CV Axle and Transfer Case Leak (1 Viewer)

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Jan 3, 2021
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Hernando, Ms
I got a few leaks after spending the weekend off-roading. Can someone help me identify what needs to replaced/fixed?

Front drivers side CV Axle
20220104_150931.jpg


Transfer Case

20220103_164520.jpg


Transfer Case looking forward

20220104_151308.jpg



Any help with identification would be greatly appreciated.
 
OIL SEAL, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, LH: 9031147013

SEAL, OIL (TRANSFER EXTENSION FRONT HOUSING SUB-ASSY): 9031150014
That is only $30 worth of parts and probably twice that much in fluid. But what is the labor involved in all of this? I'm guessing I will need to put the CV and transfer case?
 
That is only $30 worth of parts and probably twice that much in fluid. But what is the labor involved in all of this? I'm guessing I will need to put the CV and transfer case?
Pull the CV and, unfortunately, drop the t-case. The problem with the front output seal on the t-case is that the extension housing has to come off the t-case to replace that seal, which when you look at it you’ll think you can just pop the housing off. But it’s deceiving - there’s actually not enough room because of the transmission.

Honestly, if that was my truck, I’d pour some AT-205 in the diff and t-case and see if that stops the leaks after a few hundred miles.
 
Pull the CV and, unfortunately, drop the t-case. The problem with the front output seal on the t-case is that the extension housing has to come off the t-case to replace that seal, which when you look at it you’ll think you can just pop the housing off. But it’s deceiving - there’s actually not enough room because of the transmission.

Honestly, if that was my truck, I’d pour some AT-205 in the diff and t-case and see if that stops the leaks after a few hundred miles.
Thanks for the advice I will give it a try.
 
Pull the CV and, unfortunately, drop the t-case. The problem with the front output seal on the t-case is that the extension housing has to come off the t-case to replace that seal, which when you look at it you’ll think you can just pop the housing off. But it’s deceiving - there’s actually not enough room because of the transmission.

Honestly, if that was my truck, I’d pour some AT-205 in the diff and t-case and see if that stops the leaks after a few hundred miles.
I also bought this vehicle a year ago and it now has 280K miles on it. I have done almost all the mods and maintenance myself since I got it. It seemed like a grocery getter when I drove it home, completely bone stock. Had one small rear drivers side axel leak so I pulled that out and replaced. But I am not comfortable with pulling the transmission out to replace a seal in the transfer case. And if I didn't mention it is a 2000 year model.
 
I also bought this vehicle a year ago and it now has 280K miles on it. I have done almost all the mods and maintenance myself since I got it. It seemed like a grocery getter when I drove it home, completely bone stock. Had one small rear drivers side axel leak so I pulled that out and replaced. But I am not comfortable with pulling the transmission out to replace a seal in the transfer case. And if I didn't mention it is a 2000 year model.
Not pulling the transmission. Puking the transfer case “t-case”.

It’s not super difficult to pull. Even easier if you grab a friend or bribe a mud member. But honestly, easy enough to fix, just a pain.
 
But I am not comfortable with pulling the transmission out to replace a seal in the transfer case. And if I didn't mention it is a 2000 year model.
T-case = transfer case. You have to pull the t-case, not the transmission, to replace the front output seal.
 
T-case = transfer case. You have to pull the t-case, not the transmission, to replace the front output seal.
Got my parts mixed up.

Since I am pulling the TRANSFER CASE should I go ahead and replace all the seals and bearings?
 
Got my parts mixed up.

Since I am pulling the TRANSFER CASE should I go ahead and replace all the seals and bearings?
That’s a rabbit hole that you may not want to go down unless you have legitimate reason for a full rebuild. How many miles on your 100? Replacing the front and rear output seals and output shaft bearings, along with the input seal, would probably be sufficient.

A full rebuild kit with new bearings, seals, and gaskets is around $500. You’ll need a press and some pricey special service tools (SST) to complete the job. If you want to install both high and low range underdrive gears, then I could understand wanting to do a full rebuild.
 

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