1hd-t downpipe, where to get one stateside? (1 Viewer)

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I'll shoot you a pm to get a realistic cost and such. I'm only an hour and a half drive away.
I ask about a day because it's my daily and if it's down for very long it raises cost due to time and inconvenience if that makes sense. A full kit I can install myself in a day vs having my rig down for fab work.
Right on just let me know
 
The point is, cost isn't my concern. Availability is.

And my lightnings exhaust was a tick over 3k.
Precisely why I went the Legendex route. It's full 3" SS, and also hi-temp coated tip to tail. Fit was great. Comes with every piece of hardware and gaskets, except the exhaust hangers and the four nuts and gasket at the dump flange.
My advice would be to go ahead and buy the 3x exhaust hangers ahead of time. The studs will snap. My truck has 210k KM's, and out of 12 nuts, 10 of them snapped clean. I bought them locally from Toyota (17567-17010 qty:3 - they don't come with nuts, but I found enough in my nut & bolt bucket). I cut my old exhaust off with a sawzall, and had the whole job done in four hours using my buddy's lift.

Ben@superiorengineering.com.au if you want to get a quote.
 
Always looking for input, any suggestions on how? Different location for the v-band?

Ok, firstly photos can be decieving. It looks like you have two 90⁰ bends after the turbo to get past the firewall?

When I've done exhaust on diesel 80/105, I've used about a 70⁰ bend for the first two bends out of the turbo, and kept the second bend as close to the fire wall as possible (¾" clearance)

I used 4" bends and pipe for the dump pipe, and still managed about 70⁰ bends.

With 3", you'd have a little more room to flatten out the bends more.

For gas and fluid flow, a 45⁰ bend or less creates almost no flow disruption.
You want gas to get away from the turbo as freely as possible. As hot gas travels through the exhaust, it cools and condenses slightly so the first few feet are the most important

Apart from the first two bends to get past the fire wall, I used nothing greater than 45⁰ bend anywhere from front to back.

There's many ways to skin a cat though
 
Precisely why I went the Legendex route. It's full 3" SS, and also hi-temp coated tip to tail. Fit was great. Comes with every piece of hardware and gaskets, except the exhaust hangers and the four nuts and gasket at the dump flange.
My advice would be to go ahead and buy the 3x exhaust hangers ahead of time. The studs will snap. My truck has 210k KM's, and out of 12 nuts, 10 of them snapped clean. I bought them locally from Toyota (17567-17010 qty:3 - they don't come with nuts, but I found enough in my nut & bolt bucket). I cut my old exhaust off with a sawzall, and had the whole job done in four hours using my buddy's lift.

Ben@superiorengineering.com.au if you want to get a quote.

I'm going to have to crawl under my cruiser when I get it back to visualize this better.

I looked up the part numbers and that makes more sense now as why they broke. That's a different style hanger than I'm used to.

This is the exhaust on my lightning. The metal hoops are the hangers with similar hoops on the truck and a rubber hanger between them. So nothing to unbolt.

Screenshot_20210924-135440_Instagram.jpg
 
Ok, firstly photos can be decieving. It looks like you have two 90⁰ bends after the turbo to get past the firewall?

When I've done exhaust on diesel 80/105, I've used about a 70⁰ bend for the first two bends out of the turbo, and kept the second bend as close to the fire wall as possible (¾" clearance)

I used 4" bends and pipe for the dump pipe, and still managed about 70⁰ bends.

With 3", you'd have a little more room to flatten out the bends more.

For gas and fluid flow, a 45⁰ bend or less creates almost no flow disruption.
You want gas to get away from the turbo as freely as possible. As hot gas travels through the exhaust, it cools and condenses slightly so the first few feet are the most important

Apart from the first two bends to get past the fire wall, I used nothing greater than 45⁰ bend anywhere from front to back.

There's many ways to skin a cat though
PM’d for guidance
 
There's many ways to skin a cat though

Here's how I skun my cat.

IMG_20170430_124031.jpg


IMG_20170430_124119.jpg


IMG_20170430_124037.jpg


All mounted on original hangers-on transfer back, inside the frame, long flex to prevent clanging on shut down..
4" down pipe, hard mounted to transfer and bell housing (but with some allowance for flex in the brackets)
Two large mufflers, coz I don't want it to sound like a school bus with a busted manifold
All bends 45⁰ or less.

I had some tight clearances to the frame ½-⅜", and no banging, no vibration.

I spent a much on parts a it would have cost for an of the shelf system, but I got this tucked high and tight so none of it was below the frame rails anywhere except right at the back.
 
Here's how I skun my cat.
All mounted on original hangers-on transfer back, inside the frame, long flex to prevent clanging on shut down..
4" down pipe, hard mounted to transfer and bell housing (but with some allowance for flex in the brackets)
Two large mufflers, coz I don't want it to sound like a school bus with a busted manifold
All bends 45⁰ or less.

I had some tight clearances to the frame ½-⅜", and no banging, no vibration.

I spent a much on parts a it would have cost for an of the shelf system, but I got this tucked high and tight so none of it was below the frame rails anywhere except right at the back.

Wow! That is an absolute thing of beauty! Good work, sir!
 
View attachment 2907723
had to find a picture before the lava Wrap, this is how i skinned mine.
Looks really good! What are the odds you'd want to build one and ship one of these to colorado? I'm in a bit of a pinch right now. I'm in the process of replacing my turbo but my current turbo that the PO installed isn't a ct26 and it has a 3 bolt exhaust flange. My new turbo is a ct26 housing so now I need a factory style 4 bolt dump. I'm interested in just the dump/down pipe you have pictured here due to shipping costs for the whole exhaust.
 
Looks really good! What are the odds you'd want to build one and ship one of these to colorado? I'm in a bit of a pinch right now. I'm in the process of replacing my turbo but my current turbo that the PO installed isn't a ct26 and it has a 3 bolt exhaust flange. My new turbo is a ct26 housing so now I need a factory style 4 bolt dump. I'm interested in just the dump/down pipe you have pictured here due to shipping costs for the whole exhaust.
I’ll get you set up, pm me
 

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