No spark (1 Viewer)

[RMR]

Ok will do. Thanks.

 

[g-man]

Ok, I have fuel at the filter and carb! But, still will not start…I guess it’s time to check spark? What’s the easiest way to do that? I have read a few threads on it but this is uncharted territory for me.

Watch some youtube videos.

Your looking for

1. one or more internally broken plug wires

2. A bad coil

3. a bad dizzy

4. fouled plugs or gapped wrong make sure the arc is going from the hooked ground electrode to the center electrode.

 

[g-man]

Just because you have fuel getting to the carb doesn't mean it's getting past the jets and passages to the throttle plates. Have you looked down the bore of the carb and worked the linkage on the back of the carb to see squirts of gas going down the venturis?

 

[RMR]

Ok, I just checked for spark and there is none. I noticed when I removed the spark plug wire there was some rust that came out…so probably time for a new set. With that said I’ll test the coil next and take a look at the distributor as well. Can’t imagine the distributor would be bad, I had it recurved by Jim C. when he rebuilt the carb a couple years ago. Will update as I make my way through this next task.

 

[OSS]

The coil is relatively cheap. I’d just replace it since it’s probably decades old anyway. That will rule out that possibility.

One thing that sometimes (though rarely) goes out is the igniter. It’s attached to the top of the coil. If that thing goes out - there will be no spark at all anywhere.

The igniter senses the minute current generated by the magnetic pickup inside the distributor and amplifies it a bit and feeds that to the coil to amplify it even more - to the spark plugs.
If the igniter burns out, nothing gets to the coil - so no sparky.

 

[RMR]

Ok let’s recap the current situation.
My 60 wouldn’t start after stopping at a store a few months ago. I noticed I was getting no fuel to the fuel filter or the carburetor. I replaced the fuel pump and now I have fuel at the filter and in the carburetor. Truck still would not start I checked the spark there was no spark. So I replaced spark plugs spark plug wires and the coil. Still will not start. After that, I tinkered a little bit more and even tried starter fluid again…the truck would not start so I decided to look around a little bit more to investigate. I noticed a slight dripping of fuel onto my garage floor from the carburetor side of the engine… thinking back to some of the issues I was having with loss of power shifting from 2nd to 3rd and almost stalling out maybe it makes sense that something was wrong with the carburetor initially. But then I think…I wasn’t getting any fuel, and then I wasn’t getting any spark and now I have a fuel leak on the carburetor side. Any ideas? It seems weird that all these things happened at the same time but maybe not…still, yours truly - I got no ride!

 

[2mbb]

When your truck is running, you don't investigate why, you just enjoy. Probably some of what you see now that you are looking is not related to your issue.

So, do you have spark now? If you pull a spark plug and ground it to the engine, do you see spark jumping the gap? I'm suggesting this test specifically because the spark plug is grounded through the engine. with starter fluid, you pretty much take fuel out of the equation and it should start and run at least until the starter fluid is consumed. Unless you have way too much fuel. When you pull the plug to check for spark, also inspect the business end of the spark plug to make sure it is dry. I would almost want to start over. After confirming you do have spark, pull all the plugs, hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine several (several) times to dry out the intake manifold and combustion chambers. then put the plugs back in, close the throttle and pump the accelerator pedal a few times, as you would with a cold start. It should start right up!

Good luck.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

x2 on the checking the spark. I am not as experienced as alot of the real gurus on this forum but did you check the fusible link at the battery, what about all the fuses in the dash? Carb is probably leaking out of the plunger boot thing, black rubber accordion looking thing. Mine did it for a while until I found it.

 

[g-man]

So you replaced the coil, plugs and plug wires, but did you check for spark again? Don't randomly replace parts. Only replace what is broken. Don't throw away stock parts because you replaced them with aftermarket...especially if they are NOT broken. OSS mentioned earlier that the igniter can fail. Also make sure the coil contacts and ground are clean. Check for spark in a low light condition can help you see the spark. Checking it in full sun is a bad idea and you prob would not see the spark. Grounding plug as mentioned above means holding the metal side of the plug against a ground point. The engine hoist hook is a good spot right near the #1 plug. With the wire attached hold the plug with a pair of pliers...against the hook and have someone crank the key. You're looking for spark in the electrode gap between the ground electrode and center electrode.

 

[g-man]

If you have spark on all plugs, make sure the firing order ...the plug wires are on the correct cylinder. #1 is at the front and 6 is at the rear. If you have a stock dizzy cover they should be numbered. should be 1-5-3-6-2-4

Make sure the choke plate is moving when the choke is pulled.

