What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (38 Viewers)

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PM me Please for the TOP SECERT SKUNK WORKS " ACTIVE DUTY CALL-SIGN DISCOUNT CODE " :cool:







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Moved my stock "F" alt to passenger side with a factory mount, belt did not line up when mounted as stock, so I made some spacers which allowed me to avoid buying a diff alt. Belt is good


Then moved my Saginaw pump to where alt was.

Am in process of going from the Weber that was installed to the original carb, was able to score a factory air cleaner from rkymtnflyfisher a while ago. Finally getting to installing it.

Old mount I fabbed when I was much younger was in the way of the factory air cleaner. I made it long ago when I was much younger and did not know better, felt good chucking into the scrap pile.

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Just checked the two loose roll bars I have. One I remember I took out of an 80 FJ40 in a wrecking year. Can't remember where I picked up the other one or when. It's a 77 or early 78 pre three point seat belts. I also have a 73 FST that the rear jump seats were taken out to install a custom roll bar. The bolt for the lap belts were on the front of the wheel well. Those are 7/16 20 with a 5/8" head on the nut. The 80 roll bar has a 7/16 20 bolt with a 14mm head on the seat belt anchor point. The others including the one added thru the main bar are all Metric. Interesting is the other also has a 7/16 20 welded nut where a seat belt would anchor. This is an original paint non rusted roll bar. It does not have the bracket welded on the bottom. Find that interesting. 1/76 US required three point seat belts on the front seat. But it wasn't until 2/78 seat belts moved to the roll bar.
Good info! I also have the 7/16-20 nut welded at the bar junction on the rollbar, but the bolt that was in it looked like a hardware store variety with leftover red-tinted anodizing of some type. I probably won't be able to find anything close to factory to replace those 2 with. My 78 is a 10/77 model so it is still the older rollbar without the lower brackets for the shoulder harness front seat belts. I've driven with that rollbar in all week now and I have to say I don't really like how much it has broken up my field of view when I am checking my blind spots or looking behind me. It's nothing too major, just something to get used to.
 
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Pretty sure the bank counter machine would of said something.


oh ? :D



it can be interpreted ...........:idea:

That was Referring to the Actual Mileage of the Vehicle you Sold Today
?



Sorry , :confused:

i have never seen anyone really boast how much they sold a Toyota for here on MUD before ?


my bad ...
 
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oh ? :D



it can be interpreted ...........:idea:

That was Referring to the Actual Mileage of the Vehicle you Sold Today
?



Sorry , :confused:

i have never seen anyone really post how much they sold a Toyota for here on MUD before ?


my bad ...
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Tech related,


I've been driving mine all week. I have noticed it idles rough first thing in the morning when it's cold, goes away when it warms up.


No real issues in my opinion, I guess I'll keep on trucking.

I was trying to drive it up to the ski hill tomorrow but I have to pick another kid up on the way, without the rear seat in it I guess we'll be taking the ol' diesel dually.

Maybe next week, supposed to be some snow in the forecast also.
 
This weekend I was finally able to get my factory rollbar back into the FJ40 for the first time in 11 years. It went through some rehab and paint; it's still got some gnarly battle scars on it, but that could describe my whole ride :) .

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I ran into something that I didn't know about the rollbar bolts, so I got on the forum to try to find the answer. Surprisingly I found about 4 threads asking the question, but without a real clear answer, so I want to drop some rollbar bolt 101 stuff right here that I figured out. So, each downpost has 4 bolt holes. 3 of them are standard fare, M10-1.25 bolts, original part number 91651-61025, 12 needed. These are marked with a 6 on the head (maybe 9). They are available to order from Toyota, but I ordered some in December that still haven't shown up, so I cleaned up the original ones.

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Now the fun part. Each downpost has 1 bigger bolt. It is located at the inner-most (towards center of tub) front-most (towards the engine) bolt hole. This bolt is SAE 7/16-20, but, with a 14mm wrench head on it. Luckily I still had all 4 of these unicorns. The original part number 90101-11465 is showing as discontinued. The head is stamped TK 43. The old MicorFiche scans incorrectly state that 2 are needed, it needs 4. It dawned on me later that these are the 4 bolts used to secure the rear seatbelts, so it was the US market safety requirement, just like with the shoulder harness belts up front.

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And lastly, my rollbar pads cleaned up really nice, so they deserved OEM Toyota screws to put them back on, part number 93560-15014. I hope this info helps someone out in the future. 🍻

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Not 100% certain but I think your main hoop is facing the wrong direction, pretty sure the pads should be facing the rear passengers.🤷‍♀️
 
Moved my stock "F" alt to passenger side with a factory mount, belt did not line up when mounted as stock, so I made some spacers which allowed me to avoid buying a diff alt. Belt is good


Then moved my Saginaw pump to where alt was.

