1996 Land Cruiser EV Conversion - EVJ80 Project (1 Viewer)

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Yes the first battery is going under the hood then any more batteries can go in all the other now empty spaces under the chassis. Or hell why not on a roof rack too?

This photo shows the truck how it is now pretty much with all the ICE stuff completely removed. Fuel lines, gas tank, exhaust, etc etc. It's never going back at this point!

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Really cool thread!
@J1000 Do you have an background on working on EVs?
I am also curious about how you will be mounting the batteries in the engine bay so there is little dust / water ingress
Working on them yes but I'm just a hobbyist.

I will build a steel framed box and weld it together and probably rivet aluminum panels to the sides sealed with silicone. that's what I can come up with as a low cost and relatively low weight but safe option. I will hopefully make it bolt up to the stock motor mounts and have a hook on top or something so I can lift it in and out with an engine hoist.
 
I finished up the battery stack today and all the BMS wiring. It was not nearly as bad as I was anticipating and it came together nicely. I'm really happy with the result. Now I just need to build a battery box to hold it. I am using the stock Nissan LEAF BMS but in a new configuration so the BMS wires had to be modified, some shortened some lengthened.

Half the BMS wires hooked up:

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The rest:

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Showing the correct voltage!

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Plastic cover installed:

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The little silver things are the temperature sensors.

Now I can hit those rock climbs at full send knowing my battery is safe and sound and all the wiring nice and neat.
 
Can we stick to tech
NO!
On the basis you reference Joe Rogan's 80 in your sig.
edit:AND your penchant for the gold package.
 
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I know leaf batteries had an issue with thermal control shortening the life and range of the pack. Any thoughts on temp management on them?

Also do not throw a pack on the rack. Keep that weight as low as possible.
 
I had a crazy thought while I was running today. What if you mounted a generator, say low on a rear bumper swing arm, could you theoretically charge while off grid? Or, would this overload/ overheat your system? Also, I know you were just being hypothetical but I don’t think putting batteries on the roof would be a good plan in the unlikely event of a rollover seems like a good way to cause a short and start a fire. Like always enjoy seeing the progress and can’t wait to see it move under its own power again.
 
Amazing build, you’re skills are great!

Looking at how much room you’ve liberated underneath the truck, plus if you had a rear swing out tire carrier, you could extend the range by fitting two more battery packs.

The EV equivalent of a Long Ranger fuel tank 😉

Good luck 👍
 
Is your drive shaft between the transfer case and motor fixed to one end or the other? If it is "floating" between the two it will tend to wander to one end based on gravity or torque and may tear up stuff or create bad vibrations.

Just asking, as I cannot tell from the pics.

As I am not a spark chaser, I am very impressed with your methodology that you are approaching this.

Does the electric motor setup have "engine braking" type capability or does it just go into freewheel? This may put additional strain on the braking system and you may have instances of overheating the brakes if they may not get the additional help from the "engine braking" on the trail.

Excellent concept! Keep up the great details and information!
 
As stated by a few others, I've been waiting for someone to do this. It was only a matter of time. When Ford unveiled their EV crate motor a few weeks ago (weeks, months? Idk, whatever) this was my first thought. I doubt I will go down this road but kudos to you for being bold enough to wing it and try something truly creative. I, like many here, have my doubts about an EV getting me to remote places but that's really just a reflection of the current technology. As things progress and we invent new, more energy-dense power sources things will change. The mechanical simplicity of an EV is hard to argue with. Few moving parts compared to an ICE set up.
 
I know leaf batteries had an issue with thermal control shortening the life and range of the pack. Any thoughts on temp management on them?

Also do not throw a pack on the rack. Keep that weight as low as possible.
Yes also they are just generally lower quality because they are a cheaper car. The early ones are worse than the later ones. I would like to have active water cooling and use it as cabin heat but I'm not sure if it's even worth it. I used to have a LEAF and really the battery didn't get above 100F that often if ever. Lithium batteries are actually in their happy place at 94-98F and produce the most power/can charge the fastest at that temp. In AZ and hot climates LEAFs suffer badly but not as much otherwise. It also helps that LEAFs are only 80kw (100hp). The least powerful Tesla has almost 3 times that power.

