Those Firewall Heater Hoses (1 Viewer)

[e21pilot]

I was thinking of replacing the coolant in my '95 before my next long trip up North. The cooling hoses and the rad look pretty good at this point but there are few hoses with some strange factory hose clamps at the back of the engine near the firewall that look a little stressed. I assume these are the original hoses with 25+ years on them and 180K miles as well. Wondering if there is a good thread on replacement after market hoses for these (I assume OE is not available anymore) and what to do that get those clamps off and what to replace them with. I have replaced the PHH already but wonder if there are any other hoses in the back area of the engine I should consider replacing at this time.

 

[davidp14]

Pretty sure replacements are still available but you'll need to drop the transmission to get to them.
This is why deleting the entire system is a popular alternative.
I believe a few mudders have successfully used gates heater hose without dropping tranny.
There's quite a lot on rear heater hoses here. You'll need to decide if you really want to keep the heater or not first and then go for there.

I deleted mine but I live in the south and have about 60 days of actual winter so it was an easy decision for me.

 

[SaturnAscends]

The curved heater hose kit from Witsend will include those AFAIK. You might as well order the little hose and radiator hose kits while you're at it.

Also make sure to order an OEM heater control valve and coolant tee as well.

 

[lp2k]

Hey there- I just did this. So all of this you can get from wits end which is the black valve that flaps open for the rear heater. The straight hoses are 5/8, you can get them at the local auto store and cut to size. just match them up to the ones you are removing. May need a pvc or rubber hose cutter if you want a clean cut.

I did an upgrade with gates green stripe and had to use the constant torque type clamps so just a fyi if you go that route. The OEM clamps you have, with the cotter pin, you have to sort of unwind it once and then pull the pin out and unwind it all the way. Oh and you have to drain the coolant so if you had plans to replace the thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, might as well. There is also a bypass which wits end sells

 

[SaturnAscends]

Pretty sure replacements are still available but you'll need to drop the transmission to get to them.
This is why deleting the entire system is a popular alternative.
I believe a few mudders have successfully used gates heater hose without dropping tranny.
There's quite a lot on rear heater hoses here. You'll need to decide if you really want to keep the heater or not first and then go for there.

I deleted mine but I live in the south and have about 60 days of actual winter so it was an easy decision for me.

What would you have to drop the transmission for? Are you talking about the metal rear heater lines?

 

[davidp14]

Yes. I thought that's what he was asking about.

 

[lp2k]

Honestly- I’m more worried about your primary heater firewall hoses. Those hoses on your rig look really swollen. Here is what gates green strip with constant torque clamps look like

 

[SaturnAscends]

Yes. I thought that's what he was asking about.

Oh I thought he just meant the curved heater hoses behind the EGR

 

[davidp14]

I think you're right. My bad.


@e21pilot:
Do what these guys said. I used a one piece bypass hose from LCP. I replaced the HCV and elbow that goes to phh too.

 

[simple]

Oh and you have to drain the coolant so if you had plans to replace the thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, might as well. There is also a bypass which wits end sells

I'm sure this repair has been discussed a million times but it seems to me you don't "have to drain the coolant" for this fix. You lose like a cup of coolant replacing this valve at most. Agree that those straight sections of hose are standard easy to source. Curved are the expensive ones.

 

[clx16]

Make your life easy and use some sil-glyde or silicon dialectic grease to slip all back together

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Make your life easy and use some sil-glyde or silicon dialectic grease to slip all back together

soapy water works, too...

 

[clx16]

I have had trouble getting hoses off later though when using soapy water. Of course if I did the work right the first time it shouldn't be an issue later anyway right?.

 

[manofthewoods]

I was thinking of replacing the coolant in my '95 before my next long trip up North. The cooling hoses and the rad look pretty good at this point but there are few hoses with some strange factory hose clamps at the back of the engine near the firewall that look a little stressed. I assume these are the original hoses with 25+ years on them and 180K miles as well. Wondering if there is a good thread on replacement after market hoses for these (I assume OE is not available anymore) and what to do that get those clamps off and what to replace them with. I have replaced the PHH already but wonder if there are any other hoses in the back area of the engine I should consider replacing at this time.

View attachment 2826959

A few weeks ago when my engine and transmission were out I did all cooling system hoses. I spend winter days in Montana so I did rear heater hoses too
OEM is available for some, but not all. I used gates 1/2 where needed. For 5/8 I purchased a few extra OEM pieces and cut to length.
Hopefully, it will last past my expiration date.

 

[zapatius]

If your rear heater hard lines are rusty, now is a good time to buy the bypass hose from Wit's End to bypass your rear heat.

And, since no one else as said it: While you're in there, you might as well go ahead and do the head gasket (just kidding - seems like every maintenance discussion goes there).

 

[davidp14]

If your rear heater hard lines are rusty, now is a good time to buy the bypass hose from Wit's End to bypass your rear heat.

And, since no one else as said it: While you're in there, you might as well go ahead and do the head gasket (just kidding - seems like every maintenance discussion goes there).

Sage advice.

 

[SaturnAscends]

If your rear heater hard lines are rusty, now is a good time to buy the bypass hose from Wit's End to bypass your rear heat.

And, since no one else as said it: While you're in there, you might as well go ahead and do the head gasket (just kidding - seems like every maintenance discussion goes there).

I change my head gasket every other oil change as PM, just to feel warm and fuzzy inside

 

[FMC80]

Make your life easy and use some sil-glyde or silicon dialectic grease to slip all back together

Is it weird I’m curiously aroused after reading this? Carry on

 

[LINUS]

Make your life easy and use some sil-glyde or silicon dialectic grease to slip all back together

I‘m not out to pick a arguement, but I learned the hard way as a kid this leads to hoses popping loose when the system warms & pressure builds.
Luckily it was Summer & I was doing shakedown on a major rework of a VW Corrado - there was a rib on the rad nipple & I cranked a stout Gates clamp to the point it was ready to strip.

Just couldn’t get the damn Syl-Glide to un-lube & decided my ‘smart guy’ move wasn’t so smart.

It repeatedly happened with a lower main hose to the rad & the silicone soaked the rubber so the real fix ended up buying new rubber & acetone the radiator nipple.

That’s just my experience.

soapy water works, too...

bingo, that or just spit & rub…….yeah, yeah.

But srsly, that’s what I ended up liking over my silicone lube debacle / won’t ever do again.

Also @e21pilot - have you done the PHH?

-Another vote to get a comprehensive setup of hoses & a heater valve from @NLXTACY (hoping he has stock / current shipping troubles at the ports)?

You are on borrowed time seeing all those roll-pin clamps on the firewall, and the PHH is a time-bomb if it’s still OEM.

HTH

 

[clx16]

Yeah i was worried about them coming back off too however the only time i have an issue is with those screw type hose clamps. I have broken a few just trying to get them to stay on or keep a seal. I have found that i haven't had any issue with the spring type from Toyota or the screw wire type of older generations.

I hope this doesnt jinx me.

Is it weird I’m curiously aroused after reading this? Carry on

Oh yeah.. well let us know if it works in those other situations as well! Haha