How's your 100 Series Body Lift? (2 Viewers)

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I Just installed a 1'' Body lift on my HDJ100. Was pretty straight forward with the luxlifts kit here in Australia. Just had to take out the radiator brackets and re drilled the mounting holes an inch lower. Lots of helpful info in this thread about that. One thing to mention that isn't talked about on this forum is the intercooler piping on the 1HDFTE is bolted to the chassis so must be unbolted from the frame before lifting the body. also the front ABS wire brackets in the engine bay had to be taken off to let the wires have some movement. Anymore than 1'' and they would break. Adjusted trans linkages and loosened the steering spline and let it slide out a tad. thats all there was to it for me. Happy days.

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Has anyone here replaced body mount bushings at the same time as putting in the pucks? Is it worth doing? I just got the 1” kit from trail tailor and I’m wondering if I should replace some rubber while I’m under there.

I am curious about this as well. Looking to replace a blown out body mount bushing that is in the #2 spot under the driver side foot well. I believe its part - 52203-60060

Seems like it kinda drops in there- if anyone has replaced this one (or any of the other bushings) while doing the I'd love to hear more about it.

:beer:

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I have the 1" from TT, but it's just sitting on my shelf. Fine looking parts, but I still need to stop being lazy about it. I keep putting it off so I don't have to remove the rear drawers.

Edit: in planning this out—anything particular you want to see? I don't mind trying to document it, but I don't remember to do it unless I have some sort of checklist. I'm hoping to do it inside this month, but it won't be this weekend.

A DIY would be very helpful we can add it to the FAQ
 
A DIY would be very helpful we can add it to the FAQ

Shoot, that'd be a tough one at this point. It's been installed for a little over a year now.

It's relatively straightforward though, and TT includes directions. The only notable hiccups were getting the extra body bolts out (in the LX, under the second row seats) and just going super easy up front to make sure that the wiring wasn't stretched and the shroud wouldn't cause problems. Working kind of slow (cautious), it took about a day to complete by myself.
 
Currently doing a 30 mm body lift on my 2006 with AHC. I bought 170 mm M10 bolts etc. However I don't think that they're quite long enough for the first body mount position at the very front underneath the battery. So the 30 mm spacers going to go on top of the body mount but on the bottom side there is this bushing ... In the photo. This goes on the bottom of the frame, and I'm wondering what it's function is other than providing some vibration dampening. Bolts are very difficult to find and take a long time to get in this size. So I'm thinking about just fabricating some spacers or using a aluminum spacer and lieu of this cushion? I need to squeeze about 10 mm in order to get the end of the bolt to come out far enough to put my locking nut on. Any ideas? Should I try and chop this thing in half? Just use an aluminum spacer? Or is this some kind of critical piece and I need to wait another week to get these longer bolts? The actual body mounts are in good shape and they're the part on top that supports the body against the frame, but these seem like they could be eliminated.

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Currently doing a 30 mm body lift on my 2006 with AHC. I bought 170 mm M10 bolts etc. However I don't think that they're quite long enough for the first body mount position at the very front underneath the battery. So the 30 mm spacers going to go on top of the body mount but on the bottom side there is this bushing ... In the photo. This goes on the bottom of the frame, and I'm wondering what it's function is other than providing some vibration dampening. Bolts are very difficult to find and take a long time to get in this size. So I'm thinking about just fabricating some spacers or using a aluminum spacer and lieu of this cushion? I need to squeeze about 10 mm in order to get the end of the bolt to come out far enough to put my locking nut on. Any ideas? Should I try and chop this thing in half? Just use an aluminum spacer? Or is this some kind of critical piece and I need to wait another week to get these longer bolts? The actual body mounts are in good shape and they're the part on top that supports the body against the frame, but these seem like they could be eliminated.

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I think you need that bushing. I kept them on. I went to Fastenal and ordered bolts, though you can move them around to spots where they fit and still use a bunch of the stock bolts.
 
I purchased mine with a handcrafted 1 3/4in body lift. I love it and it a head turner but the issues with it going over an inch has been biting me in the pocket and a few thousand bucks more. Even with the steering shaft linkage extension from flat out off-road it causing major stressors to other components elsewhere. The worst part no company will agree to make me a rear bumper otherwise I would of had a dissent or delta vs rear bumper on there. I definitely would like to bring it down to a inch and the guys at rpm and my Toyota master mechanic at Redlands Toyota said it would be wise to drop to an inch or under. Mainly I want to do it to get a bumper with swing outs.
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I purchased mine with a handcrafted 1 3/4in body lift. I love it and it a head turner but the issues with it going over an inch has been biting me in the pocket and a few thousand bucks more. Even with the steering shaft linkage extension from flat out off-road it causing major stressors to other components elsewhere. The worst part no company will agree to make me a rear bumper otherwise I would of had a dissent or delta vs rear bumper on there. I definitely would like to bring it down to a inch and the guys at rpm and my Toyota master mechanic at Redlands Toyota said it would be wise to drop to an inch or under. Mainly I want to do it to get a bumper with swing outs. View attachment 2836997

IDK if that full distance can be covered, but Mike at BIOR built a rear for me that covered the 1" BL. 100% the reason I bought his model, other vendors similarly disinterested in custom work.
 
