Builds Bean! The Adventure Continues (1987 FJ60) (2 Viewers)

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Correct, the
The terminal size is based off the width of the male. I know .3inches or 7.8mm is the next size up from the standard 1/4 inch. Can you get to the mate and measure it?
Correct, the size is based off the male terminal. I measured it and it was 7.8-7.9mm. I was basing the 7.9mm because that’s what I had seen on the Coolerman website.

I emailed him, so we’ll see what he says.
Thanks for the info Nic.

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Had some time this weekend and was able to install the new upper radiator hose. The previous one was nice because it was a single hose that was cut down...no need for a coupling. The issue was that it was just slightly the wrong shape on the pump end, so it was kinking pretty badly. The other issue was that my radiator opening is 1.5" and the old hose was 1.25". I was able to stretch it over the radiator opening, but it was tight and I had to cut it off any time I wanted to disconnect it.

The kink in the old hose:
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The new setup is two separate hoses - one is a long snaking hose that is 1.25" diameter. This is cut down to fit. The second hose is a 1.5" 90deg elbow (also slightly cut down). I used a nice aluminum reducer to connect the hoses together.

The 1.25" diameter hose:
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The new hose has a better curvature that shouldn't kink.
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I also had the chance this weekend to start knocking out the wiring on the passenger side of the vehicle. This truck has soooooooo much wiring! most of it is auxiliary wiring for things like the compressors (yes, the truck came with two compressors - one small ARB for the lockers and one giant ExtremeAire High Output for airing up and such). Each compressor also needs its own relay/solenoid.

Previously, there were inline fuses all over the place and relays zip tied and bolted the the fender. I am trying to clean this up a bit, so I decided to use a bank of MIDI fuses. I also used a piece of starboard plastic to make a panel for the relay, solenoid and ground bar to be bolted to. I am trying my best not to drill any holes into the fender.

The old setup:
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Here is the start of the new setup...I need to get some better pictures of the plastic panel:
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Obviously this is a work-in-progress and will get cleaner as I get further along!

I also purchased the Toyota headlight harness kit - Part Number: 81110-60P70. This is an awesome part and maybe the only reasonably priced Toyota part ever!! I think it was just under $50 when I purchased it. It comes with a full upgraded harness (relays and fuses), two headlamps with halogen bulbs, zip ties and dielectric grease. I am now able to get rid of the old "upgraded" headlight harness and install the new one.
I already have Trucklite LEDs, so I wont be using the halogens...but the price is worth it just for the quality harness!

The old harness:
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The new kit:

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I made a bracket for the relays and fuses to bolt to...I am running out of room in the engine bay, so I decided to install the bracket inside the fender, adjacent to the battery. The placement still allows the fuses to be accessed with the battery installed.

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Big night tonight for the Bean! I finished a bunch of wiring going to the passenger side battery and connected the batteries up....no sparks or fires!:rofl:

Everything seems to be working (electrically speaking) and this is a huge step in getting the truck back on the road!

Here's the final layout:
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With the air filter installed:
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This is the small plastic panel I made to house the relays...I haven't wired the triggers for the relays yet.
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My wife was also super excited that I installed the drivers seat ...and the seat heaters work 😅
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A big thanks to @Coolerman for sending me the proper terminals for the harness side of the fusible link! Great service and super fast!

The new terminals:
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Forgot to grab a picture of them terminated, but here is one of the new wires in the connector.
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I ended up unwrapping about a foot of the harness and splicing in a foot of each of these wires with fresh ones. The original wires were showing their age a bit. These wires are AVS-3 and AVS-2, which I think corresponds to about 12awg and 14awg respectively, but they looked like a slightly thicker gauge, so I sized the wires up. The red and black wires are 12awg and the larger white wire is 10awg. I spliced these to the original wires with quality heat shrink connectors.



Here is a picture of the terminal for the battery side of the fusible link...one of the previous owners cut the original wire off and soldered a new 10awg wire on...its not that great of a solder job. I'm going to run it for now, but I want to fix it. This crazy terminal is NLA, so my current plan is to buy a new fusible link and pillage the connector off of it so I can recreate this terminal/connector. This will also allow me to have a spare fusible link (which I should probably obtain before they become NLA - like the FJ62).

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Next steps -
  • Wire lockers
  • Install bumpers
  • Wire winch
  • Install sliders
  • Install air tank
  • Install lock actuators
  • Install speakers
  • Install VB-2 vapor barrier
  • Fluids/fuel
  • Install the rest of the interior
Not so bad! I hope to knock off a bunch of this next weekend!
 
One more small tidbit of potentially useful info for the FJ60 owners out there...

I ended up breaking two of my door lock rod clips while I was taking the doors apart. Unfortunately, these are NLA from Toyota. I got a tip off MUD that these clips from Amazon work as a replacement, but I bought some and they were too big. Maybe they work for the FJ62? I have no idea if the FJ60 and FJ62 have the same rod diameter. the rod diameter in my 1987 FJ60 is 3.5mm.

Here are the clips from Amazon - great price and quality, but they didn't fit.
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So, I searched for lock rod clips that fit a rod with a diameter of 3.5mm and found that Honda door rods are this size. Below are the clips that I went with. They were considerably more expensive, but fit perfectly! I ordered them off Ebay.

Honda Part Number: 72139-SR0-A01 (Violet), 72616-SM4-003 (White)

These can be ordered off of hondapartsnow.com which is basically the same site as toyotapartsdeal.com.

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Here @DougRFJ62 page 4...a ways down
 
Amazing thread. So well documented both in words and photos. Fascinating, thank you!
 
