General Maintenance - Fluids Change (1 Viewer)

[KZJ78Sasebo]

Hello

I have a few days off due to the holiday weekend (in the USA) and I want to do something productive and swap out all the fluids that I haven’t gotten around to ever since getting my KZJ78. I have a few questions and I want to ask help for those more experienced in these type of cases.

Fluid List:
Transmission: I want to use Valvoline Max Life (full synthetic), 15L capacity. Is this a good choice? I already switched to full synthetic (Rotella T6) for my engine.

Transfer Box: SAE 75W-90. 2.2L capacity. What is a good brand to go with?

Front/Rear Axles: 80W-90. About 4L (until full). What is a good gear oil to go with?

I’ve never done any of the above fluid changes before. Is there something based on your experience that I should be aware of? Do I need to buy any gaskets/bolts/washers to replace?

Based on other things I’ve done to the rig, I’ll be willing to bet the fluids above haven’t been changed in a good while. Other things that I intend on getting done this long weekend is spray my whole undercarriage with PB Surface Shield and finally fixing the “Toyota Lean” on my rear springs with the help of a Dobinsons 20mm spacer. Thank you for your time in reading this, I’d appreciate any advice you have. Have a great day and God bless.

Picture for attention.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

On brands, whatever is easiest to get.

One piece of advice I'd give is always remove the fill plug before the drain

 

[KZJ78Sasebo]

On brands, whatever is easiest to get.

One piece of advice I'd give is always remove the fill plug before the drain

Thank you! That’s the advice I got on a youtube video as well. I’ll be sure to do that

 

[Lomoski]

In terms of brands of oil, I'm sure everyone has their favorite, but I buy whatever is on sale at Canadian Tire and matches the right weight and API ratings etc. I think following proper intervals is more important than a specific brand. Again doing regular changes with a semi or non synthetic is going to be more beneficial than a synthetic that goes over its reccomended interval.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Do I need to buy any gaskets/bolts/washers to replace?

You could buy the seals that go under the drain plugs. I often reuse them. If they do need to be changed they don't have to make/model specific. Any well know brand of lubricants will do.
I usually undo all the drain plugs, so I get the maximum amount of old oil out. Obviously you will need a couple of extra drain buckets.
Be prepared for a spillage.
Know the torque specs for the drain plugs if you are not confident of guessing them, I just guess them. If there is any seepage, give them another half turn .

I think they drain better with the front slightly elevated.

 

[Felde]

You might need a pump to fill the axles and Tcases. The filling holes are usually located in a position where you neither can pour from the container nor use a funnel.
Sometimes the drain plugs of the tcase are covered by skidplates. There might be a hole in the skidplate to reach the drain plug. But don't try this!
The oil comes out in a bow, fails the hole, hits the skidplate from the top and makes big mess.
Happened to me on my first oil change.
Take the skidplate off.

 

[KZJ78Sasebo]

You might need a pump to fill the axles and Tcases. The filling holes are usually located in a position where you neither can pour from the container nor use a funnel.
Sometimes the drain plugs of the tcase are covered by skidplates. There might be a hole in the skidplate to reach the drain plug. But don't try this!
The oil comes out in a bow, fails the hole, hits the skidplate from the top and makes big mess.
Happened to me on my first oil change.
Take the skidplate off.

Thank you! I do have a manual pump that I’ll use to get the fluids into their respective places. I honestly have to find where the transfer case is lol I’ve searched for videos and I only find ones for the 80 series LC so I’ll search in that general area. I also need to see where the ATF goes and the drain plug locations. I haven’t done it for any vehicle

 

[Lomoski]

So the transfer case is on the drivers side (R) of the transmission my truck has a little rinky dink skid plate covering it. Remove the big plastic guard to get to the transmission and the metal skid plate to get to the transfer case. You'll see two drive shafts coming out of it front and rear.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I’ve searched for videos and I only find ones for the 80 series LC so I’ll search in that general area

The transfer case is the smaller bit with the 2 drive shaft flanges. All the Toyota 4wd t/cases are similar. This is attached to a manual transmission. The filler plugs in the diffs, gearbox and transfer case is the upper level. When it begins to overflow, it is full. The vehicle should be roughly level.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I'm a big fan of Redline Synthetic for manual transmissions, transfer cases, and differentials. You do have to be somewhat careful with older manual transmissions as you want a GL4 spec'd oil and not a GL5. Redline MT-90 is good for the transmission. Their 75W-90 gear oil is what I use in the transfer case and differentials. Obviously lots of good synthetic oils out there but, again, double check the specification on whatever you put in the transmission.

