Power Steering in 2021 (2 Viewers)

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I’ve got my Scout II box working. 1 finger through the spoke in the steering wheel to spin it while parked on dry pavement. And that’s with a pos pump that’s howling like a banshee. Part of the pump mount is missing so for now I’m using a ratchet strap to tension it.

With the new pump, I suspect I’ll be able to palm steer… especially while rolling. Although I’m only running 33x10.5 tires, I’m sure it’ll easily handle bigger tires. Although 33s are about the largest I plan to run. :D
 
I did FJ60 (sag pump) back in the day but since I run 38’s with a front locker I added hydro assist and a transmission cooler, filter and external reservoir to the system.

It’s beautiful. Drive great on the street and at 5 psi in the rocks. Never gets hot, pump never squeals. Always works.

As someone said here I added a pillow block bearing to my fj40 column instead of trying to source a fj55 column.
 
I did FJ60 (sag pump) back in the day but since I run 38’s with a front locker I added hydro assist and a transmission cooler, filter and external reservoir to the system.

It’s beautiful. Drive great on the street and at 5 psi in the rocks. Never gets hot, pump never squeals. Always works.

As someone said here I added a pillow block bearing to my fj40 column instead of trying to source a fj55 column.
No need for a pillow block:
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The po hacked the frt cross member and installed a sag box box out frt. I nursed it for a while, but I finally had the replace the cross member and repair the left frt frame rail. I then did scout steering with the ford shock tower and plow block. It works great & Drives great. Ive been running 36 & 35" tires with a ARB in frt with no issues. The 2nd scout install I wanted a cleaner setup. I never really liked the ford tower and pillow blk, so I did the bearing in the column, notched the shock tower and moved it back then reversed the shock pin. I didn't want to cut an opening in my new oem fenders to clearance for the box, so I made some stategic cuts and breaks in it and notched it for clearance. The scout/fj60/80 setup works well and is fairly easy to do. I think it's less evasive too. I havent driven it yet, but I expect no problems. Ill probably never do a sag box out frt again. Keep in mind they havent made a scout in 40 yrs.

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No need for a pillow block:

That is nice and definitely easier! I don’t think there was awareness of that solution back when I did mine around 2009.

As someone else said, scout/Astro/fj60/fj80 is nice from a “being less invasive perspective” and I would def do the same again.
I also get why folks like Saginaw when you can buy a weld in mount plate and a brand new steering box. Less fab time than modifying the frame and sleeving bolt holes for scout/Astro/fj60/80.

To each their own!
 
I can't find anywhere above where you gave your year model. If you consider a Saginaw conversion I can help on pricing, I have a lot of what you need in my ebay store (package deal available), and I can supply the original Downey Off Road Mfg. installation instruction manual. I have the gear box mounting plate, the steering drive shaft with u-joints, the firewall anchor plate and bearing if your's is 9/72-older model, and a righteous/trimable power steering hose kit.
Mine is a 01/72 so I might be sending you a message on price!
 
I did the Saginaw and it works perfectly. But now I'm working on an LM7 swap and have seen some folks having a clearance issue between the shaft and header. I guess it is all dependent on which headers are used. Not there yet, still collecting parts.
 
Let’s say you are swapping in a GM Vortec. Any problem running the 60 or 80 series box with the GM pump?
FWIW I run a sag pump on my 2F with the stock box without issue (38" Swampers)
 
Less fab time than modifying the frame and sleeving bolt holes for scout/Astro/fj60/80.

I would not say this is true, have you done both? Having done both I think a saginaw is far more invasive and triple the work time.
 
I would not say this is true, have you done both? Having done both I think a saginaw is far more invasive and triple the work time.

I agree with that. Having done both, 60 / 80 is much less intensive, cutting and welding wise. There is a lot of stuff to do for a Saginaw, but it works great for bigger tires.
 

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