2017 LC200- want to learn more / be proactive (1 Viewer)

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Nov 2, 2021
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Location
Charleston, sC
I bought a 2017 200 a couple months ago and have these questions. Preferably, would like to read up on the below but having a hard time weeding through the forum search and random threads. I'd like to be proactive on the following:

  1. Transmission re-flash. How do i know without going to the dealer if I have the latest firmware that corrected the issues. I read there was a re-flash in 2016, would my 2017 already have that? What's the best thread to read-up on it?
  2. Radiator - have confirmed that i have the older style and will watch it. From what i have read, failures typically start at 60-120k with a crack at the factory label. Anything else?
  3. Valley coolant leak. Was this corrected at a certain year? How do I find out if my 2017 is susceptible? Seems like there are some threads on it, but is there a technical info thread?
  4. KDSS - cover with marine grease. Anything else?
  5. Anything else that pops up more common on the 2017+ or 200 in general?
Thanks for any input or links, I figure the members know the threads better than the general search, hopefully. I hate to read through a ton of useless stuff and get nothing out of it.

Thanks all!
 
As a fellow ‘17 owner, I can help with a couple things.

The transmission reflash fixed up my 8 speed perfectly, so yours did not necessarily come with that from the factory. If it was done at a dealer, it will show up in the service records. Other than that, if you have the really rough 1-2 and 2-1 shift, you’ll need to ask the dealer about which firmware version is installed and get the update.


Yup, you have the radiator that will need replacement some day. Just eyeball it prior to 100K, then consider replacing proactively.

There are threads on the valley leak, but it’s rare and not something to worry about.

Yup, grease the KDSS valves early and often. I also spray Fluid Film on that, plus other connections in the system.

Just keep up with preventative maintenance and don’t let anyone try to touch your cabin filter.

And, as a relevant aside, you’ll probably want to develop and refine Mud search skills. It can be much faster than waiting for someone else and you’ll pick up lots of nuggets of valuable info among the “useless stuff” ;)
 
As a fellow ‘17 owner, I can help with a couple things.

The transmission reflash fixed up my 8 speed perfectly, so yours did not necessarily come with that from the factory. If it was done at a dealer, it will show up in the service records. Other than that, if you have the really rough 1-2 and 2-1 shift, you’ll need to ask the dealer about which firmware version is installed and get the update.


Yup, you have the radiator that will need replacement some day. Just eyeball it prior to 100K, then consider replacing proactively.

There are threads on the valley leak, but it’s rare and not something to worry about.

Yup, grease the KDSS valves early and often. I also spray Fluid Film on that, plus other connections in the system.

Just keep up with preventative maintenance and don’t let anyone try to touch your cabin filter.

And, as a relevant aside, you’ll probably want to develop and refine Mud search skills. It can be much faster than waiting for someone else and you’ll pick up lots of nuggets of valuable info among the “useless stuff” ;)

Thanks! Great info. I do all my own maintenance, so dealer trips will only be when required.

My search skills must be horrible, will work on them.
 
In my 2017 i have lost my sanity trying to see if i have a harsh 1-2 shift. I dont think i do from reading others its a very obvious kick.

When i hassled some others on it they, like sandroad said, experienced no drawbacks from the flash. I may do it anyway just to be sure but im still playing around. Flushing my trans made it so smooth i dont know what im even looking for anymore.
At least i have OBD fusion now to see what gear im in, will play more soon.
 
In my 2017 i have lost my sanity trying to see if i have a harsh 1-2 shift. I dont think i do from reading others its a very obvious kick.

When i hassled some others on it they, like sandroad said, experienced no drawbacks from the flash. I may do it anyway just to be sure but im still playing around. Flushing my trans made it so smooth i dont know what im even looking for anymore.
At least i have OBD fusion now to see what gear im in, will play more soon.

I definitely feel some funny business going on 1-2, 2-3. Mainly high revs and delayed take off / dramatic downshift is what I notice. Not sure if that's the symptom or not, but I definitely notice a lack of smooth in the low gears. One of these days when I'm at the dealer buying oil and filters I might ask about it. Feel like it would just be a frustrating visit if I go there with that being my only goal. Really don't like dealing with them at all.
 
I definitely feel some funny business going on 1-2, 2-3. Mainly high revs and delayed take off / dramatic downshift is what I notice. Not sure if that's the symptom or not, but I definitely notice a lack of smooth in the low gears. One of these days when I'm at the dealer buying oil and filters I might ask about it. Feel like it would just be a frustrating visit if I go there with that being my only goal. Really don't like dealing with them at all.

Full Flush ATF and grease all driveline and check again. Theres a lot of driveline play in this platform for some reason. Probably articulation.
 
Full Flush ATF and grease all driveline and check again. Theres a lot of driveline play in this platform for some reason. Probably articulation.

You think full flush at 32k? It was driven by an old man/lady before I got it with 29k on it. I greased the driveline a couple weeks ago.
 
You think full flush at 32k? It was driven by an old man/lady before I got it with 29k on it. I greased the driveline a couple weeks ago.

Nah, i would say 60k and 120 is where its at. I would DEF grease the driveline though. Often neglected.

Read up on it on MUD but basically only the splines are delicate.
I gave mine 20 pumps and didnt budge but i used AHC to move the grease around in between.

Are you sure its the shift points? The driveline kick feels exactly like a harsh shift could when its let off and back on.
 
Nah, i would say 60k and 120 is where its at. I would DEF grease the driveline though. Often neglected.

Read up on it on MUD but basically only the splines are delicate.
I gave mine 20 pumps and didnt budge but i used AHC to move the grease around in between.

Are you sure its the shift points? The driveline kick feels exactly like a harsh shift could when its let off and back on.

Positive it's not the driveline and it is greased properly, very familiar with the slip yoke, my 4Runner is the same. It takes quite a bit of grease to get any movement, the factory basically just smears grease on the splines. If you open it up you can see why greasing through the zerk is weird and almost impossible not to hyrolock if not careful.

I'm still getting used to the 8 speed, so maybe it's normal, but definitely on the low shift points, almost like it gets confused if i brake and then hit the gas, like in stop and go traffic or rolling stops. I'll give it some time before looking into the reflash, unless I find myself at the dealer for another reason.
 
Positive it's not the driveline and it is greased properly, very familiar with the slip yoke, my 4Runner is the same. It takes quite a bit of grease to get any movement, the factory basically just smears grease on the splines. If you open it up you can see why greasing through the zerk is weird and almost impossible not to hyrolock if not careful.

I'm still getting used to the 8 speed, so maybe it's normal, but definitely on the low shift points, almost like it gets confused if i brake and then hit the gas, like in stop and go traffic or rolling stops. I'll give it some time before looking into the reflash, unless I find myself at the dealer for another reason.

Ima be honest with you, the 8 speed sucks ass.
Getting a GX loaner with the 6 is like driving a sports car compared to how slow and unresponsive the 8 speed is in my LX.

Its almost gotten me killed on one of our Texas on ramps. Just sitting there thinking of what ****ing gear to engage.
I put it in S5 or S6 now until im on the highway.
 
I bought a 2017 200 a couple months ago and have these questions. Preferably, would like to read up on the below but having a hard time weeding through the forum search and random threads. I'd like to be proactive on the following:

  1. Transmission re-flash. How do i know without going to the dealer if I have the latest firmware that corrected the issues. I read there was a re-flash in 2016, would my 2017 already have that? What's the best thread to read-up on it?
  2. Radiator - have confirmed that i have the older style and will watch it. From what i have read, failures typically start at 60-120k with a crack at the factory label. Anything else?
  3. Valley coolant leak. Was this corrected at a certain year? How do I find out if my 2017 is susceptible? Seems like there are some threads on it, but is there a technical info thread?
  4. KDSS - cover with marine grease. Anything else?
  5. Anything else that pops up more common on the 2017+ or 200 in general?
Thanks for any input or links, I figure the members know the threads better than the general search, hopefully. I hate to read through a ton of useless stuff and get nothing out of it.

Thanks all!

I'll offer my take:

1) Take it to the dealer to evaluate for a flash - if you feel there's an issue. If it feels great, than it is great. Part of it is just learning the car as the flash it ultimately a tuning optimization. It very well could be the original tune is firmer and potentially more durable to internal clutches and mechanisms longer term, but owners prefer a more moderated transition, aka slipping internal clutches more. Modern transmissions with their ever increasing gears - gear ratios are internally achieved sometimes via multiple transitions. Meaning it's a combination of shifts between sets of ring gears to produce a single ratio. The lower gear transitions especially can be felt more harshly as even small forces get multiplied greatly to the output shaft which can be felt more.

2) Consider it a maintenance item with the water pump. Alternatively, the design flaw isn't the material but the geometry that creates a stress riser. If I know anything about composites used in aircraft, this can be addressed proactively by adding material to create a filet. That will outright fix the stress riser vulnerability, and never give it a chance to develop into a leak. There's radiator specific adhesives on the market that can be applied.

3) A 2017 has given Toyota 9 years of potential for product improvement. Hopefully they've addressed this in some way, either process, design, or in manufacturing. Not worth worrying about. Even for my '09. It can happen, but it's still rare in my view.

4) Yup!

5) Enjoy the car! One of the most highly engineering models on the market. Yours with almost 10yrs of product improvement behind it!
 
Thanks! Great info. I do all my own maintenance, so dealer trips will only be when required.

My search skills must be horrible, will work on them.


Use google to search. format queries as such "site:ih8mud.com blah blah" without the quotes. See link above for example.

Google does a better job of searching the forum, and also a keen observer will notice that the google results show the date the thread was started as well as which forum it is in.
 
For the KDSS, here is what I found (please correct me if I'm wrong):

  1. Park on level surface
  2. Unscrew KDSS allen bolts 2-3 turns
  3. Spray KDSS unit with fluidfilm or LPS3
  4. Screw KDSS allen bolts in to 14 NM

Planning to do this to me 17' LC this week
 
For the KDSS, here is what I found (please correct me if I'm wrong):

  1. Park on level surface
  2. Unscrew KDSS allen bolts 2-3 turns
  3. Spray KDSS unit with fluidfilm or LPS3
  4. Screw KDSS allen bolts in to 14 NM

Planning to do this to me 17' LC this week

thanks! I sprayed the whole assembly with fluid film,, but didn't loosen the allen screws. Next time I'm under there going to put the marine grease all over everything. Do you think loosening the screws really necessary? Id rather spray some pb blaster or kroil on them before coating. Guess I need to read up on it.
 
Corrosion can start to form if water gets into the first few threads, then you have rust between the threads of the screw and the body, causing the shutter valve screws to stick. That's why backing them out a couple of turns (NEVER more than 3 turns) and putting some rust preventative - marine grease, LPS3, anti-seize, whatever - is helpful. Rust to the body of the valve block is annoying, but the real issue is corrosion preventing the shutter valve screws from moving when you want them to (during suspension work).
 
I bought a 2017 200 a couple months ago and have these questions. Preferably, would like to read up on the below but having a hard time weeding through the forum search and random threads. I'd like to be proactive on the following:

  1. Transmission re-flash. How do i know without going to the dealer if I have the latest firmware that corrected the issues. I read there was a re-flash in 2016, would my 2017 already have that? What's the best thread to read-up on it?
  2. Radiator - have confirmed that i have the older style and will watch it. From what i have read, failures typically start at 60-120k with a crack at the factory label. Anything else?
  3. Valley coolant leak. Was this corrected at a certain year? How do I find out if my 2017 is susceptible? Seems like there are some threads on it, but is there a technical info thread?
  4. KDSS - cover with marine grease. Anything else?
  5. Anything else that pops up more common on the 2017+ or 200 in general?
Thanks for any input or links, I figure the members know the threads better than the general search, hopefully. I hate to read through a ton of useless stuff and get nothing out of it.

Thanks all!
I'd add working your 4hi/lo and CDL regularly. A lot of these vehicles don't ever have these exercised so they may stick when actually needed. Especially true for vehicles that have had use as a family hauler and never been used offroad (the vast majority of 200 series).

In general, start here and read every link: 200-series FAQ for Modifications, Repairs and Build Threads. Great place for new users to start - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-faq-for-modifications-repairs-and-build-threads-great-place-for-new-users-to-start.908224/post-10186661
 
Corrosion can start to form if water gets into the first few threads, then you have rust between the threads of the screw and the body, causing the shutter valve screws to stick. That's why backing them out a couple of turns (NEVER more than 3 turns) and putting some rust preventative - marine grease, LPS3, anti-seize, whatever - is helpful. Rust to the body of the valve block is annoying, but the real issue is corrosion preventing the shutter valve screws from moving when you want them to (during suspension work).
@jivewalker follow this advice and logic.
 
Corrosion can start to form if water gets into the first few threads, then you have rust between the threads of the screw and the body, causing the shutter valve screws to stick. That's why backing them out a couple of turns (NEVER more than 3 turns) and putting some rust preventative - marine grease, LPS3, anti-seize, whatever - is helpful. Rust to the body of the valve block is annoying, but the real issue is corrosion preventing the shutter valve screws from moving when you want them to (during suspension work).

Thanks. On the link below, which letters are the valves you are opening less than 3 turns and lubing? Is it C,D,E,F or just E,F? Or is it all of them including bleeders and fills? Thanks!

 
Thanks. On the link below, which letters are the valves you are opening less than 3 turns and lubing? Is it C,D,E,F or just E,F? Or is it all of them including bleeders and fills? Thanks!

It's just E and F on that link. Nifty website.

Piggybacking off this thread for a high mileage 200 series (100k miles), to baseline I'm planning to do:

  • KDSS rust prevention
  • Engine coolant flush (probably at dealership)
  • Transmission fluid flush (probably at dealership)
  • Replace diff fluid
  • Replace transfer case fluid
  • Replace engine oil + filter
  • Replace power steering fluid
  • Replace brake fluid (maybe at dealership)
Anything else I might be missing?
 
E,F.

The valve block is covered by a splash shield, with holes in it that you could access the shutter valve screws through, but if you're going to lubricate them, I'd take the shield off first.
 

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