Make sure the throttle valve in the bottom of the primary venturi is moving when you depress the gas pedal or actuate the linkage.

Check the dizzy cap. Pull it off and looking at the underside of the cap, check the contacts. Make sure nothing is burned/corroded. Make sure nothing is broke inside the dizzy.

 

[RMR]

Thanks for everything guys. I’m gonna run through all of this over the weekend and report back.

 

[Godwin]

Check the fusible link.

 

[LndCrsr60]

Hello fellow mudh8ers! I have tried to research and read every thread that I can find on the forum. But I just can’t seem to find exactly what’s going on with my 60.
About 5 months ago, I noticed between 2&3 gear my 60 would start to hesitate when accelerating. However, it wouldn’t start doing this until about 15-20min worth of driving. Sure enough, the other day when I came back out of the store, the engine would turn over but wouldn’t start. I tried starter fluid and nothing. No fuel in the carb…so I got it towed home. I started researching and decided it sounds like the fuel pump was the main cause. So, I ordered a new one and put it in with no problems. Also put in a new fuel filter. Now whenever I’m pumping on the gas to get fuel nothing is happening. No fuel in the filter at all. I followed the specific instructions on how to install the fuel pump. But I am at a loss. I have blown a little bit of air through the lines to see if they’re clogged. There is plenty of fuel in the tank. I guess the thing that’s throwing me off is with starter fluid if it was the pump the engine should have started and died right. Any help and/or advice would be much appreciated yours truly - I got no ride!

Check the fusible link.

I just had the same issues. NO fuel at carb...fixed with new fuel pump. Still no start but it would turn over. Checked fuses, all good. Ended up that I had a bad ground connection at the fender just behind the battery. Cleaned an tightened and it fired right up.

 

[John McVicker]

I just had the same issues. NO fuel at carb...fixed with new fuel pump. Still no start but it would turn over. Checked fuses, all good. Ended up that I had a bad ground connection at the fender just behind the battery. Cleaned an tightened and it fired right up.

This is important, especially since you say you have no spark. Do check your grounds…and your fuses…and your fuseable link.

 

[RMR]

Hey guys, so… I ran through everything earlier this morning. Made sure the spark plug wires or going to the correct cylinders. Tested for spark again no spark. Checked fusible link (pic attached.) no noticeable frayed and/or melted wiring going into the link. Pulled the link, you’ll notice it seems a little bit burnt on the bottom could this be the problem? Found another slightly frayed wire close to the coil (pic attached.) removed and cleaned the ground behind the battery and tighten back up. Checked every other electrical wire and all fuses that I could find on the truck everything else looks good as far as I can tell. Gonna test for spark again as soon as I can get a second pair of hands

 

[OSS]

The fusible link metal spade connector has overheated in the past from high current and it’s smoking the plastic plug housing. That smoke (carbon) coats the metal to metal electrical contact between the connector, increasing resistance which creates even more heat.

I’d replace that plug entirely — even though it may not be the root problem.

The little bit of fraying on the insulation of the green wire coming off the coil to the square thingy is not a problem. That square thingy is a noise filter for the radio.

 

[g-man]

That plug is NOT the fusible link. It is the connector on the harness side of the fusible links. The fusible links are wires that run between two connectors about 3 inches apart. These "wires" are designed to burn away in the event of an overload. You should inspect the fusible links. My trucks fusible links burned up by the previous owner aka "PO". And he just ran wires from the connector you are showing to the battery. Not good. Here is a pic of fusible links:

Here is how not to do it:

 

[g-man]

So what do your fusible links look like? You may need to pull the tape of the back side of that connector and inspect the wiring that is crimped to the metal connectors that go in that green plastic plug.

 

[Godwin]

Use a multimeter to check your fusible links, not a visual examination. Unplug the fusible link and check for 12v at each terminal of the link. A fusible link could be fried but still visually appear good.

 

[RMR]

So what do your fusible links look like? You may need to pull the tape of the back side of that connector and inspect the wiring that is crimped to the metal connectors that go in that green plastic plug.

That plug is NOT the fusible link. It is the connector on the harness side of the fusible links. The fusible links are wires that run between two connectors about 3 inches apart. These "wires" are designed to burn away in the event of an overload. You should inspect the fusible links. My trucks fusible links burned up by the previous owner aka "PO". And he just ran wires from the connector you are showing to the battery. Not good. Here is a pic of fusible links:

View attachment 2937423

Here is how not to do it:

View attachment 2937431

The only connections that look like your pic that I can find look like they are for the windshield wiper motor. (Pic attached.).