A roof rack battery would be the last pack after all the other spots are used up. It's probably on par with a RTT or all the other crap people throw up there!
I had a crazy thought while I was running today. What if you mounted a generator, say low on a rear bumper swing arm, could you theoretically charge while off grid? Or, would this overload/ overheat your system? Also, I know you were just being hypothetical but I don’t think putting batteries on the roof would be a good plan in the unlikely event of a rollover seems like a good way to cause a short and start a fire. Like always enjoy seeing the progress and can’t wait to see it move under its own power again.
Totally do-able and not only that but I will probably bring a generator along "just in case" for the first few runs.
Amazing build, you’re skills are great!0

Looking at how much room you’ve liberated underneath the truck, plus if you had a rear swing out tire carrier, you could extend the range by fitting two more battery packs.

The EV equivalent of a Long Ranger fuel tank 😉

Good luck 👍
Thanks, I really am a novice welder and fabricator but have watched experts closely while holding pieces for them to tack :) so a little bit has been rubbed off I think. I also binge watch YouTube automotive fabricators and try to pick up their tricks. There is lots of room for more batteries. The harder part will be wiring them in to the HV circuit safely and reliably.
Is your drive shaft between the transfer case and motor fixed to one end or the other? If it is "floating" between the two it will tend to wander to one end based on gravity or torque and may tear up stuff or create bad vibrations.

Just asking, as I cannot tell from the pics.

As I am not a spark chaser, I am very impressed with your methodology that you are approaching this.

Does the electric motor setup have "engine braking" type capability or does it just go into freewheel? This may put additional strain on the braking system and you may have instances of overheating the brakes if they may not get the additional help from the "engine braking" on the trail.

Excellent concept! Keep up the great details and information!
No the driveshaft is floating. There is about 1/4" of play back and forth and the motor and t-case input are as close to perfectly lined up as I can manage. The driveshaft builder told me to set it up this way. There is also a bit of grease packed in on either side. I won't really know how it will behave until I start driving it but I'm prepared for anything even horrible failure lol.
The brown car, next to the batteries with the shifter on the dash....what is that?
It is my 1982 Unique Mobility Electrek. It is a fiberglass monocoque with VW Rabbit suspension/brakes and a GE electric motor. It was the first production car with regenerative braking and it's super ugly. They only built 60 of them or so in Englewood, CO about 1 mile from my shop! Carroll Shelby was on their board of directors and drove them around when he was living in CO. I am restoring it on my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/UniqueMobility
As stated by a few others, I've been waiting for someone to do this. It was only a matter of time. When Ford unveiled their EV crate motor a few weeks ago (weeks, months? Idk, whatever) this was my first thought. I doubt I will go down this road but kudos to you for being bold enough to wing it and try something truly creative. I, like many here, have my doubts about an EV getting me to remote places but that's really just a reflection of the current technology. As things progress and we invent new, more energy-dense power sources things will change. The mechanical simplicity of an EV is hard to argue with. Few moving parts compared to an ICE set up.
Yeah I am pretty much just winging it haha. Perfection is the enemy of good and all that. I also think it's cool for the reasons you mentioned and good for a project car, not for a daily driver. After all, I am going to be towing this to the trail with my V8 Cruiser at 9 MPG haha!
 
Jeez this battery box is ridiculous. I may be over-building it by using 3/16" steel but damn it's going to be sturdy! It's a 36x20x15 inch box. The pictures basically tell the story:

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It's going to fit!! The A/C has got to go. I could probably keep it with some slight mods but in the end it will just be easier and better for the EV side of things to ditch it. Oh well. Thanks @DomOfTheDead for the critical precision eyeballing!
 
There appears to be lots of room on the passenger side? Can't fab up a electric powered AC compressor mount?
There is room for the compressor, but I need the 1/2" on the firewall where the AC line goes through. I have an electric AC compressor from the LEAF I was going to try to plumb in to the stock FZJ80 AC system but that was overly ambitious anyway.
 
This is a really fascinating read, thanks for posting.

Hypothetically, if one was to convert a manual transmission vehicle, could the functionality of the gearbox be retained somehow?
 
This is a really fascinating read, thanks for posting.

Hypothetically, if one was to convert a manual transmission vehicle, could the functionality of the gearbox be retained somehow?
Yes, though I don't think you'd really need to use it that much. Electric motors go well beyond the 5k rpms we redline at
 

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