Am in process of going from the Weber that was installed to the original carb, was able to score a factory air cleaner from rkymtnflyfisher a while ago. Finally getting to installing it.

Old mount I fabbed when I was much younger was in the way of the factory air cleaner. I made it long ago when I was much younger and did not know better, felt good chucking into the scrap pile.

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i can help here i think




- u already are set up for success with your " Abraham Lincoln DOUBLE Groove TOP HAT style Pulley


- Your Alternator Drive Belt now is a Optional Power steering equipped land cruiser 2F FJ40 / FJ60 8/78- 9/87 Factory Option VANE Pump equipped set up ....

- Because you do not have a smog pump the Inner water pump pulley groove you simply abandon all together entirely

- its hard to see well but i assume u have a 2 groove crank pully right ?

- same , outer groove belt routing

- no inner groove use

- now , really set up sweet

- all belts pulleys grooves aligned up as they should be

EXCELLENT WORK hands down !

:)
 
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12262-66021
Valve cover hose ih8mud
Seems like the same thing. Might be cheaper going through Toyota or ebay. OP on thread said it needed to be trimmed and this was to fit it onto a 1f engine valve cover. Might not need any "trimming" if you need to fit it to a 2f cover. If it fit the 1f it should fit the 2f.
 
12262-66021
Valve cover hose ih8mud
Seems like the same thing. Might be cheaper going through Toyota or ebay. OP on thread said it needed to be trimmed and this was to fit it onto a 1f engine valve cover. Might not need any "trimming" if you need to fit it to a 2f cover. If it fit the 1f it should fit the 2f.



that Clown that started that breather hose thread has a habit of screwing with random folks VERY HARD for no reason on a regular bases :confused:

perhaps , the below will make more sense ?


i am very familiar with the entire 2F valve cover to Air cleaner box breather hose topic , the 90910-06036 everyone now is needing ..
.
1/75-9/87 FJ40 / FJ55 / FJ60 has been NLA / Disc. for longer then i can remember , i strikes me as extremely ODD Toyota would AX such a wide range application

needed part so young in its life cycle ?


but they have done stranger things then this for sure , like stopped Importing the FJ Cruiser back in 2014 here in the USA-Spec. but continue spit them out from plant

A-11 for most of the globe ?



i was able to SKUNK-WORKS up a same in kind TOYOTA Genuine Part in JAPAN using my OEM Paper Print Media parts substitution and interchange chart and graph

system
guide book i have tucked away safe .........


same exact darn part i am Very Certain .....

and made in JAPAN 100%

no china or outside Japan OEM parts maker here ! :cool:


also way way cooler yellow zinc gold plated HIGH strength and wide body tension positive correct grip snug as a bug Spring Clamps very period correct



FIT FORM and FUNCTION always rule my JIS day ........









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I can attest that OEM part #12262-66021 did not work in my application because the inlet or the valve cover is closer to the firewall than the stock valve cover. Hence the hose was to short. Matt's solution was a good fit for what I needed.
 
Installed a new air breather hose courtesy of Toyota Matt. The issue was connecting a 1975-1978 OEM F2 Aluminum valve cover breather to the original air cleaner assembly. Matt came through.

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Is that new hose split? Looks like two 90910-05101 hoses put together? Pretty nifty idea.

Installed the 90910-05101 (1/75 - 7/80) VC to Air Cleaner hose my '77 not too long ago.
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I wonder if you could use the 90910-05101 as a substitute for the NLA 90910-06036 hose? Someone more knowledgeable than me might know.


My 40; I've just been driving it, putting gas in it, driving it, putting gas in it, etc.......you know. :hillbilly:
 
ToyotaMatt,

I appreciate the response but an unsure what you mean by "unnecessary mis-alignment of your current 2 belts set up in the pulley faces"

Both belts , alt and power steering pulleys are aligned and run true.

Pic's may make it difficult to see this?


I am using a "F" alt on the 2F alt mount.

The 2F passenger side alt mount with the "F" alt mounted as a factory did not align the wider pulley on my "F" alt to the wide pulley on the crank and waterpump.

With the alt mounted and located to the inner front "ear" of the 2F mount ,the wide groove pulley perfectly aligned to the inner large belt sized pulley on the crank, water pump and alternator. Spacers do not locate the alt.

This allowed me to use the small groove pulleys on the crank and water pump and power steering pump.

Its all working as it should with no issues.

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