It was a big afternoon for the Bean today ... Bumpers!

For some reason, I have been dreading installing these bumpers (especially the rear). The funny thing is that the rear went on without too much trouble, but it was the front that put up a fight!

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The powder-coating on the bumpers was really thick and it was extremely hard to fit the bumpers between the frame rails. For the front, I had to use a bottle jack and 2x4s to spread the rails about an eight inch for the bumper to slide into place. Then getting the bolts through the holes was another ordeal...I basically had to thread the powder-coating. The important thing is that they are on!!

Along with the bumpers, I installed the sliders and the air-tank. Everything is hooked up and ready to rock and roll!
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Last but not least, I finished up the wiring in the engine bay - here is a picture of the finished electrical panel on the passenger side fender.
I still need to install the windshield washer bottle...

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Everything is working as it should! I even left the batteries hooked up this evening. If I get some time tomorrow, I may try to start the truck. I need to add fluids, bleed the fuel system and turn the key 🤞
 
I recruited my wife to install our new hood liner today.
I had also bought some heat/sound deadening on Amazon for cheap to put under the new hood liner. I’m hoping this dampens the noise even more and keeps the hood cooler.

Thanks @Ophir for the idea and product recommendation!

Hood Liner Part Number: 53341-90A00
Clips: 90467-09014

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So pretty!
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Other than that, I finished bolting in the rear bumper, installed the passenger seat and wired in the winch.
 
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I recruited my wife to install our new hood liner...
Timely post. I've got a new liner waiting for pickup and hope to get to that next week. The insulation I hadn't thought of but will definitely do.

I probably would have tried tracing/cutting it in place lying on my back in the engine bay though -- rather than using the old liner as a template. :bang:

So thanks also for the "work smarter, not harder" Insulation Installation for Dummies tip!
 
I probably would have tried tracing/cutting it in place lying on my back in the engine bay though -- rather than using the old liner as a template. :bang:

You and me both Joe!
Lauren went and grabbed the old liner and I asked her what she was doing with it…
Then it became obvious yet again that she is much smarter than I am :idea: .

It would have been a much more laborious task if I had done it!
 
I recruited my wife to install our new hood liner today.
I had also bought some heat/sound deadening on Amazon for cheap to put under the new hood liner. I’m hoping this dampens the noise even more and keeps the hood cooler.

Thanks @Ophir for the idea and product recommendation!

Hood Liner Part Number: 53341-90A00
Clips: 90467-09014

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So pretty!
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Other than that, I finished bolting in the rear bumper, installed the passenger seat and wired in the winch.
I might go ahead and do this. Does it require 17 clips?
 
I recruited my wife to install our new hood liner today.
I had also bought some heat/sound deadening on Amazon for cheap to put under the new hood liner. I’m hoping this dampens the noise even more and keeps the hood cooler.

Thanks @Ophir for the idea and product recommendation!

Hood Liner Part Number: 53341-90A00
Clips: 90467-09014

View attachment 2930965

View attachment 2930961

So pretty!
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View attachment 2930964

Other than that, I finished bolting in the rear bumper, installed the passenger seat and wired in the winch.

Solid looking bench vices there, esp the gray one (Athol?). Have you seen the Vice thread in the Tools forum?
 
Solid looking bench vices there, esp the gray one (Athol?). Have you seen the Vice thread in the Tools forum?

Yes, it’s an Athol. I would like to clean and rebuild it, but it is smooth and works well. The jaws are 4”, so I would like to get a set of magnetic soft jaws for it.

The other vise is kind of junky…I abuse it.

My grandfather passed away a few years ago and the Athol vise was in his barn/shop. It was going to be left behind when the house sold, but I was told I could take it. So it’s also sentimental to me.

I have not seen the vise thread - I’ll check it out!!

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Yes, it’s an Athol. I would like to clean and rebuild it, but it is smooth and works well. The jaws are 4”, so I would like to get a set of magnetic soft jaws for it.

The other vise is kind of junky…I abuse it.

My grandfather passed away a few years ago and the Athol vise was in his barn/shop. It was going to be left behind when the house sold, but I was told I could take it. So it’s also sentimental to me.

I have not seen the vise thread - I’ll check it out!!

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Good grab on that family vice, awesome piece with good story, have a similar family “heirloom” Reed vice. I’d like to find a bigger vintage one though.

Check out the vice thread, it’s another whole layer of obsession…who knew?
 
More progress today!

Ended up getting the truck started...I think it had been about 5 months since it had been started.
I changed the oil, bled the fuel line, added some coolant and turned the key! I let it run for about an hour and everything seemed to run great. I was a little worried because the amount of coolant that I added seemed like less than I had taken out. But I used my radiator funnel and burped the system really well. I had good heat in the cab and could feel the thermostat cycling at around 185F. The truck never got over 193F while just idling in the driveway. It should be good to go!

Here are a few pictures of the finished engine bay - I think I am completely done in there! [Except for charging the AC - that will happen late spring].

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No leaks so far...that's always a nice treat! I drove the truck around the driveway and the steering felt good (I think). The box isn't leaking yet, so maybe I rebuilt it correctly? I did notice the brakes need to be bled. I should probably refill the system with fresh fluid at some point.
It was an exciting day!

To Do List:
- Install grill & headlight bezels
- Install Mud Flaps - I think I am going to use some Amazon Specials for now and referb the originals some day?
- Install wipers and mirrors
- Install door vapor barriers and door cards
- Install the rest of the rear interior
- Fix some paint chips
- Get windshield sealed (this will happen after the rest of the truck is done)

-- Go Camping in the Olympics!
 

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