FJ62 - New Radiator Fittings (1 Viewer)

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Swapped out the radiator in my 88 FJ62 for an aluminum replacement from cruiser corps.
Got it in, it’s running beautifully… But, I ran into 2 snags.

It was supposed to be plug and play, but it seems like they forgot to send me some fittings.

The original lower line elbow fitting was too long, and would not tighten down to the elbow (the original fitting tightens completely flush to the original radiator)… not a problem, I was able to cleanly cut a few mils of threading off to correct the problem.

Also, the new radiator comes with (or was supposed to come with) a threaded nipple fitting for the overflow hose… it did not come with the new radiator.

Any one happen else run into this; if so, do you happen to know what size threaded nipple needs to be used?

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…I’m guessing a NPT brass 3/8, 7/16, or 1/2”

Just curious if anyone has run into this and might know off the top of their head
 
I just did this on my 89 fj62 with a mishimoto radiator last month and thought the same thing about the elbow fitting being too long to fit the new radiator and not snug down. Then I realized that is a lock nut that is on the threads and pulled it further down the threads and it tightened down beautifully. No leaks after 150 miles or so. I had considered cutting the threads as well before I realized this. Can’t answer the other part of the question.
 
I just did this on my 89 fj62 with a mishimoto radiator last month and thought the same thing about the elbow fitting being too long to fit the new radiator and not snug down. Then I realized that is a lock nut that is on the threads and pulled it further down the threads and it tightened down beautifully. No leaks after 150 miles or so. I had considered cutting the threads as well before I realized this. Can’t answer the other part of the question.
I’m am so frustrated - 1/8 NPT:

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Toyota doesn't use NPT they us BSPT (british standard pipe thread). the line coming out the the radiator at the bottom is:

M14x1.5mm to Ø9/16-18 JIC Male fitting for transmission cooler line leaving radiator.

Thanks - So I actually found a mishimoto filler assembly on Amazon, and I’m pretty sure the nipple fitting is the size I need. It said “with screw in fitting”… if not, I will order the one you sent.

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Swapped out the radiator in my 88 FJ62 for an aluminum replacement from cruiser corps.
Got it in, it’s running beautifully… But, I ran into 2 snags.

It was supposed to be plug and play, but it seems like they forgot to send me some fittings.

The original lower line elbow fitting was too long, and would not tighten down to the elbow (the original fitting tightens completely flush to the original radiator)… not a problem, I was able to cleanly cut a few mils of threading off to correct the problem.

Also, the new radiator comes with (or was supposed to come with) a threaded nipple fitting for the overflow hose… it did not come with the new radiator.

Any one happen else run into this; if so, do you happen to know what size threaded nipple needs to be used?

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Whats that lower line for on the bottom of the radiator, mine has that but I just leave it exposed
 
Whats that lower line for on the bottom of the radiator, mine has that but I just leave it exposed
The bottom of the stock 62 radiator is a transmission cooler. If you have a 60 and using a 62 radiator then that would explain why yours is exposed.
 
Long story short - mishimoto fitting came in, it was 1.0 thread… didn’t fit.

5 minute fix using a tap to the fitting hole in the radiator neck - screwed right in.

Note: don’t forget to back tape the neck while running a tap.
 
Hi, I am doing my radiator also as we speak .

I got mine from cruiserparts.net the rad needs (my understanding is there is NO more OEM fit rad for the automatic but only for manual shift ) to install with the auxiliary transmission oil cooler and they sold me a big one with fan made by speedmaster.

I ended up mount the oil cooler under the truck before the rear axle
 
Hi, I am doing my radiator also as we speak .

I got mine from cruiserparts.net the rad needs (my understanding is there is NO more OEM fit rad for the automatic but only for manual shift ) to install with the auxiliary transmission oil cooler and they sold me a big one with fan made by speedmaster.

I ended up mount the oil cooler under the truck before the rear axle
Unsure - I got mine from Cruiser Corps last year… they ran out of radiators in recent months, which is why I had trouble with the fittings.

My transcooler is attached to the front of my AC condenser. New fan should be make cooling system pretty bulletproof - but unsure why you would have to mount your cooler under the truck?
 
Unsure - I got mine from Cruiser Corps last year… they ran out of radiators in recent months, which is why I had trouble with the fittings.

My transcooler is attached to the front of my AC condenser. New fan should be make cooling system pretty bulletproof - but unsure why you would have to mount your cooler under the truck?
I got mine from cruiserparts (another company).

The oil cooler fan they sold me in bundle was the big boy made by speedmaster.

So I assumed you got a different type of cooler from your supplier.
 
@NOLACC I'm running into the same issue with the lower elbow connection for the transmission cooler lines. do you remember how much of the threads you cut off? Does it really even matter as long as it screws down snug onto the O-Ring?
 
i didn't cut any threads off. if you look at that second pic from OP that shows the elbow, there is that nut that looks like it is fixed but it will loosen and minimize the depth that the elbow screw into the radiator. hope that makes sense. dh
 
i didn't cut any threads off. if you look at that second pic from OP that shows the elbow, there is that nut that looks like it is fixed but it will loosen and minimize the depth that the elbow screw into the radiator. hope that makes sense. dh
makes sense, but that nut only screws down a little bit. Not enough to seal tight with the new radiator.
 
Pretty sure it comes all the way off
 
@NOLACC I'm running into the same issue with the lower elbow connection for the transmission cooler lines. do you remember how much of the threads you cut off? Does it really even matter as long as it screws down snug onto the O-Ring?

I think I cut about 2 to 4 threads off, I can't remember exactly (I might've had to cut it twice, just to be cautious not to cut too much off the first time) - start with maybe two or 3 threads. You can always cut or grind more off if needed, lol but you can't add them back. So start off with just a few, cut more as needed.

You want the threads to screw all the way down to the o-ring, but you also want the elbow nut to tighten all the way down to the radiator... In my opinion, it seemed like the only way to get a proper seal.
 
i didn't cut any threads off. if you look at that second pic from OP that shows the elbow, there is that nut that looks like it is fixed but it will loosen and minimize the depth that the elbow screw into the radiator. hope that makes sense. dh
Mine was so caked up with grime, I was scared of stripping it... I soaked it in cleaner, etc. It would not budge, it almost felt like it was fused together. Luckily the nut was tightened almost all the way to the top (or the 90) of the elbow.

I guess 34 years of intense heat and dirt locked it up.

makes sense, but that nut only screws down a little bit. Not enough to seal tight with the new radiator.

If you can get your elbow nut to break free without stripping, lowering the nut to make the seal is definitely the preferable method - what I did was sort of a plan B, and I needed the truck running ASAP...
 
thanks @NOLACC .

Was ready to mount it back in today and connect it up, but ran into a snag. Seems like you can't properly attach he mounting brackets because the threading for the fan shroud bolts is in the way. @NOLACC did you run into this with yours?

My Dremel pooped out on my today, so started to drill a hole in the bracket, but that's not giong to work. Will need the dremel to cut those brass thread shorter.

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