a snake cam and view the timing window on your phone while your under the truck to rotate the crank to set BTDC. That will be the best way to go around doing it efficiently. Adjusting valves should also set your idle straight assuming all other parts are in working order.
 
View attachment 2939812

Alright where would you start ignition system and o2 sensors is all fairly new. Valves probably need adjustment but I don’t have time to do that anytime soon.

My biggest issue is the egr valve, I believe it leaks a little exhaust gas by all the time. Symptoms are almost dying when coming to a stop off the highway. Rougher idle with egr installed. I take the whole valve off and install a wits ends “key chain”. Doing this make my land cruiser run way better and feels like it has more power.

I might hear a little exhaust leak but I can tell if it’s valve noise or exhaust leak noise.

My problem is with my current work schedule I only have a couple hours a week to work on it and I need to get it smogged in the next week or 2 for registration.
Your numbers should NOT be that bad. Look at mine (attached). My bet is that ur EGR isnt closing on idle which is an indication of blocked vacuum. Check the top ports off the throttle body and look for blocked/rusted lines under the intake manifold with a vacuum pump. Help-25/26 code on 3FE - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-25-26-code-on-3fe.340715/

E50839CE-BFCB-4F0C-8127-E320DA525ECF.png
 
Yeah that’s my conclusion too. My egr has failed, I’m trying to find another one now.
I would take a vacuum pump to that EGR and test it before you get a new one. It may be good to go. Because i had those same smog numbers before when my throttle body ports were clogged shut by oil fumes from the valve cover tube going into the intake. Apply vacuum to the two vent tubes on top of the throttle body, if it holds vacuum the ports are plugged up. If plugged shove a needle (held by a pair of long needle nose pliers) up thru the bottom and spray cleaner in thru the top.
 
I would take a vacuum pump to that EGR and test it before you get a new one. It may be good to go. Because i had those same smog numbers before when my throttle body ports were clogged shut by oil fumes from the valve cover tube going into the intake. Apply vacuum to the two vent tubes on top of the throttle body, if it holds vacuum the ports are plugged up. If plugged shove a needle (held by a pair of long needle nose pliers) up thru the bottom and spray cleaner in thru the top.
I’ll clean those ports up then retest, I’ll let you guys know the results
 
Clean both egr feed lines from throttle body to egr and checked they were clear with compressed air. Took it back for a retest and failed smog again. I found a used good egr from cruiserparts.net and will replace that when it comes in. If that doesn’t fix it then I’ll register it non op and wait till I have I have time to adjust the valves.

I do think my egr is the issue because the cruiser runs great without it but s***ty with it. Unless removing the egr is masking another problem I’m unaware of.
 
Clean both egr feed lines from throttle body to egr and checked they were clear with compressed air. Took it back for a retest and failed smog again. I found a used good egr from cruiserparts.net and will replace that when it comes in. If that doesn’t fix it then I’ll register it non op and wait till I have I have time to adjust the valves.

I do think my egr is the issue because the cruiser runs great without it but s***ty with it. Unless removing the egr is masking another problem I’m unaware of.
3FE repair manual FI-14 says EGR may be staying open causing a rough idle. EC-11 from the FSM goes thru the diagnosis of the EGR, modulator and VSV. Let me know if u need copies.
 
Well all the egr system tested good. But going through vacuum lines, I believe I found to that were crossed. I believed these 2 (red and blue) were switched. The blue one was going to the air filter housing but was supposed to go to the charcoal canister. I switched them and it fixed the wanted to die when coming to a sop issue. What do the mud experts think, would that have caused my failed smog test?

32A833D8-3AA4-4C7A-9F95-5868E320B160.jpeg
 
Well all the egr system tested good. But going through vacuum lines, I believe I found to that were crossed. I believed these 2 (red and blue) were switched. The blue one was going to the air filter housing but was supposed to go to the charcoal canister. I switched them and it fixed the wanted to die when coming to a sop issue. What do the mud experts think, would that have caused my failed smog test?

View attachment 2950013
I would think that a fuel vapor line designed to go to the charcoal canister going to the air intake instead would contribute to issues with emissions testing. It makes sense to me that adding fuel vapors into the intake side of the system certainly wouldn't help. Just trying to think logically, no real experience on my end. I am NOT an expert. Best of luck- It seems you should be close, as the low idle issue appears to be fixed by the swap.
Please keep us in the loop as you get it sorted out.

Cheers!
 
E23D33C1-6DAE-4EC9-BD22-8597C7EFF0CA.jpeg

Switching those vacuums lines got me through smog. Time to pull the egr again and enjoy 2 years of a smooth running 3fe. Hopefully in the next few months I’ll get to adjusting some valves and tracking down some oil leaks.
 
Better preserve that thing!
 
1991 3FE
Center diff lock switch
4” OME
Delta 4” radius arms
Cooper Discoverer STT 35x12.5
Rear bumper w/dual swing-outs (my build)
Roof rack (my build) to Attach Yakima
Man a fre ceramic tuned headers (useless)

DA675509-B4DF-4137-A40E-9F423D37E398.jpeg
c72eafff-5978-4aa8-bb80-5ea489a2723d-jpeg.2988201


C72EAFFF-5978-4AA8-BB80-5EA489A2723D.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Anybody know what a 300000km 3FE is worth. Runs great.
 
He’s looking to dump the engine out of an FJ62, replacing with 3B.
Arent there some slight differences with 80 series 3FE?
I’d think the motor might be of more interest to someone with a 2F FJ40 or FJ60 to swap in.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom