Working FJ62 midlife maintenance headliner, frame rails & suspension (SLEP) (1 Viewer)

[nw_fj62]

Bought this PNW FJ62 in 2002 and we now have access to a garage for the first time in a decade+...

The key projects I want to address this winter are headliner replacement, frame rail scrub/treatment and suspension renew (likely new leafs and shocks).

Started on headliner today - and what a mess... Truck was originally purchased from Tenney dealership Lake City Way and first owner had a "professionally installed" sunroof added. Roof has leaked since I've owned the truck - despite various silicon sealing approaches. 36 years later - and opened up for the first time since - it does not look very professional with roofing screws, duck tape, and rust all around.... So plan is to remove all the aftermarket sunroof housing (leave the glass as a moonroof), remove all the hole-y original headliner and rebuild. It is a working (not show) truck, so planning to kilmat and use common headliner material & spray adhesive....

With headliner material removed, carpet-padding type gray material and yellow foam covered sunroof box

Son remove the aftermarket sunroof rails/tracks:

And toward end of the work session - sunroof box out, most insulation removed. Note all the rust lines where the sunroof retraction must have scratched the roof...

Suggestions and encouragement welcome.

 

[MarkBC]

While you have the headliner out do what you can to address any rust in the crevice around the perimeter which connects through to underneath the outside gutter rails. Clean out as much rust as you can from both inside (and blow crap out with a compressor) and outside and spray Eastwood frame saver rust paint from the inside. Some may seep through which is good. Then when you are happy and the paint all hardened up, apply caulking around the outside and then spray linseed oil around the inside in that crevice to stop any new rust from starting.

 

[Skniper]

What @MarkBC said ^^. I'd listen to a Canadian about rust remediation LOL.

He basically said it, but now is the perfect time to chip and grind out all of the factory rain gutter sealer around the roof looking for any and all signs of rust. After 30 years, none of our trucks roof seams are well sealed anymore.
With the headliner out you will never have better access to both sides of the roof seam...and have the ability to patch/weld new metal if needed. Lots of great threads on resealing the gutter with 3M, etc products.

Mine has roof bubbles because of failed sealer, I'm dreading getting that fixed. Our factory headliner is such a pain in the a$$!!

 

[MarkBC]

What @MarkBC said ^^. I'd listen to a Canadian about rust remediation LOL.

He basically said it, but now is the perfect time to chip and grind out all of the factory rain gutter sealer around the roof looking for any and all signs of rust. After 30 years, none of our trucks roof seams are well sealed anymore.
With the headliner out you will never have better access to both sides of the roof seam...and have the ability to patch/weld new metal if needed. Lots of great threads on resealing the gutter with 3M, etc products.

Mine has roof bubbles because of failed sealer, I'm dreading getting that fixed. Our factory headliner is such a pain in the a$$!!

This is what I did with mine and it's held up for 1 and a half monsoon seasons out in the weather with no signs of any rust returning.

 

[nw_fj62]

Thanks MarkBC - I'll definitely look at that seam. Have found a couple priority rust spots and have some POR-15 on order....

Spent the day with wire wheel cleaning the frame.

Found two rust-through holes I wasn't expecting - so some patching ahead on driver's floor.

And the rust around the after-market moonroof will need attention too

 

[SteveH]

Suggestions and encouragement welcome.

You're doing good work here. How will you affix the sunroof glass into the hole (if I understand your plans correctly) once the hardware is removed from the roof? You might consider welding a new metal slab in place, vs. trying to seal up the glass. Neither is easy or fun....

 

[nw_fj62]

Suggestions and encouragement welcome.

You're doing good work here. How will you affix the sunroof glass into the hole (if I understand your plans correctly) once the hardware is removed from the roof? You might consider welding a new metal slab in place, vs. trying to seal up the glass. Neither is easy or fun....

Living in the PNW, I really appreciate the moonroof overhead - so first pass will be to stabilize "convert" the rust and retain the moonroof. The main solution in recent years has been generous application of silicon to seal the top... As you suggest, putting in a replacement metal section is on the table as well....

 

[nw_fj62]

Making slow progress with only 4-6hrs a week to put into this project (could be 2028 before back on the road & trail)...

Have been working on kilmat (as sound deadening first step) and driver's side chassis rail - wire brush, metal prep and POR - section by accessible section... Removed the underbody spare to find most of the corrosion is here in the back (no surprise). There is a section of pretty serious rot on US driver's side far aft at rear leaf spring mounting point. There is a section of C-channel steel that is buckling and showing advanced deteriorating rust (layers open and flaky across)...

Any advice? I'm picturing that should come out and be replaced (I'm hoping for another 100K miles)... I'm picturing I can take out the spare time cross-member, but don't really have any experience with chassis repair...

I'm making some progress on interior ceiling with headliner out, and significantly removed much of the old insulation. I found this a useful guide for sound deadening approach : Intents (Australia) . Planning to add a close cell foam layer on top of this.


I've posted in mud classifieds, but not getting in responses, I'm seeing an additional roof support element (as seen in middle of this image). Sunroof installed cut out the one forward of this position. Welcome any leads on where I might find one...

 

[MarkBC]

Those are the C channels that rot out in all areas with road salt. You have to rip them out and replace. TRAIL TAILOR sells replacement sets. Removing the old ones is a major job, I am still working on mine.

 

[Cruisin']

As MarkBC mentioned changing the inner C channels is a bear of a job. I can't imagine trying to do it with the body on. They are riveted in, and grinding the heads off the rivets isn't enough, as they're squished into the holes of both the C and the main frame. I just changed my C channels and I had to grind the heads off, and used a torch to cut most of them out, though I was able to heat a few up enough to soften them and pound them out with a hammer and punch. When I reassembled it with the new C channels (which I made, rather than purchasing) I used grade 10.9 M10 bolts with serrated flanges on the bolts and nuts.

Another area to look at if you're getting into rust repair on the frame is the rear-most cross member. Its also a C within a C, and is likely growing thick with rust in between. That one is riveted and welded to the ends of the frame, and is welded together top and bottom. I had to cut out and replace a 5" x 18" section of both the inner and outer parts of the cross member.

Frame rust repair is a big job. Best done with the body off. I'm a ticketed welder so that makes it less daunting to me.

If you're interested in seeing pics of the process with mine my Instagram handle is @cruisin_off_road

 

[nw_fj62]

Jason - great truck and from your IG clear you are fully committed (the forklift is a tell). I'm renting now (with a garage!) and don't have space for a frame off full restore... (your shop space looks awesome). This truck has been literally put away wet for years (leak from sunroof) and the rust mainly looks manageable (except that c-channel). Thanks for encouragement - more fun ahead.

 

[onemanarmy]

I tackled my rusty rear C channels with the body on, and many others have too. Its a chore!

Lots of sharp drill bits, drill bit oil, punches, chisels, and muscles.

And eye and hearing protection.

 

[nw_fj62]

The winter rehab progressing and I'm ready to drive / explore in the next month (so time to button it back up)...

Truck back from our leading NW Cruiser specialist Torfab. They did the C-channel work and installed a new OME/Bilstein suspension. They also replaced shifter bushings, fuel filter and an air intake (cracked) hose. The truck runs and rides great.

After months of intermittent searching, Classic Cruisers had a roof support I needed (he commented that they are rarely ever sought out)...

So mainly need to finish interior sound deadening, replace carpets, replace front door speaks and re-seal the leaky sunroof.

I'd still like to swap the limited output IPF driving lights and replace the head unit (w/ bluetooth introduced 1998!).

 

[costahh]

The winter rehab progressing and I'm ready to drive / explore in the next month (so time to button it back up)...

Truck back from our leading NW Cruiser specialist Torfab. They did the C-channel work and installed a new OME/Bilstein suspension. They also replaced shifter bushings, fuel filter and an air intake (cracked) hose. The truck runs and rides great.

After months of intermittent searching, Classic Cruisers had a roof support I needed (he commented that they are rarely ever sought out)...

So mainly need to finish interior sound deadening, replace carpets, replace front door speaks and re-seal the leaky sunroof.

I'd still like to swap the limited output IPF driving lights and replace the head unit (w/ bluetooth introduced 1998!).

View attachment 2993108

How much did that run you for Torfab to do this. If you don't mind posting. Getting mine ride of rust and such and of course have the same rot in the C Channels and deciding if I want to tackle it or let someone else to.

 

[nw_fj62]

How much did that run you for Torfab to do this. If you don't mind posting. Getting mine ride of rust and such and of course have the same rot in the C Channels and deciding if I want to tackle it or let someone else to.

Torfab is a cruiser specialty service shop, involved in our regional TLC clubs and events and I've gone to them for service over 15yrs (on the rare occasion the truck needs something). Torfab » The NW destination for Land Cruisers parts and service, including complete one-off custom built Cruisers, maintenance, suspension, and expedition builds - https://torfab.com/

Their C-Channels section (parts) charge about the same as Trail-Tailor < C-Channel Kit 60 Series - https://trail-tailor.com/store/p172/C-Channel_Kit.html > and was installed with POR-15 on it. They charged me 4hrs labor of this part of the service.

I don't have access to a full lift, nor the expertise & tools to pull this off - so I was happy to have them do this element of the needed life-extension.

Good success