IDK if that full distance can be covered, but Mike at BIOR built a rear for me that covered the 1" BL. 100% the reason I bought his model, other vendors similarly disinterested in custom work.
Also don’t want to lose the structural integrity of tow ratings due to body lift but to have an almost 2 inch body lift it too much wear and tear and preventative costs. Definitely want to drop to just an inch to save myself from getting new cv axels every year and half and just had to replace the whole steering links and shaft. Ben at dissent said if I drop down to the inch he would do it and make fillers after the install if the gap was an eyesore for me and I would retain the full tow rating of the LC as well as still having plenty of clearance for the 35 but with higher load rates springs I’d gain that lift back when I’d need to compensate for the load weight of the bumper.

Ben did tell me to talk to Mike at BIOR about fabricating the fillers if I had wanted to stay at my currently body lift height and nix the idea of being able to tow anything with the hitch and I could save some money. Still waiting to hear back from Delta VS if they can accommodate bl height adjustments and or if they have a hitch option for their bumpers.
 
I am debating 1/2" vs 1", I plan on putting on a 2.5" suspension lift, probably Dobinson IMS. With that suspension and a 1/2" BL, what is the biggest tire I could fit and still get full compression of my suspension?
 
I am debating 1/2" vs 1", I plan on putting on a 2.5" suspension lift, probably Dobinson IMS. With that suspension and a 1/2" BL, what is the biggest tire I could fit and still get full compression of my suspension?
Edit: Oh crap, I just realized I posted about this thinking it was a 200 body lift thread 🤦🏻‍♂️
They are similar, but I only had a 1” bl on my 100 and my tire size recommendation stays. Tall skinny 35”. I had cut much more for the 37’s I ran on my 100 including the outer fender. I did not have to mess with the body mount location on my 100, just lots of cutting of the inner fender/firewall.

200 related response: Not a definite answer here but I don’t think your suspension lift will make much difference on your tire size. The body lift will help a little for clearance at the top of the front fender and behind the tire just a little as it moves the arch of the inner fender up a little bit. I think a narrow 35” tire would be the max & the best IMO, before it requires more cutting of the pinch weld and modifications to the front cab body mount. If you’re running a LC, you’ll likely have to deal with the KDSS swaybar next. If it’s an LX, you’ll get a little more clearance at the swaybar.

If I was making a recommendation for BL height, I would always say 1” over a 1/2” since it’s all about the same effort. However, you may get away with manufactured bumpers and sliders w/o any noticeable gaps with only 1/2”. And you may be able to re-use factory bolts with only 1/2”. The radiator fan might even squeak by w/o any issue, so 🤷🏻‍♂️

Or you can just pick your desired tire size and bring a sawzall to the party 🤓
 
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IDK if that full distance can be covered, but Mike at BIOR built a rear for me that covered the 1" BL. 100% the reason I bought his model, other vendors similarly disinterested in custom work.
Coastal off-road has 3 options in their order page: no BL, 1” BL, 2” BL. I am surprised they have the 2” option as I would expect it to be a fairly rare BL on 100 series (my RIP 80 series had close to 2” BL).
 
Coastal off-road has 3 options in their order page: no BL, 1” BL, 2” BL. I am surprised they have the 2” option as I would expect it to be a fairly rare BL on 100 series (my RIP 80 series had close to 2” BL).
I would love to get rid of my 2 in BL on my 100 debating on taking it down a half or even a whole inch now but I am one the rare 100’s with a 2” in the states.
 
I would love to get rid of my 2 in BL on my 100 debating on taking it down a half or even a whole inch now but I am one the rare 100’s with a 2” in the states.
What tire size would you ultimately like to run?
 
I have another question, is there really any difference between using the UHWM and buying a $200 kit that has machine aluminum spacers?
 
I’d still keep my 35x17
Yeah, I’d try to drop down to a smaller BL then. No reason to raise your COG higher than necessary 👌🏼
If you thought you’d try to go to a 37”, then I’d say keep it.
 
I have another question, is there really any difference between using the UHWM and buying a $200 kit that has machine aluminum spacers?
I wouldn’t have any preference between the materials aside from I prefer black. No reason to draw attention to the spacer IMO.
 
Shoot, that'd be a tough one at this point. It's been installed for a little over a year now.

It's relatively straightforward though, and TT includes directions. The only notable hiccups were getting the extra body bolts out (in the LX, under the second row seats) and just going super easy up front to make sure that the wiring wasn't stretched and the shroud wouldn't cause problems. Working kind of slow (cautious), it took about a day to complete by myself.

How has your experience been with the 1" on the LX? Did you come across any issues? all you needed was the trail tailor kit no other mods to make this work?

I am looking at 1/2" vs 1".

Thanks!
 

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