- Thread starter
- #61
I have not. It looks like the coolant timing sensor goes to the harness but I dont want to dig into it like a crack head without a p.o a.
Fj80 is my home. Stranded tired broke (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Winki44
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
Can someone just call me I'm a horrible text communicator. I think a million times more progress could be made and I can even shoot you some monies if you want.
Anyone?
Probably best to have it towed to a shop for assessment. It's pretty tough to walk someone through a no start situation. Unfortunately break downs are almost always expensive. Cruisers are expensive anyways, but even more expensive if they break down. It's a 30 year old truck with multitudes of likely original components any of which might be a issue. You also might be able to call a mobile mechanic.
In post #8, you were given a link to a diagnostic tool.
This was created by someone here and he has chimed in as well.
It is a very thorough and well thought out document.
If you can follow directions and know how to use (and have access to) a multimeter, you can do this. A Harbor Freight MM is about $45 and well worth it and they work well for what you need here.
- Thread starter
- #65
Ok guys, first off let me thank you for all for helping me. You guys really know your s***.
I've traced it back to the last step in efi diagnostic, and I have 12v at pin 8 on the 12 point connector going into the ecu.
Now, my cold start injector timer sensor is still cracked and I don't know if this is a factor or if I'm back tracking. But
12v at fuse panel under hood
12v at efi relay port
12v at b+****( said pin 8 for some reason)**** at diagnosis connector
12v at pin 8 on 12 pin connector to ecu
So my ecu is bad?
I've traced it back to the last step in efi diagnostic, and I have 12v at pin 8 on the 12 point connector going into the ecu.
Now, my cold start injector timer sensor is still cracked and I don't know if this is a factor or if I'm back tracking. But
12v at fuse panel under hood
12v at efi relay port
12v at b+****( said pin 8 for some reason)**** at diagnosis connector
12v at pin 8 on 12 pin connector to ecu
So my ecu is bad?
@jonheld this will be your wheelhouse.
- Thread starter
- #67
Thank you sir
Couple of things here.
"4. Check for +12 on pin 8 (B+) on the DIAGNOSTIC connector mounted on the right side of the fire wall."
If you look at the last page of the diagnostic, you'll see a picture of the diagnostic connector with the pins numbered. B+ is pin 8.
"The CEL (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT) is illuminated by the ECU with a logic low on E6-pin 8"
If you're seeing +12 at pin 8 of ECU connector E6, then it's a logic high. A logic low would be ground, or close to it. That's what illuminates the CEL bulb.
You're seeing +12 at pin 8 of the diagnostic connector, so the EFI relay is closing when it should. Have you checked the 7.5 amp IGN fuse in the fusebox by the driver's left knee? Please check with a meter, not your eyeballs.
And for the 3rd time, have you checked for codes yet??????
And regarding the harness side of the cold start injector time switch that I mentioned earlier, it's important that the broken wires are not shorting to each other or to something else. I'm not asking you to remove the complete wiring harness, just make sure there's nothing shorting on that broken connector.
Last edited:
you can lead a horse to water but you cant make him drink,I don't get it.