 

[clintnz]

There is one 'special tool' that can save a lot of hassle doing gear oils in a Toyota: a 24mm socket that has been ground or machined down to remove the internal chamfer at the business end. Usually the diffs, t-case & trans all have cheesy low profile heads on the bungs & are very easy to round off.

Cheers
Clint

 

[Felde]

There is one 'special tool' that can save a lot of hassle doing gear oils in a Toyota: a 24mm socket that has been ground or machined down to remove the internal chamfer at the business end. Usually the diffs, t-case & trans all have cheesy low profile heads on the bungs & are very easy to round off.

Cheers
Clint

Yes, that helps, if the plug is really seized. I however don't get why apparently so many people have a hassel with seized plugs.
There is only one reason I believe is unavoidable: Smashed drain plugs due to diffs hitting the ground when offroading. Here only a diff skidplate helps.

Actually the plugs should be torqued quite little only (e.g. 27Nm on TCase) and on regular maintenance intervals they shouldn't seize.
I think people are often overdoing the plugs as they fear or experience leaks.
Mainly because they reuse the gaskets. In particular the old fashioned copper gasket rings are designed to deform on thigthtening. They are absolutely not designed to be reused and require more torque, if you do so.
A gasket made from PTFE (Viton) or a tiny bit of sealant (e.g. Hylomar blue) helps better than more torque. The PTFE gaskets can be reused as those flex. They also seal better than the copper gaskets. And if a plug head shows a sign of deformation: Replace it ! For the sake of the next time you need to undo it.

So, my advice to @KZJ78Sasebo is:
Have some new drainplug gaskets at hand and inspect your plugs prior to the procedure. Get new ones, if needed. It's just cheap stuff.
Drainplugs are available without magnet (for filler hole) and with magnet (drain hole).
Cheers Ralf

 

[clintnz]

Yes, that helps, if the plug is really seized. I however don't get why apparently so many people have a hassel with seized plugs.
There is only one reason I believe is unavoidable: Smashed drain plugs due to diffs hitting the ground when offroading. Here only a diff skidplate helps.

Actually the plugs should be torqued quite little only (e.g. 27Nm on TCase) and on regular maintenance intervals they shouldn't seize.
I think people are often overdoing the plugs as they fear or experience leaks.
Mainly because they reuse the gaskets. In particular the old fashioned copper gasket rings are designed to deform on thigthtening. They are absolutely not designed to be reused and require more torque, if you do so.
A gasket made from PTFE (Viton) or a tiny bit of sealant (e.g. Hylomar blue) helps better than more torque. The PTFE gaskets can be reused as those flex. They also seal better than the copper gaskets. And if a plug head shows a sign of deformation: Replace it ! For the sake of the next time you need to undo it.

So, my advice to @KZJ78Sasebo is:
Have some new drainplug gaskets at hand and inspect your plugs prior to the procedure. Get new ones, if needed. It's just cheap stuff.
Drainplugs are available without magnet (for filler hole) and with magnet (drain hole).
Cheers Ralf

I have never been lucky enough to see a 90's 4wd with the holy combination of regular maintenance, correctly torqued fasteners & unabused diff housings
Even my lady's 2017 Subaru that I recently did the very first diff oil change on had some very tight bungs straight from the factory.

I've also had good results with a smear of Loctite 518 when I've had to re-use a copper washer.

Cheers
Clint

 

[Helocrazed]

This is what I reference. I get all of the stuff at a local Toyota Parts store here in Okinawa. Assuming that you’re still in Sasebo, I would search out your local Toyota parts store an give them the list. ..

Lubricants & Capacities 1KZT Engine 3.0 Ltr Turbo



Engine 1KZT Oil: SAE 10W-40 API CF/4 7.7 ltrs



ATM Fluid: Dex II (Valv Max Life seems fine) 15 ltrs



Transfer Box: SAE 75W-90 API GL-4/5 2.2 ltrs



Front Axle:



with ADD: SAE 75W-90 API GL-4/5 1.9 ltr



without ADD: SAE 80W-90 API GL-4/5 2.0 ltr



Rear Axle:



with Diff Lock/Standard: SAE 80W-90 API GL-4/5 1.9 ltr



Limited Slip Diff: Hypoy LSD 90 LSD API GL5/6 1.8 ltr



Power Steering: Dex 11/111 0.8 ltr



Brakes SAE J1703/4 DOT 3/4 1.2 ltr



Prop Shaft Universal Joints Lithium Base NLGI No. 2